Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Five sided free standing deck

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    30

    Five sided free standing deck

    I am building a deck and it will have a free standing platform that will be about 3-4 ft off the ground. The upper deck framing is finished and I am getting ready to layout the peiers for the lower level. Where would you place the concrete piers and hence the beams? Below is the shape of the deck. I am really struggling with making a decision on how to layout the beams as the odd shape leaves unsupported areas. The top deck is about 10 ft by 7 ft and the lower deck will be about 8 ft by 6 ft.
    Last edited by Jim Benante; 07-17-2007 at 10:07 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    30
    Matt,

    The upper deck will have planks running long ways so I'd rather do that on the bottom platform, but it is not imperative.

    Number of piers is not a monetary concern, but a I'd rather dig less holes than more.

    The stairs do not have to be supported by piers unless I get recommendations that that is definitely the way to go.


    I don't have any piers on the sketchup design for the lower platform, do I need to add a few in as components so you can manipulate them? I am not very adept at sketchup at this point.

    I should also mention that this is a front entryway and is replacing an old deck that was wobble and deteriorating. See this post for some info.

    http://familywoodworking.org/forums/...ead.php?t=3537
    Jim
    Last edited by Jim Benante; 07-17-2007 at 10:22 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SE Minnesota
    Posts
    2,468
    Jim, I'd probably run 3 posts and piers under every other long joist which I would run from front to back (with the stairs to the upper deck being at the back) and two under each of the shorter ones that get the posts and piers. With the joists on 16" centers that would require 13 which is probably 12 or 14 more than the number of holes you'd like to dig.

    The way I laid it out, that would put a post/peir at each corner, one nearly midway along each short side and five along the longest edge.

    I'm kind of an over engineer, belt and suspenders sort of guy when it comes to this stuff so take that into consideration.

    By the way, that lower deck platform measures out 7' 4-49/64" x 10' 11-27/32". If you'd like some help setting SU up to avoid that, I'd be happy to help. Send me a PM.

    Dave
    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

  4. #4
    If you dubble up your rim board that will be a beam and your joist can hanger off the. Then put a footing in each coner and one in the middle on the long spands. You should have 7 footings (piers) eather way the deck boards go. I usally leave the outer board on my band 1" high so the deck boards will kill in to them and you see no end grain. you can build the stairs so they will be hangerd from one deks to the other. The lower stairs will need to sit on a footing where they land on the ground. I don't know what code is where you are but you should cross brace every coner because it's free standing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    2,323
    Since everybody deserves the right to throw in their opinion here comes mine...
    You have 5 corners and a small span in every direction. I would set five piers, ( maybe a sixth under the mid point of the joist supporting the stairs coming down)connect the dots with span acceptable lumber, run your cross joists. and consider the suggestion of James with the double joist outter rim for strength and aesthetics.
    Just my opinion
    Shaz
    I am a registered voter and you can be too. We ( registered voters ) select the moderators for this forum by voting every six months for the people we want to watch over this family forum.
    Please join me. Register now.
    Shaz
    Here is how

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    30
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Schaubhut View Post
    Since everybody deserves the right to throw in their opinion here comes mine...
    You have 5 corners and a small span in every direction. I would set five piers, ( maybe a sixth under the mid point of the joist supporting the stairs coming down)connect the dots with span acceptable lumber, run your cross joists. and consider the suggestion of James with the double joist outter rim for strength and aesthetics.
    Just my opinion
    Shaz
    I was thinking five or six, Dave was thinking double that, but it is a short span and I think over engineered is an understatement for having 13 piers, but with the funny angles on two of the posts what do you do. I would guess either place the beams directly on top of the posts or notch the posts to match the angle of the beams (outside edge of deck). Dave- you must love digging holes!

    I already set the posts and framed the upper portion of the deck. I used 2X8 double beams and bolted them to the posts. I used 10 inch concrete piers and 4x4 posts.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SE Minnesota
    Posts
    2,468
    [QUOTE=Jim Benante;49423] Dave- you must love digging holes!
    QUOTE]

    No, I don't but I don't mind watching other people dig them.

    Like I said, I'm a belt and suspenders sort of guy. Actually I'd look into the pre-made concrete piers that sit on the ground instead of setting them in holes. Maybe you can't do that in your area but we can around here. I used a bunch of them under the shed I built. Much easier than digging holes.

    I used things linke these:
    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    2,323
    That concrete post holder Dave showed us is a neat idea, set it in sand, I think. Far as the perimeter beam, I would set posts higher than needed, run a perimeter band of 2x8 or 2x10, level, then cut posts. Mitre the joints at the funny corners, secure it to the outside of the vertical posts, and nail the mitre together where there is no post. Then take a round over bit and round over 2x6 pieces that you can place, mitred, under all the edges of the perimeter beam, from beam to pier or footer, block behind the mitred pieces that go out away from the posts. ( end up cutting them flush with the 4x4 posts behind. These pieces will attach to the vertical member, set under the perimeter beam mitred at the same angle and yet with a softened 3/8 round look, at the mitre joint, cause let's face it mitres don't stay perfect in the out sides. You get support, strength and looks, if it works with the rest of the deck. Again just the opinion of a man off the street.
    Shaz
    Last edited by Robert Schaubhut; 07-19-2007 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Clarity
    I am a registered voter and you can be too. We ( registered voters ) select the moderators for this forum by voting every six months for the people we want to watch over this family forum.
    Please join me. Register now.
    Shaz
    Here is how

Similar Threads

  1. Standing Desk?
    By Brent Dowell in forum Designs, Plans and Sketches
    Replies: 47
    Last Post: 08-16-2013, 04:14 PM
  2. Free Standing/Outboard Tool Rest
    By Doug Miller in forum Turning Tool Questions and Show & Tell
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 05-04-2009, 05:26 AM
  3. supporting a free standing column
    By robert dewinter in forum Carpentry and Construction
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-29-2008, 06:22 PM
  4. stacking or standing
    By Julio Navarro in forum General Woodworking Q&A
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-18-2008, 02:58 PM
  5. Free standing Deck Posts and Beams
    By Jim Benante in forum Carpentry and Construction
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-06-2007, 01:22 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •