Evil Hiss while lurking for solution

Bill Simpson

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My mom (88) biought a new home and her old one of 40 years is in great shape considering...Trying to fix it up for her to sell to pay for the new Patio home. Except her "Handyman" for want of a better name, mounted a wall bracket with Toggle bolts through fine Hickory Paneling. Two jagged 1/2" holes in the middle of a wall. Can't replace the Paneling but I do have a few pieces I took from a Bar that I dismantled. I was considering a 5/8" Bung I can cut with a Plug cutter set, using the scrap Paneling. But my delima is how to drill a smooth hole 5/8" in a gaping 1/2"+ hole. Any suggestions. I have a 5/8" twist drill bit as well as new 5/8" spade bit. But with the hole missing and on the wall and all, I am feared of making a larger mess. :dunno:

Any suggestions? :dunno:
 
You'd have to order a 5/8" long shank forstner bit, but would something like the drill bit guide with this jig from Rockler work?

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Mark and Greg, I considered that but it would appear to me to be an ugly "Dutchman" mess... Vaugh, I like the way you think. I do have a nice set of forstner bits but not long shank.. and a guide would do the trock. I think I will take a piece of 3/4 Plywood and bore a 5/8 hole through. then using doublesided tape place the piece over the ugly 1/2" hole. Insert the 5/8" forstner bit... results should be a clean hole.

I had planned to squirt in some Poly foam to fill the void and provide support for the bung. (older house not insulated) If I am careful I might be able to drill only deep enough to allow a shoulder to the full 1/4" thick paneling (1964 ventage) and trim the bung to fit.

I knew you guys could make my day. :thumb: I'll get my tools together, Making a trip down there in two weeks and If the house hasn't sold yet, That is what I will do.... Unless someone has a better idea.


Mark and Greg, The Phone company already cut a huge hole for the phone box and I considered a square plug for it (modern devices require only a small hole and not that giant cavern for wall phones.) I want to disconnect the Phone service at the wall as I have removed the bar and the wall phone seems useless in the middle of the room.

That is another lengthy story. From day one, my mom hated the bar. but she was told she couldn't get rid of it because there was no wall behind it or floor under it. (the way they built them back in the 60s) I knew I could do it but it required new carpet or flooring. Once before she had new carpet put in and called me after the fact so I couldn't do her job. A couple of years ago she called to say that she wanted new carpet and I said "HOLD THE PHONE Don't do anything till I get there."

Well I removed the Bar and used the paneling from the bar to patch the wall, I had to add a Wainscott (chair rail) to hide the joint. and I had to use the bar top to level the floor, A little Rock Hard Putty and all is fine and the carpet covers so well (but that was another story... I have pictures If interested) That Paneling is what I have in reserve to make the bungs for this patch. (Ain't it great we don't throw away "useful" pieces of wood? MY B-I-L throws away everything... he can afford to buy new, but then he is into Lionels not WWing... In fact, whilst my mom was moving, I found a box full of old train stuff and gave him my old station pieces for his birthday, a 52 year old present, see it isn't good to toss out goodies) )


Thanks guys for your help....:thumb:
 
Bill,
Maybe I'm missing something, but if you just want to repair the holes, why not cut a regular diamond shaped "dutchman"? It would most likely blend better than the circle, and shouldn't take any longer.

Wes
 
Bill, you could also use a plunge Router, (especially if you have a down cut spiral bit, or a bit with a down shear cutter). For a backer board/support for the Bung, for that size hole, use either two ice cream sticks OR one wider tongue depresser stick. tie a heavy thread around the middle of the stick and while holding the thread, push the stick into the hole and then pull it back up across the back of the hole with the thread. put some contact cement (or other glue) liberally on the stick and then pull the thread so the stick is tight against the back of the paneling and lay a pencil across the face side of the hole and tie the thread around it, pulling the stick tight against the back of the hole. When the glue is dry, cut the thread and you have a solid backer board for the Bung.
 
Use a Forstner bit & drill a hole in a piece of 1/4" masonite or other smooth 1/4" material using double stick tape center & stick it over the hole in the wall use this to guide your Forstner bit to drill the hole. I have done this many time for different reasons.
 
WES & Norm, I have used round Bungs before to hide hole and find they "Hide" much better than a Dutchman.

Bart, that is what I plan to do, but I thought a 3/4" piece would better guide the bit...

Norm, I like your backer Idea, however, I'm not sure if the wall is Paneling over air or if there is a Plaster board behind it. They seem really solid and even though it is full 1/4" paneling of hafe century ago, they don't flex so I think they have a backing, Will keep it in mind.

Thanks Guys:thumb:
 
WES & Norm, I have used round Bungs before to hide hole and find they "Hide" much better than a Dutchman.

Bart, that is what I plan to do, but I thought a 3/4" piece would better guide the bit...

Norm, I like your backer Idea, however, I'm not sure if the wall is Paneling over air or if there is a Plaster board behind it. They seem really solid and even though it is full 1/4" paneling of hafe century ago, they don't flex so I think they have a backing, Will keep it in mind.

Thanks Guys:thumb:

Bill, I guess I didn't 'splain the router thing very clear, because I meant to make a round hole for the bung by just centering the pluge router over the hole and plunging the bit to make a clean round hole, which many times is better than trying to use a drill bit of any kind because it leaves a cleaner edge with no splintering. You would have to be sure your router doesn't slip it's position on the wall as you plunge the bit in and back out though, but that shouldn't be a problem. Anyhow, good luck with whichever will work best for you.
 
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