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Thread: Are there any house the house?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Tokiwadai, Japan

    Are there any house the house?

    With the inside painting and trim work of the house pretty much finished, we've decided we'd better get the outside done before the weather turns cold and wet. So....we've been looking at tons of paint color guides and magazines, trying to decide on the color. We think that the current color is just a bit too "cottage cream", and are thinking of something a bit different. We're also debating changing the trim color from dark green to white.

    Here's what it looks like now.

    The front:

    Attachment 12654

    The back:

    Attachment 12650

    The north side

    Attachment 12651

    Attachment 12652

    The south side

    Attachment 12653

    As you can see, the front is almost all brick and the sides have few windows. The back has several windows and the pergola.

    We got a bid from a company that did one of our neighbors house. They did a very good job, but the bid we got was too high, IMO, especially for the pergola. They wanted $500 to pressure wash it and $1440 to paint! I figure I could probably buy material and build/install a brand new one for that...

    The house bid was $675 to power wash and $4300 to paint, including trim and doors.

    I figured that since I already have a nice power washer, 2 Werner aluminum ladders that also fold to make a scaffold stand, a 9' Werner scaffold extendable platform, all I needed was a sprayer. For $7,500 (cost + tax), I could get a nice airless sprayer and high quality paint and still save several thousands. So, after quite a bit of research, and visits to the local box stores and then my paint store, I ended up getting this sprayer....

    Attachment 12655

    It's a Graco Ultra 395. My paint store had them on a special October sale for $879 (regular discount price is $1010). Graco just came out with a New Contractor gun that has quite a few improvements over the "Contractor II" model currently included with the pump package. All the new literature shows the "New" gun included, but they are still shipping the remaining sets with the older gun. My paint store had the New gun, sold by itself for $189, so agreed to switch out the gun. The New gun also came with a special promotion...2 extra RAC X tips that normally sell for about $30 each!

    So I got the pump, 50' of hose, the New gun and a total of 3 tips for $879. I've studying about spraying on several painting forums, and the information available on the Graco website, but would like to hear from members on their actual experience.

    Last edited by Greg Cook; 09-13-2009 at 03:46 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Puyallup, WA

    I'm a part-time professional painter. I started doing it back when I was a teenager with my father who got a lot of jobs working on rental properties. I ended paying my way through college from the money I made painting during the summers.

    Now, some 20+ years later, even though I'm a professional engineer/manager during the week (50+ hours), I still manage to paint 10-12 houses per year. In fact, I'm just this weekend finishing my last exterior job of the season. I would conservatively estimate that I've sprayed more then 200 homes and have hand painted at least another 50.

    It's doable for you to spray your home. The following are some suggestions that if you follow, will make your life easier.

    1. Go slow. People get in trouble when they get in a hurry and the result is overspray all over the place.

    2. Get a shield. A few well cut pieces of cardboard will do in a pinch, but since you just spent $800 for the sprayer, you might as well spend another $25 on a proper shield.

    3. Tape and mask everything. An experienced pro can get away spraying with out as much masking, because we've already (hopefully) learned how to control our spray pattern. This takes experience and it's not possible for a first timer to be perfect.

    4. When in doubt, don't. For example, don't try to spray right up to the brick. Give yourself a gap of 2-3 inches. This tip can save you a ton of grief lator.

    5. If your siding is cedar, back brush (or roll) the surface to really force the paint into the grain. This takes time but is the sign of a quality job. If, on the other hand your siding is the "LP" type, don't worry about it. Nothing's going to impregnate it.

    6. When your done, completely dissemble your gun, and remove the filter on the machine and clean everything twice with a good "gun" soap. I've always used "HERO" brand (available from Parker Paint), but there are other brands available. After you've removed all the surface paint, reassemble the gun, and shoot the same cleaner through the tip as if your spraying paint.

    7. When you're spraying, move your hand parallel to the surface. Also release the trigger at the end of each pass.

    8. Since you have lap siding, shoot at an upward angle to avoid the "ghost lines" that can occur under the bevel.

    Good luck! You better start soon. Latex shouldn't really be applied below 50 degrees F. In a pinch, I've used some "coldcoat" paint formulas (alcohol based) down to mid-30's but I wouldn't do it on my own home.

    Lastly, allow for at least a week (and preferably two) between pressure washing and painting.
    Last edited by Peter Lyon; 09-17-2007 at 03:24 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Nanaimo B.C. Canada
    Hi Greg, beautiful home you have there

    Peter has covered everything very well

    I would just add that you may want to grab another 50' of line for your paint pump. It's nice to be able to set up your paint and pump and not have to be constantly moving things. You may find that 50' of line will limit your movement especially for ladder work on the second story... YMMV

    I would grab lots of cardboard or cheap paneling in addition to a proper shield. It comes in very handy at keeping over spray off of certain areas. I have even cut pieces to fit over windows (including trim) and used tacks or small brads to keep it in place. Can be quicker then masking sometimes.

    I agree with Peter about "back rolling", especially rough surfaces.

    Also agree that you better get going because fall is here...

    Good luck
    Cheers! - Jim

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Tokiwadai, Japan

    Thanks for the input. We have finished most of the inside, and that got me kind of into the swing of, prep, paint, clean...

    I agree with you completely on stopping if you are, or get tired. I learned that the hard way in a couple of areas. I stop now.

    I got a shield, but have some a bunch of cardboard too, for some larger areas on the pergola.

    Got tape, plastic sheeting, paper to mask off. I will be be sure to use it.

    I will probably do some brush work if I don't think I can do a clean job with the gun.

    I have brushed some areas while we were deciding on color. the paint penetrates pretty good...I think I need to primer in some areas and may have to give some areas a second coat.

    I have been giving special attention to the cleaning part. I have read how important that is on every forum and every article I've seen.

    I've watched a few videos and read about the swinging back and forth parallel to the surface.

    Didn't know about the aiming slightly up...

    We are still in the mid 60s with forecasts next week back to the lower 70s. However, I will be focusing on this project from now till it's done and should be finished while the temp is still favorable.

    Didn't realize I should wait that long between washing and painting. I thought a couple of days would be enough...?

    Any thoughts specifically on shooting primer on all or just spot? How about paint "conditioners"? I have used Pitt-Tech by Pittsburgh Paint for some of the interior paint. It seems to help, and wonder about using it also for the external paint. BTW, I'm using Miller Paint Acri-Lite paint. Miller Paint is a regional maker that is very well known and respected here in the Pacific northwest.

    We used the Acro Pure for the interior.


    Attachment 12670

    Thanks again for all the advice.
    Last edited by Greg Cook; 09-13-2009 at 03:46 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Tokiwadai, Japan
    Thanks, Jim.

    I was thinking of putting the pump/paint on a sheet of plywood on the pergola for the north side and the back right. I can put them in the bedrooms on the second floor and run the hose under the plastic used to cover the window...and be careful when shooting there... Do you still think I need additional hose? No problems with that length?

    I do have lots of cardboard for additional shields.

    Thanks for your comments too.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Puyallup, WA

    I'm not a big fan of "spot" priming. I say either prime the entire wall or don't prime it at all. A few years ago, I was asked to repaint a house that had wood siding where a lot of knots were showing through a fairly recent paint job. Prior to my arrival, the home owner had taken a brush and slopped primer on most of these knots. After I applied the top coat, the primed areas looked slightly different.

    As far as conditioners go, I don't think there will be any value added with your setup. Your pump is more then sufficient to move the paint. And the surface your painting isn't smooth, so your not going for a "glass" finish.

    Another recommendation that I should have added to my previous post is my strong belief that two light/medium coats is >>>> then one heavy coat.

    Lastly, I've never used (nor even heard of Miller paint) -- and I only live 30 - 60 minutes south of you. Not a big deal, and if you've had success with it, go for it. Just curious because I would've sworn that I've painted just about every brand available.

    The last few years, when given the choice, I've been painting Rodda AC911 and AC909.
    Last edited by Peter Lyon; 09-16-2007 at 05:52 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Tokiwadai, Japan
    Sheesh...I should have looked at your location. I'm east of Redmond, so about an hour away.

    OK, I'll skip the conditioner for the exterior.

    Miller's Acro has virtually no smell at all, covers well, has mold/mildew blockers in it and goes on really well. I really like it. My wife is very sensitive to things like chemical smells....and she has jumped in and help paint with Acro. The company started in Portland...long ago.

    They also manufacture the Devine line of paint for the founder of Devine Color.

    As far as priming, the house was painted about 8-10 years ago. There are some areas that I believe might really need primer, but I will know more after I power wash the walls. I'll post pics then. I will need to prime if we change the trim color...the green is dark and we are looking at a Mocha color as a possibility.

    I agree with the 2 thin coats being better than 1 thick one. How long would you wait between coats... back over at the time, or wait for a period of time and apply the second coat?

    Miller is an employee owned company and the employees/owners are all very helpful, knowledgeable and all have painting experience. The Rodda store employees, here at least, would have a hard time understanding why I wanted a roll of masking tape....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    greg, you`ve got great advice so far! i`d just like to second the don`t skimp on primer recomendation.....
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  9. #9
    I learned the hard way on spot priming on an interior wall that had major repairs on it. After the finish coat went on we had "blotches" all over the thing (that was before this place when I could get GOOD advice) Talked to a pro who told me to use TWO coats of tinted primer (wall was dark red) and then two finish coats, It was a ton of work, but the wall looks great.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Puyallup, WA
    You won't have to wait long before applying the second coat. It depends on a number of factors, such as temperature, humidity, direct vs. indirect sunlight, etc. Generally speaking, if the outside temp. is above 60 degrees, you can recoat in approximately 2-3 hours.

    The paint will dry to the touch in that amount of time. A word of caution, however, it won't really set up for a number of days. As you go around to paint the second coat, be judicious where you lean the ladder up against the freshly painted surface to avoid marring the surface.

    I don't necessarily believe you have to prime to change the trim color. My strong suspicion is that two applications of the top coat will cover just fine. I would only prime if there are adhesion issues or you're going to cover a stain with paint.

    Just my $.02 (I guess I'm up to $.06 now, huh?)

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