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Thread: Circular saw, router guide

  1. #1
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    Circular saw, router guide

    I use to work out in the "field" ............
    No I did not pick cotton ........
    No I did not plant corn ....Don't get me wrong, I love our Mom and Pop farmers, (sadly said as we lose them too regularly).

    The "field" is a place where you go to do work away from a home base.
    In the late 70's, 80's, and early 90's most of my work was out in the "Field".
    This jig was the perfect tool for cross cutting plywood without a table saw, or just cutting off the last 2" of a 4'x8' piece even with a table saw at your disposal. I have used the concept for cutting diagonals and drop cuts. It has been used during my solid surface phase, and now more reguarly use in cutting face plates for audio video components.

    Here is the before and after photo of the console/credenza with the adding of the "plate around the face", correctly stated the faceplate around the components.



    The jig used here was with a router but the concept is the same. It's construction can be found in the thread "Plate around the face" here in jigs and fixtures. In this thread I will show you the simple making of a straight edge for the circular saw.

    I feel fortunate to have had the opportunity to work with some very skilled craftsmen who took pride in their work and were willing to share.

    I truely believe we need make our own jigs if possible.
    I like making my own jigs because understanding the way they are made allows me to modify them for multi purposes, besides, I make things with wood and why should I buy something I should MAKE!
    Since the 70's I have probably made jigs using this CONCEPT... 35 to 70 times. I made two in the last week, one for a little 4 1/2" worm drive Rockwell and one for the trim router.
    Shaz
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  2. #2
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    First things first
    A. What tool do you need the fence for?
    B. How long is the longest cut to satisfy your need?
    Material needed.... it varies, I usually use a 1/4" bottom and a 1/2" or 3/4" straight edge. On the job to use it you will need two clamps or screws will work.
    As you become familiar with the jig you will refine it to meet your needs.
    The first photo is a picture of the tool of choice for this straightedge fence.
    Attachment 10694
    This second photo shows an important measurement. It is the distance from the edge of the blade to the edge of the saw's base plate. ( that edge of the saw's base plate will be one of the determining factors to a straight line.)
    Attachment 10695
    It is about 3 11/16" plus or minus an inch.
    When measuring this, accuracy is not that crucial. You may think ...whoa, whoha , "one place you say important and then step up and say accuracy is not crucial? Get you stuff together!!!!!!!!" Let us move forward.
    Shaz
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Clardy View Post
    Hey Shaz. What are you doing with my PC trim saw
    Hi Steve,

    Sweet little tool..."You used to have!"
    So you have one of these old little beauties too. Do you use it much?
    Shaz
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  4. #4
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    The saw is a nice light weight saw and great with a carbide blade.
    The jig we will be making will be made for this saw but my first jigs were for my 7 1/4" rockwell. It is not the saw but the concept that is important.

    We will need two pieces of wood.
    The first will be 1/4" and about 36" long ( the length is determined by the size of the longest length you need to cut.) This will be the bottom piece. Looking at the second photo in post #2 you see my measurement of about 3 11/16" give or take. The left edge of the saw's base plate will be running along a straight edge. In making this jig our 1/4" piece of plywood needs to be ( let us say for safety sake) 4" plus the width of a straight edge.
    In this photo I am using the joiner to straighten a piece of pine to be used for the straight edge. It is about 5/8" thick, about 3" wide and longer than the 1/4" piece by about 12" would be a good choice.
    Attachment 10740
    The width of this straight edge and the 4 inches we talked about earlier will be the minimum width for the 1/4". Let us say then the 1/4" needs be 7 1/2" wide. This next photo shows the 4" mark where the straight edge will be nailed.
    Attachment 10741
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  5. #5
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    With our 4" marks marked on the 1/4" ply we set about to nail the straight edge to the 1/4" from the bottom side, 4" from the edge,( or set in to the marks on the 1/4" plywood)
    Attachment 10763
    Attachment 10764
    Attachment 10765
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  6. #6
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    Now that the basics have been done the simple magic begins to unfold. Take the two piece saw guide and
    Attachment 10921
    set up the tablesaw fence to rip off the excess (not always necessary) ,you will learn to decide.
    Then using your designated saw, running it along the straight edge, cut the 1/4" plywood.
    Attachment 10922
    The whole time you are cutting this piece ( it can be your jig for this saw, with this blade, til death do you part ) make sure you are running the left edge of your circular saw bottom plate tightly against the straight edge, which has been nailed to the 1/4" plywood.
    Attachment 10923.
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  7. #7
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    Having the 1/4" plywood cut with the saw of choice, in this case it was a tiny saw, but nevertheless, I now have a jig that I can use with great precision.
    Attachment 10933
    For example, I now know that if I set my jig on some plywood with the edge of that jig splitting the marks (if you make marks thick enough to split with a saw ) clamp it and cut, my cut can be tablesaw perfect "out in the field" everytime. This is the concept for the jig I have used the most over the years.
    Shaz
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  8. #8
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    Thanks for the write-up, Shaz. I can think of a number of occasions something like that would be real useful.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  9. #9
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    Shaz,

    Nice, simple but useful. Have you ever put some thin soft rubber on the bottom to make it kinda "non slip"?

    Thanks for posting this jig...look forward to the next one....

    Oh...that is one cool looking little saw!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    Thanks for the write-up, Shaz. I can think of a number of occasions something like that would be real useful.
    Thanks Vaughn, as you know all we can do is put it out there and imagine someone can receive it. "Useful? YES, Once you try it you won't go back!!!" (Back to what? I don't know but when I wrote it it sure sounded good. ) S
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Cook View Post
    Shaz,

    Nice, simple but useful. Have you ever put some thin soft rubber on the bottom to make it kinda "non slip"? Matter of fact Greg, no I haven't. Every time I use a jig like this I clamp it tightly so that it can't move as I am looking for an exact cut. The non slip comes from 210lbs of raw, unadulterated he-man torque, the kind most men and big women too will back away from just to witness the awesome clampdown power. And if that ain't enough I WILL use a cheater bar on it, or a 2" pony squeeze clamp!! S

    Thanks for posting this jig...look forward to the next one....

    Oh...that is one cool looking little saw!
    Thanks very much Greg. I am hoping this little tutorial will be appreciated by the lurkers too. It is simple, accurate, handmade and a real problem solver. You are so considerate to offer your input. Lurkers don't seem to understand the importance of even just a "atta boy" in a forum like this.??
    Shaz
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