A Cabinet for All of Bart's Dishes



Back installed. The cabinet is too wide to use a single sheet of plywood for the back so I drew a sort of frame and panel back. The panels fit into rabbets in the back of the frames the frames are drawn to have a 1 1/2" reveal but if made to have a 2 1/4" reveal, the entire back panel plywood could be gotten out of a 1/2 sheet of plywood.
 
Thank you Bart.

Here's a solution to the depth problem for the dinner plates. You can also see the construction of the back panel.



 
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I like the 4 leg version, but I would like to see what it looks like with the center door in the front. I have a feeling it will look a little better (even though it looks great right now). In any case, excellent work as always Dave.
 
I don't know how exactly to explain it, but having the center door in the front makes the unit look more like a piece of furniture, while having the center door in the back makes the unit look like a closet.

I hope that makes sense. Both look great, I just prefer the center door in the front.
 
Overlay Drawers?

At Bart's request, here's his cabinet with overlay drawers. These were just quickies and not quite to scale. I mostly wanted to get the shadows for these. Opinions?

 
So Steve, do you prefer the overlay drawers to inset drawers? Would you make the entire 3/4" thick drawer faces overlay the face frame or rabbet the drawer fronts? Bart would like to do half-blind DTs and I'm suggesting building NK-style drawers for ease of fitting.
 
I like the look of the inset drawers, a difference in pulls will make a huge effect on the overall impression of the piece (I like the golden locks myself). Put a larger top and corbels up the sides and you've got classic mission - especially if you modify the lights to be asymetrically (dividers on the top of the door only).

- Norb
 
I personally like/prefer inset fronts.
But 99.999% of my work is overlay work.

Inseting the drawer fronts half the thickness of the front material would be a good compromise.


Dave this is what I have the most experience doing.

If one does do inset drawers would you need to fasten the front on last to cover the NK style glide system?

Norb

We are trying to style this as close to Arts & Crafts as possible.

Thanks for everyones input into this project.
 
Bart, I don't think there's any problem with over lay drawer fronts and NK style drawer runners.

What do you think of Norb's suggestions for removing the lwer cross piece in the windows and the corbels under the ends of the top?
 
Bart, I don't think there's any problem with over lay drawer fronts and NK style drawer runners.

What do you think of Norb's suggestions for removing the lwer cross piece in the windows and the corbels under the ends of the top?


I want to keep this a close to the AC style as we can & would prefer to keep the lower cross piece.

Did they ever put corbels on AC furniture & isn't a pretty good top overhang required to make it look right if corbels are used?
 
This is turning out to be a right nice piece. Dave as always you are be to commended for your hard work and tenacity. You should take a break, maybe go to the coast and hang out for a while.:D
 
Thank you.
I like the inset drawers, four legs, and the shadows are quite lovely. :)
Just thinking :rolleyes: I would work to eliminate the center two back legs. :D
 
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Robert, thank you.

Here's a couple of sketches of an NK-style drawer. In the exploded view you can see the runners and the bottom. The front edge of the bottom panel fits into a groove plowed in the drawer front.

Fitting starts with placing the runners in the opening then measuring for and cutting the bottom panel. After it is glued to the runners and their operation is made smooth with a few light swipes with a plane, the box is made. It is made about 1/8" narrower than the opening so the sides don't bear on the face frame.

The runners are made of hardwood for long wear but the box sides can be made of softwood or softer hardwoods like yellow poplar without worry about the drawer becoming ill fitting with age.



 
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