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Thread: making flooring transition pieces

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Central (upstate) NY
    Posts
    1,452

    making flooring transition pieces

    My wife and I recently replaced a hallway carpet with the DuPont laminate flooring (the kind that is pre-padded - was a joy to install - and the customer service people gave me a local guy's cell number who was happy to answer a couple questions on a Saturday mid-morning!). The place where we got the flooring did not have matching transition pieces. The flooring is a cherry look and so I figured that I could just make the transition pieces.

    My plan is to joint, plane and cut some cherry into appropriate sizes and then round over the exposed corners and add two rabbets on the bottom so that the piece is as flush as possible with the floorboards and the two adjoining surfaces.

    I have some questions about how best to do this.

    First, is the rounding over best done with a circular rounding over bit, or would a flat elliptical profile from a panel raising bit be best (on the router table for safety)?

    How thick should the pieces be from floorboard to exposed surface? How thin can I get away with from flooring surface (i.e. carpet, laminate, tile, etc.) to transition surface?

    Is it better to use finish nails (pneumatic) or a couple finish screws (#1 square bit drive) to anchor the pieces to the floorboard? Does this answer change if we are planning to eventually replace the two bedroom carpets with laminate flooring? If screws, at least the transition pieces should be pre-drilled, right?

    Aside from the obvious answer of enough to cover both flooring surfaces, how wide should the transition pieces be? I have one bedroom that will need a fairly wide piece (~4" - mistakes were made...) and the others less than 3". Do transitions wide enough to match the doorway moldings look ok for no door areas? For areas with a door, does a transition from the edge of the door to the end of the dorrway molding look acceptable?

    For the personal preference issues, if people could provide what the standard practice is and/or what would be more helpful for resale value, it would be appreciated.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Grove City, Ohio
    Posts
    57
    I make mine about 1 1/2" to 2" wide and about 3/16 above the highest floor. Cut a rabbet about 1/3 back. I cut the taper on the band saw and then plane out the blade marks. I rounded the edges with a block plane and 220 grit sand paper. I nailed them to the floor. Here is one from oak to cork flooring and one that has not had the rabbet cut yet.

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