Shop Built Bandsaw Tensioner?

I might check into that all-thread a bit more before I used it on any machine. The BORG's typically only use grade 2 fastener grades which is pretty soft. Like anything all-thread comes in many grades and qualities, but if its going to be used under a lot of stress, I would be sure you had the good stuff otherwise you could be replacing mechanisms under tension.
 
Another Crank

Hi,

I did what Bart said. In addition to what he did I put a dimple in the end of the threaded tensioning rod. I just started drilling with a small drill (something like 1/4"). Then I placed a small, single, ballbearing in the dimple to reduce friction when cranking. The ball stays in place because the tension is never totally released from the crank rod.

Three seconds and five turns of the crank releases the tension. It is a no effort thing---so why not release the tension. If you always turn the same number of turns you can always go back to the same tension without looking at any thing.

I measured the height that I wanted the crank to be. I heated the threaded rod and bent it 90 degrees. I drilled a hold through a piece of dowl and slipped it over the right angle to make a great, very easy to use handle. I can spin it around with one finger.

Oh yes---Delta 14" with neoprene, flat tires. I have been running 1/2" blade. I have used the "crank" with 1/4" blade also.

Enjoy

Jim Bradley
 
Great tip on the ball bearing...

I really like that idea...

I'm starting the think that the the crank, and the count is probably the simpler solution (well, next simplest to the 'don't do it' solution)...
 
Jim, welcome to the Family :wave:

Great first post, lots of info, and a different take on things, I like that :thumb:

Could you provide us with a pic?

That would be great!

Again, welcome! :D
 
Welcome Jim C. Bradley.

Does the ball bearing not fall out when you completely release the tension to change blades? I am supposing that it would not if you were careful and kept some downward tension on the crank and did not accidently push the top wheel up as you put on the new blade.
 
Ahhhh!

And I had the perfect opportunity to welcome Jim on his First post!

What a great first post too.

Thanks Jim!
 
Crank

Finally got around to putting the crank together. It really does make it a lot easier to adjust/remove the tension on the blade. It really turns smoothly. Easy enough that I'm not sure I'll even do the quick release thing.

* Borg All-Thread
I just used the borg all-thread I had. Seems to be working well
I'll keep an eye on it, but I don't think there is that much stress
on the rod to bend it.

* Ball Bearing
Totally forgot about this. The end of the rod did wander a bit
but a little time at the grinder grinding to match the profile of
the factory rod solved the wandering.

bandsaw_crank.jpg
 
....Three seconds and five turns of the crank releases the tension. It is a no effort thing---so why not release the tension. If you always turn the same number of turns you can always go back to the same tension without looking at any thing....

Like some others, I never detension and I have a bandsaw with a lovely lever that does the job in one 180° (hey - check that degree symbol out:thumb:) flip. As to "why not release the tension" - ask me again when you next walk up to make that one quick cut and forget to retension.:doh:

As to the accuracy question, this is wood. Its gonna move anyway so accuracy to 1000ths is just not necessary as far as I can see. My concern is that folks get so anxious about whether their machines and techniques are accurate enough that they get discouraged.
 
Yup.

Plenty of opinions on whether de-tensioning is required or not. Seems like a highly personal choice that can get some people really fired up, although I can't see why. I'd suggest starting another thread if we want to discuss the merits of whether or not it is suggested/required/not necessary.

Just to keep this post on-topic, I did find a couple of other added benefits to the crank.

* Makes it much easier to change blades, say
if you are switching from resawing to a small
blade for tightly curved cuts.

* Makes it easier to adjust the tension.

All in all, I like it.
 
I take the tension off of Big Blue, as I do not use that saw very often, and no "Quick" cuts with it, but I did put a crank on it, and it is a lot easier to use now, also with Big Blue the blade is VERY thin, only 0.55mm, and wide at 63mm, not to mention that they cost $120 each and Hitachi recommends taking the tension off of the blade when not in use, as the tension on Big Blue is a lot more than most 14" bandsaws.

All of that being said, I do not remove the tension on the Phoenix, and yes the crank I built for that works very well, making the flutter tensioning method quick and easy.

Cheers!
 
Ball Bearing No fall out

Welcome Jim C. Bradley.

Does the ball bearing not fall out when you completely release the tension to change blades? I am supposing that it would not if you were careful and kept some downward tension on the crank and did not accidently push the top wheel up as you put on the new blade.

The ball bearing has not fallen out of the mechanism. The dimple drilled into the end of the threaded rod is about half of the diameter of the ball bearing---that is, the rod is covering about half of the ball. The rod itself has weight so the ball never has complete freedom.

I am working on pictures of the whole shop. I will include the crank.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
Like some others, I never detension and I have a bandsaw with a lovely lever that does the job in one 180° (hey - check that degree symbol out:thumb:) flip. As to "why not release the tension" - ask me again when you next walk up to make that one quick cut and forget to retension.:doh:

As to the accuracy question, this is wood. Its gonna move anyway so accuracy to 1000ths is just not necessary as far as I can see. My concern is that folks get so anxious about whether their machines and techniques are accurate enough that they get discouraged.

That is easy. The blade guide comes down to the table any time the tension is released on the blade. If the guide is down---the tension is down.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
Hi All,

I did a post today with photos that relates to this thread. The title of the post was "Lost in the Crash?" I designed and built a blade tension reliever. Of course since I did that I have seen several other things on the web that would have made my life easier. In other words other people have done the same thing before me. Since I have such a small ego, I like mine best.

What I (and others) did was to make a very inexpensive, fast and easy way to release the blade tension. It takes about 10 seconds and one finger or more to do it.

By the way, when my tension is released I drop the blade guide to the table. Dropping the guide to the table was Glenn's idea. He thought my "Tension Loose" note was tacky.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
Hi Again,

I don't know if I should be jumping back into this again---however (you knew I was going to say "however" didn't you?) back when I did not release tension and was using 1/4" 10tpi blades, I continually did battle with drift.

Now, with 1/2" blade, new Carter guides and new tires I don't fight drift. Looking at old saw blades with a magnifing glass I saw that the teeth on one side of the blades were bent in a tiny bit towards center. This produced unequal cutting on the two sides of the blade. Undoubtably this had some effect on my uncontrolable drifting. When I say uncontrolable, I mean that I could not cut straight using a fence.

Other factors to consider: The use of new tires might, in fact probably does, reduce the tooth bending factor. The reduction of "quiet time" tension might, in fact probably does, reduce the tooth bending factor also. The superior guides certainly do help fight drift and so does going from 1/4" to 1/2" blades. Oh yes, the saw was tuned as accurately as I could do it while taking all of the time I needed to do it right.

I do know that I can cut true, thin, parallel, reasonably smooth (because I am using 4tpi) slices in wood up to 3 3/4" thick (have not done thicker yet) in pine, poplar, red oak, and white oak.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
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