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Thread: Gloat - kind of.....

  1. #1
    Matt Dunlap Guest

    Gloat - kind of.....

    .....
    Last edited by Matt Dunlap; 04-01-2008 at 12:57 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Southern Georgia
    Posts
    1,396
    Gotta love it when someone else buys tools for you to play with!

    Post an update after you play with that Triton for a while. And push it hard...don't baby it.

    - Marty -
    Fivebraids, Inc.
    When you earnestly believe you can compensate for a lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there’s no end to what you can’t do…

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ NM
    Posts
    29,089
    Congrats on the new toys, Matt. Based on my experience, I think you'll like the Incra once you get used to it. One thing I recommend is adding a sacrificial face to the aluminum fence. The sliding stop is made to reach over a 3/4" plywood or MDF face, and even comes with screws to attach it. That face comes in real handy as a zero clearance device. I use the edge of the cut in the sacrificial face to know exactly where the blade will cut the piece, too. Somewhere (on SMC, I think) I did a series of photos showing how to zero out the sliding stop. Lemme know if that'd be of any help and I'll try to dig up the pics.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Reno NV
    Posts
    12,765
    I've got the Incra miter gauge. I like the ability to it has to expand to the left for doing small projects and stuff.

    Couple things about it that I think could be improved

    * The angle of the fence to the table will 'probably'
    require shimming to make it 90 degrees. I've seen
    posts about this elsewhere.

    * not so wild about the split washer method of taking up
    the slack in the miter slot. I've never really gotten mine
    to fit 100% slop free. But I'm getting ready to make a
    bunch of stuff, so I'm going to spend a weekend sometime
    doing a serious tuneup on all the machines. Maybe
    I'll figure it out this time.

    Score on the Blades and the Router!
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ NM
    Posts
    29,089
    Matt, here are the pics I did on zeroing out the scale. You can also see the sacrificial face on the fence. In the first four pics, the sacrificial face is moved a little bit away from the blade, to make the details about the stop block a bit more clear. Anyway, here's how I do it...

    First, I set lock the sliding stop down close to touching the blade, then using the micro adjust screw, I make it just barely touch (or clear) the tips of the saw blade:

    Attachment 11826

    The next pic shows the scale slid out a little ways, just for a reference:

    Attachment 11827

    Then, I moved the scale back towards the fence just to the point where the zero mark is lined up with the edge of the stop block. I know that point is zero:

    Attachment 11828

    Once it's set, you can use that edge of the stop block to reference a specific length all along the scale.

    Attachment 11829

    I haven't really used the "inside" scale...the one that's exposed when you extend the fence. When I use the stop block with the extended fence, I simply measure the old-fashioned way if I need a specific measurement. If I just need to match an existing cut, I'll use the first piece to set the stop block to the correct distance. (The micro adjust screw comes in real handy for this.) The way I have my sacrificial face set up, I have to loosen one of the screws holding it on to extend the aluminum fence. You can see the floating nut in this pic:

    Attachment 11831

    And here's how I usually use the sacrificial fence. When it's set up like this, I don't use the scale. My steel ruler works just fine for setting up the stop block if necessary, but often I'm cutting to a marked line on the piece, so I use the freshly-cut edge of the face as a reference for my mark. If I need two or more pieces to match, I'll cut the first one based on the mark, then set the stop block to match for cutting the other pieces.

    Attachment 11830

    The vernier scale on mine is right on zero when the pointy thing is in the notches. (Excuse my highly technical terms there.) Can you take a picture of the scale on yours? Maybe we can help figure out the problem.

    I hope this helps -
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Placitas, NM in the foothills of the Sandia Mt
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    688
    Hey Matt,
    Great gloat!

    Looking forward to hearing how that Triton works for you. I've heard lots of good things about it. They even like it over on the Festool forum.
    Don't believe everything you think!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,434
    Wish my boss would buy me some tools......oh, wait....I am the boss.

    Nice idea to "kick the tires" before buying Matt.
    A very wise man once said.......
    "I'll take my chances with Misseurs Smith and Wesson. "

  8. #8
    Wow, great tools to play with! The Triton sure beats the ancient PC690's we had at work.
    Oh, and the WWII does go on sale every so often, so keep your eyes peeled.


    Wes

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ NM
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    Matt, I think you can loosen the smaller of the two vernier scales and slide it that tiny bit to get it on the money.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

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