Buffing bowl/etc.

Jeff Bower

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DSM, IA
I've never used a buffer to finish my bowls, but picked this up at a sale for $3 and want to turn it into a dedicated buffing machine. http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5493

My question is which type of buffer do most of you use? Just the standard wheels or the bowl/goblet buffers that Beall offers or both? I know I can get a standard wheel buffer on it since it came with a worn out one, but after looking at the bowl/goblet buffers I don't know how they attach? Thanks for the help in advance.
 

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I'd check out Beall's website (http://www.bealltool.com) and look into the adapters they offer. I'd be willing to bet you can find a way to make it work. You might even try emailing them. They may be able to work something out.

I'm a huge fan of the Beall single wheel system. I went for two years without a buffing system thinking "how much difference can it make?" Well, let me tell you... the difference is HUGE. I wouldn't even think about not buffing a finished piece anymore.
 
Jeff, I've got regular buffing wheels (8" and 6") and 4" bowl buffs, and I use the wheels the majority of the time. I only use the bowl buffs for the insides of smaller bowls the wheels can't reach into. On the other hand, a person could buff insides and outsides with the bowl buffs...it'd just take a little longer, I'd guess. Like Neal said, I suspect the folks at Beall have a way to mount the bowl buffs on your buffer. If you're doing mostly small bowls (6" or smaller), the bowl buffs might be the best way to go. If you're planning to do mostly bigger stuff, I think you'd be happier with wheels first, then bowl buffs later if you decide you need them.

The bigger wheels and bowl buffs I have are a set from Don Pencil...essentially the same as the Beall system, with different buffing wheel fabrics for the different buffing compounds. The smaller wheels I use are cheap flannel wheels I buy at Home Depot and mount on a mandrel on my mini lathe. These wheels are a bit firmer than the bigger ones, so I use the little ones when I want to be more aggressive...like with tripoli on acrylic, removing 600 grit scratches.

I agree bigtime with Neal...machine buffing makes a big difference.
 
Neal, thanks never thought of emailing Beall.

Vaughn, I'm glad to here the wheels will work for larger bowls. I plan on turning larger stuff in the future. Also good to know that I can start with the cheapo ones from HD.
 
I finally finished my buffer! Only took me 2yrs!! :eek:

I picked up acouple of smaller/inside bowl wheel at HF last week (the ones to the left of the motor. All I did was wire a swtich in, and added some threaded extensions to the motor spindles. The drill chuck makes changing out buffer pads and sanding pads easy. The sanding pads work great to hold a padded sander to finish the bottoms of turnings as well.
 

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Buffing bowl/ect

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WTG,Great find.I have more buffing pads than I can count.I have several half round shaped buffing pads that I use in my drill,then I have a set of 8" wheels that I mount in the drill chuck on the lathe,then I have the beal buff system.For a start I would get an 8" wheel on one side for tripoli and a soft wheel for wax on the other side. Good luck
 
Congrats on finally getting it done. Don't know if you already know it, but you should have specific wheels/buffs for each of the buffing compounds you use. In other words, don't use tripoli and white diamond on the same wheel. The standard mix of compounds is tripoli, then white diamond, then wax. Separate wheels for each of the compounds. A lot of folks use carnauba wax for the wax stage, I prefer applying Renaissance wax by hand, but then I buff it to a shine with a soft buffing wheel.

If you're looking for a single "do it all" compound, you might try some of the "PL" compound Don Pencil sells. It seems to be less abrasive than tripoli, but not as soft as white diamond, which is more of a polish than an abrasive (although even the finest polish has some abrasive qualities).
 
Congrats on finally getting it done. Don't know if you already know it, but you should have specific wheels/buffs for each of the buffing compounds you use. In other words, don't use tripoli and white diamond on the same wheel. The standard mix of compounds is tripoli, then white diamond, then wax. Separate wheels for each of the compounds. A lot of folks use carnauba wax for the wax stage, I prefer applying Renaissance wax by hand, but then I buff it to a shine with a soft buffing wheel.

If you're looking for a single "do it all" compound, you might try some of the "PL" compound Don Pencil sells. It seems to be less abrasive than tripoli, but not as soft as white diamond, which is more of a polish than an abrasive (although even the finest polish has some abrasive qualities).

Thanks for the info Vaughn. :thumb: I've just been using applying paste wax after the oil finish drys. I put the wax on by hand let it dry a little and then buff it out. I've heard Renaissance wax works better, so I might pick some up soon.
 
Jeff, are you using any buffing compounds (tripoli, white diamond) before applying the wax? If not, you're in for a very big smile the first time you see how they improve things.
 
Jeff, are you using any buffing compounds (tripoli, white diamond) before applying the wax? If not, you're in for a very big smile the first time you see how they improve things.

Vaughn, I am not, but I will be picking up a few more buffing pads this weekend with some tripoli and white diamond and will be prepared to be amazed. :thumb::D
 
Vaughn, I am not, but I will be picking up a few more buffing pads this weekend with some tripoli and white diamond and will be prepared to be amazed. :thumb::D

Excellent. :thumb: You will be amazed indeed. ;) I'd suggest practicing on a few less-important pieces to get the hang of things. Especially with the tripoli, there's a relatively fine line between not buffing hard enough and buffing too hard (and going through the finish.) If the finish is well-cured, then you can use a heavier touch on the buffer than if the finish is only a few days old.
 
I’ve been reading this thread with interest, since I just started turning and, with the few items that I have turned, was not happy with the finish. Sunday, The Bride and I went to the Harvest Festival at the local fair grounds and checked out the turning vendors (for me) and the quilters (for The Bride). One vendor had some beautiful bowls and vases turned from Aspin, but the finish look like Varathane which made the whole product look like plastic. On the way home, I stopped at the local Woodcraft and bought the Beall buffing system and 3” bowl buffs and the #2 Morse taper to couple the adapter to my lathe. I ran my turnings over the wheels and bowl buffs according to directions, and I was amazed at the finish. It has a bright, warm shine, but without looking plastic. What’s more, it feels good to the touch. I am extremely pleased with this. Thank you all for the recommendations.
 
In the past I played around with buffing and was not impressed. The last few months there have been many postings on different forums about buffing.

So they drew me in and I purchased a set of buffs from Beall. (just this week) I had a small walnut box with no finish! Took it to the buffer and used Tripoli and smiled -- skipped the White Diamond, Wax buffed next and it knocked my socks off. I really like B. Walnut but this is just beautiful. I don't know why I have waited so long.

I am not real fond of the finish plastic look where the shine seems to sit on top of the wood - I really like the deep shine like the car finished with hand rubbed candy apple red look. and this is what I got with the walnut after being buffed.

I next tried to buff a small Persimmon box that is full of worm holes.
The box looks like very old ivory (patina) with black worm holes. Just beautiful. I really have made my money back from the cost of the buffs on just these two pieces.
 
Paul one word of caution is watch the white diamond on porous wood. I am surprised on your walnut that you didn't have little white spec's from the white diamond all over it. I don't buff oak, ash or walnut, etc. with the white diamond because of this. Also don't use the carnuba wax anymore because it leaves to many finger prints and if you get like rain drops on it you will have water spots to buff out again. I went to Renaissance Wax. It leaves no finger prints especially when handled alot at shows. Gives a nice soft shine.
 
Bernie, he skipped the white diamond on the walnut. ;) Your advice is spot on, though. :) I've also stopped using Carnauba wax. I apply Renaissance Wax, let it dry, then buff it out with a clean wheel.

I've found it's not necessarily the Beall buffs that do the trick...it's the compounds. I've got Don Pencil's equivalent system, but I've had good success with generic 6" buffing wheels from the Borg too, as long as I use the right sequence of compounds.
 
Bernie, he skipped the white diamond on the walnut. ;) Your advice is spot on, though. :) I've also stopped using Carnauba wax. I apply Renaissance Wax, let it dry, then buff it out with a clean wheel.

I've found it's not necessarily the Beall buffs that do the trick...it's the compounds. I've got Don Pencil's equivalent system, but I've had good success with generic 6" buffing wheels from the Borg too, as long as I use the right sequence of compounds.

I saw that Vaughn but just wanted to throw that out in case someone didn't know. I should have said anyone using a buff should be aware of the white diamond on porous wood. My neighbor did that to a piece of walnut and we had to use the cole jaws and resand. Luckily he had just buffed the outside and not the inside.
 
White diamond on Black Walnut might just become a Dalmatian Bowl. In fact it might be so way-out, it may qualify to become part of what the AAW considers ART.

Now if I could make it look like it was never never never turned on a lathe I am sure they would accept it for the fancy Journal. OH ---- my prejudices are showing.

Paul
 
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