Veneering without a vacume press?

Mike Jory

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San Francisco East Bay Area
I'm adding veneer to the top of two small tables. The Wood Magazine I'm using describes using a vacume press and a bag.
Can I use heavy 1" MDF layers and bricks or something else? Or do I need to spring for the pump, bag, etc. and learn the vacume method?
Any ideas?
Thanks, Mike
 
mike, veneer has been applied for centuries without vacuum bags so of course you can! bricks might not offer enough pressure though..how big is "small"?
 
I recently saw a veneer press that uses a series of cauls above and below the pressing pieces. The cauls were spaced about 6" apart and fit into slots cut in vertical stringers (one on each side of the lower and upper pressing form). Each pressing form appeared to made from plywood or MDF and the entire assembly was just clamped to the workbench using the upper cauls. I threw the pic together to better describe what I meant. Sorry... I don't have Sketchup.
 

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Billy

I think I get what you're saying, but is your sketch upside down? That is, with the flat side pressing down on the veneer would the cauls drop down into those slots, and then clamps applies on each end of the caul to the workbench? If you are using a bench for the bottom of the press, why would you need to put another set of cauls underneath the glue up?

Jay
 
I've got a few different sizes of press frames that I transfer the screws back and forth to. I just put MDF or ply platens under the screws to spread the pressure and protect the veneer.
PressFrame1.jpgPressFrame2.jpgPressFrame5.jpgPressFrame4.jpg

Edit"
Forgot to add this:
Haven't looked around for these in a really long time, but last I looked a few years ago the best prices I've noticed on the screws are the imported type that these guys have
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=123-767
The Jorgenson one's I've got went up quite a bit since I bought mine.
 
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For many projects, the simplest method of applying veneer is using a typical clothing iron. I've done this on flat and, especially, curved surfaces. Apply a layer of yellow glue to the substrate and the veneer using a roller and let it become semi-transparent. Next, apply another coat of glue to the surfaces and let it partially dry. Position the veneer on the substrate and move the iron over the surface steadily and firmly, but don't press hard. With a little practice, you'll find you get an excellent bond.
 
Billy

I think I get what you're saying, but is your sketch upside down? That is, with the flat side pressing down on the veneer would the cauls drop down into those slots, and then clamps applies on each end of the caul to the workbench? If you are using a bench for the bottom of the press, why would you need to put another set of cauls underneath the glue up?

Jay

Sorry for the delay, Jay. I've been a little busy. Is the sketch upside down? Yes and no. The article I got it from used two of them. One on top and one on bottom. The one pictured goes on the bench as shown with the cauls in the slots... so it is actually the cauls sitting on the bench top. The one on the other side of the veneer sandwich is placed solid side down (opposite from that shown) and the cauls are clamped in place using the bottom of the bench top. The jig uses the flat, heavy bench top surface as the major player with the cauls and jig applying fairly equal pressure to the surface of the veneered piece.
 
Years ago we did veneering with a press in the same methods discribed and additionally, you can use Contact Cement much the same way you put down Plastic Laminent (Formica) Coat each piece allow to tacky and dry, press it on and roll it out.
 
Years ago we did veneering with a press in the same methods discribed and additionally, you can use Contact Cement much the same way you put down Plastic Laminent (Formica) Coat each piece allow to tacky and dry, press it on and roll it out.
Contact cement is really not the best solution for veneer. I've seen it used a lot in commercial shops, but much of the time it begins to bubble due to heat. It can and will release its bond with temperature changes. Formica is much thicker and stiffer than veneer, so contact cement is the right thing to use. If you want the veneer to last, use a more permanent method of application.
:thumb:
 
I agree with Bill.. I have seen several terrible veneering jobs done with contact cement, and none that looked good. I am sure somebody has had success, but it isn't as easy as using contact cement on formica.

A variant on Bill's trick with PVA glue... if you use white glue, it melts at a lower temperature than yellow glue, but best of all, if you say "oops" (or your preferred substitute word) you can reheat the white glue and shift things a couple times, while the yellow is primarily a "one shot" deal.
 
I didn't say it was "The" way, I said it was "Another" way.. I have made and had students make some rather nice Chess Boards using contact cement and they are still (or at least mine) in excellant condition. Where the edges are exposed the Contact Cement will show so usually it is reserved for an encased application. Problem most people have is poor application techniques. Too thick, too thin, old glue, too dry, too wet, wrong temperatures, not rolled out, etc. Like anything else there is a learning factor and success depends on the craftsman.

Another consideration is Animal Hide glues, those can be applied and the veneers rolled on, Ironed on or repaired.

The original question, I believe, concerned veneering w/o a vacuum bag as a tool, I was offering suggestions as how to obtain some veneering w/o elaborate equipment or tools or purchasing equipment or making jigs and fixtures. I read in the original post that Mike is not ready to embark on Jigs Fixtures and Vacuum bags & pumps.
 
Perhaps I can help... there's a tool for that now.:wave:

Whether you buy or build...a couple of well designed curved cauls will tackle this project with ease (assuming we're talking about flat-work). Using only a couple of clamps that you probably already own. I recently wrote a quick article about how they relate to veneer work at Wictor's site here. Hope this is helpful.
 
Ironing veneer

Timing is everything -- sometimes. :)

I'm finally getting back to working on furniture. Additional shop cabinets and benches will have to wait. LOML is ready for her chest of drawers! ;)

What does this have to do with the subject at hand? I'm applying walnut veneer to the toe base for the chest this morning and taking photos of various steps of the process. I plan to have a photo journal on my website by tomorrow. If you have a chance, my shop cam is active on my website now.

:)
 
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