New Cross Cut Sled - Finally Done!

Sean Wright

Member
Messages
902
Location
WNY, Buffalo Area
I set about making a cross cut sled, and I am almost done. I "borrowed" :D some ideas from here. Thanks for the good Ideas Glenn ! :thumb: :thumb:
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3370

I also added some things that I thought might be handy.
Some extras that I added are:
-Adjustable front and rear fences - this made squaring up the fence very easy - swiped this one from Glenn :D

-Handles - so I don't have to grab the fence possibly throwing it out of square.

-T-Track in the fence - for use with a stop block for repeated cuts.

-Zero Clearance Insert for standard blade & Dado use - another swipe :D

-T-Track mounted into the sled for integrated material clamping up to 8 1/4in widths. This can be extended in the future if the need arises.

-The clamping blocks are built with a lip that over hangs the edge of the sled to keep them from twisting when they are tightened down.

-If you flip the clamping blocks over they can be set as guides to allow for mitered cuts.

Not an extra, but a very good idea, I put the runners in the miter slots with double stick carpet tape on them, then butted the sled up against the TS fence and lowered it on to the tape & runners. Thanks again, Glenn.:wave:

I have already started waxing the bottom and runners. The only thing left is to attach the ZCI to the sled.

Edit:
Materials Used:
sled - 3/4in birch ply
fences - pine (milled down from a 4x4)
clamping blocks - white oak
stop block - 3/4in birch ply
ZCI - 1/4in birch ply
T-Track & knobs - from Rockler
Toilet bolts - used in fences and with T-track
 

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Very nice job, Sean. I like the hold-downs. (My smaller sled has the t-track on the front fence like yours...very handy.) BTW, it's not swiping...it's borrowing ideas. ;) I can say that, because I've swiped...er...borrowed a few of Glenn's ideas, too. :D
 
mitre setup?

hey sean have youhad achance to try out the mitre part with setting it up from the speed square? just curious as to how well its does on the mitres? other than that i like yur sled alot and might be doing something similar in the future:thumb:
 
hey sean have youhad achance to try out the mitre part with setting it up from the speed square? just curious as to how well its does on the mitres? other than that i like yur sled alot and might be doing something similar in the future:thumb:

Thanks everyone!

I haven't had a chance to cut anything on it yet. I still have to get the inserts attached....only so many hours in the day. :doh:

What I was thinking about doing for the miters, was to make something along the lines of a block that over hangs the edge of the sled (attached to the end of the guides). It would be at a predetermined angle (like 22 1/2, 30, or 45) so that when it is tight against the side of the sled it will keep the miter guides from twisting. I'm not sure if that makes any sense to anyone, as I find it hard to explain the concept.

I have a CMS already so I'm not in a big hurry to get miter portion done. I set up the picture mostly to show the potential capability of the sled.

When I get the insert in, I will give it a few test runs.

Future enhancement: :rolleyes:
I was also thinking about adding a box joint jig, attached to the T-Track in the fence, used with a dado stack. With it being attached to the T-Track, that would allow for great deal of adjustability.
 
Sean, that is sweet. I've always meant to go back and cut handles in mine to avoid the 'fence grab' as you describe. I've never gotten to it. Thanks for shaming me into motion on this.

As far as borrowing ideas, that's why we're here. Glad something I posted helped others. Believe me I borrow liberally from anybody who is willing to share. A sled is one of my most used jigs and has saved time and money well in excess of what they took to build.
 
Additional Enhancement Idea

In building this sled I was looking to make an all purpose sled. I didn't want to make it too big, as to be a pain to use. Essentally with the materials I had I could have made it deep but some what narrow or wide but not able to cut deeper pieces.

I have been thinking about how to extend the lenght at which the stop block can be used for repeated cuts. Currently it maxes out at 12in to the right of the blade. I built the sled with more capacity to cut wider pieces (up to 24in), than stops for longer pieces.

So what I am thinking of doing is taking a long piece(at least 3 1/2ft long) of white oak, ripping it down to about an 1in wide. Then gluing a block on the end creating sort of an "L" shape. Then drilling 1/4in holes every 6 to 8in. The holes would allow for me to use 2 or more T bolts/star knobs to hold it in place, against the T-Track in the fence. This would let me adjust the stop to extent out to about 3 feet from the blade on the right side.

The only down side that I am seeing to this idea is that there is currently nothing to support the end of the work piece. I would either need to come up with a way to support the end of the piece or a way of clamping it straight down on to the sled. If I can support the end of the piece, the clamping pressure from the clamping blocks should be enough to keep it from lifting off the sled.

Hmmmm.... the gears are turning..........:huh:
 
Done at Last! The Super Sled

I've been wanted to get down to the shop for more than 10 minutes here and there since I started my cross cut sled, and tonight I finally got the chance.:D

I wrapped up the last few things I wanted to do on it, so now it is done and ready for work.....

In the tradition of several other members, I have decided to name it. While it is not a tool, with a motor like the Phoenix, it is something that I will get a great deal of use out of. Going forward, the sled will be named "The Super Sled"

The final touches included the following:
-Make several extra ZCIs, some for dados and some just for extra
-Attach the ZCI
-Make an extended stop block for repeated cuts over 12 in in length.

Not much to say about the ZCIs, pretty straight forward. The only thing to note is that I made them with a tab that sticks out from under the main fence. With any luck, and being extra careful, I can avoid cutting through this tab. This way if I want to change ZCIs from a regular blade to a dado, I don't have a ZCI in 2 pieces (Hopefully:doh: )

The extended stop block
This is made of white oak. It will let me set a stop any where from over 12in up to 36in. For 12in and under I use the small stop block pictured in the initial post. It mounts to the t-track in the fence with T-bolts and nuts. I couldn't use the knobs as they interfered with the stock being cut. I drilled holes in the extension arm every 4 inches. This way I have a great deal of flexability in adjusting it. It for whatever reason, I need to set it to the left of the blade, all I have to do it just flip it around.
As an example oh how it works:
The picture of the extended stop block in use, it is set for a 20in cut.

I tried it out, and it worked very well. I'm sure that it helped that I had already loaded the runners up with Johnson's paste wax. The clamp blocks worked exactly how I had hoped. Using both clamp blocks you don't have to worry about the loose cut off moving around after the cut.

The only thing I would change at this point, would be to move the t-track up higher on the fence. This would allow thicker stock to be cut using the extened stop block set up. Not a huge deal as I can still cut long stock on the CMS.
 

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New Modification to the Super Sled

I have used my cross cut sled for both standard cuts and dados. I just change out the insert and the saw blade and I am set to go.

I never built an insert into the fence, so when I cut dados (specifically 3/4in wide dados) it took a wide notch out of the fence. At the time, I thought, ah no big deal. Well, when working on a cutting board that I am in the middle of, I realized the down side to having a 3/4 in wide notch in the fence..... tear out..... Doh! :doh: I don't know how I didn't see that coming.

Anyways, I used my router and created a 3/4 in deep 2 5/8 in wide dado on the fence, to accept a 3/4in deep insert. I went with the dept of 3/4in, so if down the road I need to replace it, I can use a standard piece of wood off the shelf, without any machining of the stock.

The inserts are made from poplar. The insert is a very snug fit, and it is held in place with 3 screws. I created a finger pull on the top to make it easier to remove. I rounded over all of the edges that are exposed above the fence, on the router table.

As expected, the fence insert did the trick in stopping the tear out.

While I was making one, I made up another 6, so I will be set for a while.
 

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Nice one Sean. You've obviously found the joy and ease of the sled world. Once you get a half way decent one and use it for awhile you end up coming up with a great design like yours. Everyone who just keeps thinking about doing it some day should just try one.
 
That is one super sled Sean! :thumb:

You sure do have the knack for making your own tools.

DT
 
Upcoming Sled Modification

For a while now I have been wanted to make a box joint jig.

Now that I made an insert in the fence in the sled, I have the perfect way of making one! :D

The first one will be for a 3/8in box joint. I'll run a 3/8in dado into a new insert. Then I'll take the insert out, and move it over 3/8in and make another dado in the insert. Then put a hardwood index pin in the 2nd dado. Reinsert the insert back in to the fence, and start making box joints.

I'll get some pictures up as soon as i have it done.
 
For a while now I have been wanted to make a box joint jig.

Now that I made an insert in the fence in the sled, I have the perfect way of making one! :D

The first one will be for a 3/8in box joint. I'll run a 3/8in dado into a new insert. Then I'll take the insert out, and move it over 3/8in and make another dado in the insert. Then put a hardwood index pin in the 2nd dado. Reinsert the insert back in to the fence, and start making box joints.

I'll get some pictures up as soon as i have it done.
That ought to work like a champ. :thumb: Looking forward to seeing the pics. (Do you have the Freud Box Joint blade set? It rocks, and would be perfect for your application.)
 
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