Do you have an Aftermarket Table for your Drill Press?

Sean Wright

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WNY, Buffalo Area
Its been over a week since I finished my last shop project, the downdraft box. I know I said that I was going to actually make something non-shop related next time........ But I'm getting the urge to make a Drill Press Table.

I was thinking of doing something along the lines of the commercially available one pictured below. I have a Delta 12in DP similar to the one pictured (with the sanding drum), but with lasers.

Has anyone made one? If so I'd like to see a picture or two if you don't mind.
Also if anyone has any recomdenations on what works or doesn't work on either one you made or one you bought, that would be great too.

Thanks!
 

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Sean,

I have the Woodpecker top on my Steel City press. They also sell some of the parts. I use the clamps a lot, and have used the stops a few times too. Nice and stable.

DPTable.png


http://www.woodpeck.com/quickstoplpdptable.html

Here's a download from Shop Notes you might like...

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/094/extras/drill-press-table-and-fence-system/
 
sean, i use a cheap tai/chi drillpress vice on mine.....for stops it`s whatever scraps are laying on the floor shot together with gun nails...
 
I just use the small metal table that came with my drill press. In fact most of the time I keep my small drill press vise mounted to it. I switch way to much between metal work and woodworking so the table suits me just fine. Sometimes though I do toss a length of 2 x 8 or something on top of the vice so I can have a backer board for what I am drilling.
 
Greg, How does your table fasten to the DP table?

Could you get a picture from the bottom.

Thanks.........

I usually make mine but found a deal. I passed on the Rockler as you lose too much depth due to the fence design. They use the same basic fence that is on my router table so I was able to check this out in person. It would be fine if you had an additional fence to handle the need for more depth.

I went with the one Greg has. Its almost like it was made for the Delta 17-950; all controls have clearance and tilt is no problem. It comes with small wood screws to attach from underneath. I passed on that and put threaded inserts in, very secure.

I also mounted mine just off center. This allows me to rotate the insert four times before replacing (I haven't had to rotate once yet). 1/2" BB ply with four thicknesses of typing paper as shim material underneath sets the insert flush. I also made a taller fence for when that need arises. The low fence is great.
 
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Sean,

I too have the Woodpeck like Greg's and love it. I think they gave a lot of thought to the design and function and I haven't found anything yet that they missed the mark on.
 
Now that a drill press... Nice!
Garry

Well mine was definitely rode hard and put away wet after years of hard use in a auto parts plant but it was free. But I think I got lucky about a month ago and finally found out what it is during a search for some flat belt info. Found an eBay listing (can you believe somebody got this for $1.00:doh:) that is either the exact same model or darn close. Here's the info from the listing and a pic of what they're supposed to look like.



THIS IS A COLCORD WRIGHT FLOOR MODEL BELT DRIVE DRILL PRESS MADE BY LELAND & FORD COMPANY WORCESTER MASSACHUSETTS. THE DRILL PRESS HAS A METAL PLATE WITH PATENTS #1000183; #1091569; #1202054; #1223513; #1549173; #1560776 AND ALSO MANUFACTURING INFORMATION. THE DRILL PRESS IS 78 INCHES IN HEIGHT; THE BASE IS 22 INCHES BY 24 INCHES. THE DRILL PRESS WORK TABLE IS 22 INCHES BY 20 INCHES AND HAS A CHANNEL AROUND THE OUTSIDE WITH A DRAIN HOLE FOR CLEANING (VERY HEAVY). THE TABLE IS MOUNTED ON A 16 INCH LONG THREADED PEDISTLE AND ALSO ATTACHES TO A SLIDE ON THE MAIN DRILL PRESS FRAME AND WILL TRAVEL UP AND DOWN BY THE TURNING THE ADJUSTMENT WHEEL ON THE FRONT OF THE DRILL PRESS. THE TABLE WILL TRAVEL 12 INCHES UP AND DOWN. THE DRILL PRESS HAS A 5/8 INCH ARBOR HOLE FOR A TAPERED SHANK CHUCK. THE HEAD OF THE DRILL PRESS WILL TRAVEL UP AND DOWN 12 INCHES AND IS ALSO ADJUSTABLE IN COORDINATION WITH THE TABLE. ALL THE PULLEYS ARE METAL WITH 2 VARIABLE SPEED PULLEYS STARTING AT 8 INCHES IN DIAMETER TO - 7 INCHES TO 5 3/4 INCHES TO 4 1/2 INCHES AND ALL ARE ADJUSTABLE FROM THE TIGHTENING WHEEL AT THE TOP OF THE DRILL PRESS. ALL THE BEARINGS BUSHINGS ARE TIGHT AND IN VERY GOOD CONDION WITH NO RUST. THIS IS A HEAVY DRILL PRESS (300+ POUNDS) AND IT DOES COME APART IN THREE PIECES AND CAN BE LOADED IN A SMALL PICKUP TRUCK OR VAN. NOTE: THIS ITEM IS PICK UP ONLY IN SPRINGFIELD ILLINOIS AND I WILL ASSIST IN LOADING IT. I WILL HAVE THE DRILL PRESS READY TO LOAD UPON THE BUYERS ARRIVAL. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE EMAIL ME AND I WILL ANSWER ANY QUESTIONS YOU MAY HAVE . PAYMENT MUST BE MADE AT END OF AUCTION OR AT TIME OF PICKUP. PAYMENT CAN ALSO BE MADE BY PAYPAL, PERSONAL CHECK, MONEY ORDER, BIDPAY. SEE MY OTHER AUCTIONS. THANKS
 

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I was pretty excited to start on a DP table. I had a rough plan for how I was going to do it. Then tonight I did some measuring...... Because of the clearance needed for the crank handle, I need to re think my design. :doh:

Something I was considering was making a smaller version of my original plan, and see how that works for a while. I don't use the drill press alot,(compared to the table saw), but I see the value in having a larger table to support the work piece. Given that this would be an experimental/proto type table I think I will skip the t-track and go with routed t-track. This way if it doesn't work out, I don't have a bunch of cut t-track sections floating around.

I'll get some pictures out when I start cutting.
 
Good luck, Sean. You will probably find lots of things you want to do different, and to, make bigger/smaller after working with your prototype. Your final top will probably be what you want and more.

Look forward to seeing the pics and progress.
 
Sean,
I had a similar problem with my table. I opted to keep the table large and change the crank. I used a stubby ratchet purchased from Harbor Freight and made an adapter from some brass stock I had. Some may not like ratcheting the table up and down, but it works pretty well for me.

Just food for thought.

Wes

Oh, I have a Penn State table on mine - not really all that great. It wasn't one of my better purchases.:eek:
 
Because of the clearance needed for the crank handle, I need to re think my design. :doh:

Depending on how your fence will mount you can modify the 'horseshoe' at the back. On my first DP table I just cut out a half moon big enough to allow the handle to sneak by. I didn't need the 'ears' extending back past the column as my fence was 1 1/4" thick with the t-bolts just running though two mortises. That is, no angle iron behind it that needed somewhere to go as the fence was moved toward the column.

I lucked out on the current DP as the table winder is at 45* of what we are used to seeing and clears nicely. My point is (and I know it takes me awhile to get there sometimes) that a cutout for your winder should have pretty minimal effect on your work surface in use. Keep us posted :thumb:.
 
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