Wonky.....

Chas, speaking for myself...

I'm new enough to turning that I'm still experimenting with finishes. My current kick is a coat of tung oil/varnish mix (Formby's Tung Oil Finish), followed by a few coats of spray can lacquer. The oil/varnish tends to penetrate and darken the wood (which I like), and the lacquer allows for either a high buffed gloss or more of a satin finish if I don't buff it out. It also dries much more quickly, so I can get a finished product in a day or so instead of the two or three days it was taking me to build a few coats of oil/varnish blend alone.

My current personal preference is for glossy pieces, although I know there are a lot of people (especially woodworker types) who prefer a less shiny look. I like the look of glossy lacquer, but I'm not that fond of glossy polyurethane. I've also seen a number of comments saying the glossy pieces tend to sell better. I'm going to be finding out for myself in the next month or so as I start trying to sell a few of my pieces. Satin or glossy, I am becoming fond of sprayed finishes, since I tend to get a more consistent with less effort when I spray the finish as opposed to wiping it on. (Like I said though, I'm still learning and experimenting, so next month I could be singing a whole new song.)

Regarding your flexibility question, I don't really know the answer. My past flatwork experience with spray lacquer is limited to a few boxes, but one of them is a pool cue case that I've used weekly for over a year and a half, in hot, cold, wet, and dry weather, and even though it's constructed of thin glued panels, it's not moved a bit. (It's been even carried across a few parking lots during rainstorms with no apparent consequences.) The lacquer is also showing no signs of degradation or peeling. I sometimes wet sand with 600 grit paper before final buffing, and I've not seen any evidence that the moisture has gotten into the wood. The lacquer has proven to be very durable.

What are the preferred finishes in your neck of the woods?

Stu, regarding this comment...

Stuart Ablett said:

... I used a lot of CA glue to fix this, which left an ugly stain, so I decided to try some burning ...

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I've also run into the CA stain issue, but I've found that a penetrating finish like the tung oil blend I've been using (or something like Minwax Antique Oil) darkens the wood just like the CA glue does. I'm guessing BLO would do the same thing. A coat or two of finish, and the glue spots disappear.

Something you can file away for future reference...

Vaughn McMillan said:

.....
What are the preferred finishes in your neck of the woods?

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Thanks for that Vaughn, here it is more down to an individual persons output or style I guess, the majority seem to go for a more natural silky finish to most pieces, even when using a high gloss melamine enhanced finish it is often cut back to a sheen.

I have mixed feelings about it, in general I prefer just a wax lustre but as you say some pieces just stand out better if burnished.

For some reason the people who take most of my output seem to appreciate being told to 'just buff it up with bees wax' if it gets dull in usage. The food use items also are a hit when they can be refreshed with food safe oil occasionally.

On the CA stain issue, if the piece still has some sanding regime to go I wipe the surface of the wood with Celulose sanding sealer before glueing, this prevents the CA penetrating or wicking along the surface to some extent.

Stuart Ablett said:

Hi Chas, first few I've tried, they do look cool on the right pieces of wood, the Chatoyance in this wood is something to see, and the super gloss finish just makes that better, but yeah, not my first choice in finish either.

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Thanks for the feedback Stuart, and apologies for not addressing you by name above, (lost the salutation in the spell check)

The tendency here I find is that small items are more often finished to a high gloss, maybe it is because it enhances the figuring in the smaller pieces and seems more appropriate to the turner.

Chas Jones said:

Thanks for that Vaughn, here it is more down to an individual persons output or style I guess, the majority seem to go for a more natural silky finish to most pieces, even when using a high gloss melamine enhanced finish it is often cut back to a sheen.

I have mixed feelings about it, in general I prefer just a wax lustre but as you say some pieces just stand out better if burnished.

For some reason the people who take most of my output seem to appreciate being told to 'just buff it up with bees wax' if it gets dull in usage. The food use items also are a hit when they can be refreshed with food safe oil occasionally.

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Great insight, Chas. Thanks. It will be interesting to me in the next few months as I get some of my stuff out in the broad public eye for the first time. I've very curious to see what types of finishes they gravitate towards. I've even done a bit of experimenting with different sheens on a single piece, like the rim of this bowl.

Like you, I'm very fond of natural waxed wood in a lot of cases (although I've not used it on a lot of pieces yet, since I'm still experimenting). And for food use, I also agree with you on the renewable oil/wax finish. Mineral oil is my preference for cutting boards, although I've not yet really made any bowls that were intended for serious food use. (Maybe for lemon displays and the like. )

Thanks again -

Vaughn McMillan said:

.... although I've not yet really made any bowls that were intended for serious food use. -

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We have Large Salad Bowls made of Ash that are in almost daily use, just wiped down with a moist paper towel after use, they do stain a little with beetroot and tomatoes but not enough to look ugly.

We have personal Salad bowls may out of Beech that we prefer to china, also several small bowls made from Hazel, Cherry and Beech that are constantly in use for nibbles, heaven help anybody who drops peanut or crisp bits when SWMBO has a shelf full of them.


(Sorry for higjacking your thread Stuart)

Hey Chas, don't worry about what you call me, I don't mind, as long as you don't call me late for dinner

I did a couple of bowls a while back, I gave them to a friend, she used them for putting fruit in, apples and Japanese oranges. While sitting on the table, someone spilled a cup of sake (Japanese rice wine), and the finish went bad, fast!! I got hold of it, and refinished it. The finish was sanding sealer and the stick wax buffed onto it.

I'm trying the rattle can lacquer, to get a more durable finish, as I too do not like the clear poly finish, I think it looks cold, and uninviting.

Cheers!

Chas, this kind of topic drift is welcome, to me, always learn something new!

Hey guys, Great Thread! Being very new to bowl turning, heck I'm new to turning period, this has given a lot of good info.

Stu, thanks for the link to the donut! I had forgot about that thread. Your pieces both look great.

Stuart Ablett said:

...
I'm trying the rattle can lacquer, to get a more durable finish, as I too do not like the clear poly finish, I think it looks cold, and uninviting.
Cheers!

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I have only used a Melamine enhanced sealer to date for items subject to water splash etc.

I did do a couple of goblets in it which I suspect may get used for the odd tipple; time will tell if they hold up to Whisky and Wine. (recipients were warned)

I have one that was soaked in diluted cellulose sanding sealer before final finishing with the melamine that stands the occasional use.