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Thread: Putting Jaws on a Nova 2 Chuck

  1. #1

    Putting Jaws on a Nova 2 Chuck

    First of all, I apologize for what will be an Endless series of questions but I'm out here all by my lonesome except for my cyber buddies. So I'm sure that there will be a lot more questions as I puzzle this thing out. Sure is different from going to a workshop where everything was set up !

    While I'm waiting for the stand to arrive so I can set up the lathe I thought I'd clean up the chuck and add the jaws to it. I have been following the directions EXACTLY and are sure that I have the proper jaw on the proper number on the chuck. The directions say to Nip up the machine screws (I guess that is New Zealand speak for tighten ), then back off a half turn, then carefully close the chuck so the jaws are touching with even pressure, then tighten down all the screws.

    When I do this, the inside of the four jaws don't appear to form a circle, but a kind of "round square" . Is that because the geometry of the jaws has to accommodate a range of travel and the interior part isn't important?

    I haven't tightened anything yet, maybe a picture will help so someone can tell me if this normal or if I've got a lemon.

    Off to the shop with the camera

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Jay, if I am understanding what you are saying, the jaws are doing exactly what they are supposed to. In contraction mode, the jaws make full contact, i.e. completely touch the wood throughout their inner circumference when the jaw is ever so slightly open. This allows the full surface of the inner circumference of the jaw to bite into/grip the tenon or spigot of the piece of wood. That is the optimal point of contact when the entirety of each curved jaw surface contacts the wood.
    I may be getting a little older physically but mentally I'm still tarp as a shack.

  3. #3
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    When the jaws on my PSI chuck aren't fully closed, they give that "round square" appearance also. But, maybe, that is because it is Chinese made. Actually, since each of the jaws is a fixed curve, the inner 'circle' can't be perfectly round except at one position. And that is closed all the way. Once you get the "nipping" part figured out, you should be good to go round and round.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  4. #4
    Mike

    Thanks for the help

    Here are a couple of pics, one with and one without a flash.

    Do they look ok? Maybe I'm being too anal, funny I've NEVER been accused of that!

    But the instructions say that if they aren't properly aligned I"ll have runout problems so I'm trying to avoid potential problems as I start turning

    Thanks

    Jay
    Last edited by Jay Lock; 11-04-2007 at 12:23 PM.

  5. #5
    Looks just like my SN2 Jay!

  6. #6
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    Looks good Jay. I think you are fine.
    Bernie W.

    Retirement: Thats when you return from work one day
    and say, Hi, Honey, Im home forever.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.

  7. #7
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    Looks perfect, Jay.
    I may be getting a little older physically but mentally I'm still tarp as a shack.

  8. #8
    Thanks guys!

    On to the next question, the manual says that all chucks and faceplates must have a "side locking function"

    I put the adapter thread piece in the chuck and then installed the fiber insert and the set screw on the chuck

    But I don't see any similar feature on the adapter to lock it onto the spindle? Did I receive an improper adapter? It went into the chuck smooth as silk and the set screw locked down just fine but if I run the lathe in reverse (for sanding?) then won't the chuck spin off the lathe spindle unless it is locked on. I can see something like they are talking about on the face plate that came with the lathe.

    Jay

    Got to find some turners here so I won't bother you guys!

  9. #9
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    Jay, your chuck jaws are just fine, they like all other makes are designed to give best grip without marking the wood at a specific diameter (maximum area contact)

    If you set the jaws at this diameter you will find they form a perfect circle. You should aim to turn your spigots and recesses to these dimensions for best grip.

    Although these are a different make you can see what I mean in In this article

    EDIT: 50 mm (standard) Jaws for Nova & SuperNova chucks; Contracts onto 45-65 mm spigots. Expands into 50-75 mm dovetail recess.

    Optimum contact area is in the middle of these ranges.
    Last edited by Chas Jones; 10-08-2007 at 11:10 PM.
    Chas. just a traveller on the road of time.

    Bits & Pieces Gallery
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  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Knoll View Post
    ...but if I run the lathe in reverse (for sanding?) then won't the chuck spin off the lathe spindle unless it is locked on. I can see something like they are talking about on the face plate that came with the lathe.
    You are correct Jay, If your lathe is reversible then it is essential that you have some form of locking to prevent the chuck loosening, at high revs it will take milliseconds to come off the spindle.

    I had to drill and tap the rear collar on my chuck to fit a locking screw when I converted the lathe to provide a reversible mode.

    On the old style super nova chuck I had I don't think the hexagon flange nut was wide enough to fit a locking screw.
    Chas. just a traveller on the road of time.

    Bits & Pieces Gallery
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