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Thread: Duh..now what do I do...Trim UPDATE! Comments?

  1. #1
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    Duh..now what do I do...Trim UPDATE! Comments?

    In my excitement to install trim in one of our guest bedrooms, I didn't take into consideration the height of the window...so I need some advice.

    Here's the chair rail along the side. It's 33 1/2" above the floor.

    Attachment 11810

    Here's where the rail will meet the window....

    Attachment 11808

    My plan is to add a board below the window casing to extend it about 1/2" below where the bottom of the chair rail will be. That way, the bottom of the chair rail and the bottom of the window casing will not be just a long single line. I don't think that would look good, but a break in the line, with the window extending even a bit below, would be more appealing.

    I will have the same problem with the master bedroom window, but I haven't put up any chair rail yet.... I was thinking of installing the rail to 38" above the floor, and I should have about 1" of window below the rail. I think this would look better on the 16' long wall with the window in this room.

    Attachment 11809


    What do you guys think? Any advice would really help.
    Last edited by Greg Cook; 09-13-2009 at 03:46 AM.

  2. #2
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    Personally, I think I'd rip a piece of the molding and use the lower part to extend the rail below the window casing. Essentially notching the rail to fit under the casing. In other words, I'd go with the long uninterrupted line you are trying to avoid.

    Take that with a giant Family Size grain o' salt...I'm not a trim carpenter.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

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  3. #3
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    Hi Greg,
    This is a situation we call " turning corners". It is easy to do the straight run but the quality shows when you "turn the corners". Do you want it "done" or do you want high "impact"? "Curb appeal"?
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  4. #4
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    At first I thought the same thing as Vaughn. But now I am wondering how it would look to miter the corners of the trim and take it around the window leaving about a four inch space between the trim and window casing both at the sides and the bottom. Or maybe no space. Here is where sketchup would be good if a guy knew how to operate it.

  5. #5
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    I agree with Vaughn.
    "I am enclosing two tickets to the first night of my new play; bring a
    friend...if you have one."
    --George Bernard Shaw to Winston Churchill

    "Cannot possibly attend first night, will attend second..if there is
    one."
    --Winston Churchill, in response




  6. #6
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    Thanks guys!

    Steve, yeah, the only short piece I had to hold up was crown, but the size is about the same.

    I haven't "turned corners" in other places, but that's not a problem. How much space would you guys advise leaving between the corner and the window casing if I go that route?

    Vaughn, I thought about the "notched" trim approach, but thought it might look to much like a "patch", but I'm a newbie at this too. I've been joining my boards with a 45 bevel and a 30 miter. Seems to make a clean joint, but if I rip a board and use just the bottom, I'd probably just have to butt joint them. Hmmmm...

    Funny, all the books I have, showing trim and windows...and none with the trim this close to the bottom. The windows that would be similar have no rail on the wall, and the ones with rails on the wall are a lot lower, so the trim meets the casing well above the bottom.

  7. #7
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    I think I would be inclined to lower it all to about 31 inches so that the rail would clear under the window trim. Turning the corners would be another option.

  8. #8
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    Tom,

    The problem with lowering the other railing is.....it's already on all the other walls! It would be a real pain to move it, and not one I would really want to do....

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    Personally, I think I'd rip a piece of the molding and use the lower part to extend the rail below the window casing. Essentially notching the rail to fit under the casing.
    Does anyone have a pic, scan or whatever of this technique? I'd like to check it out and see if I think it would work in my room.

    Thanks

    Steve,

    I confirmed there is a double stud at the window edge. Solid to about an inch and a half to the right of the casing.

  10. #10
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    greg, matts idea is the only one yet that won`t look like a work around...
    i too noticed the crown right away
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