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Thread: Nuther bench question

  1. #1
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    Nuther bench question

    Looking through the Workbench Book, I've been wondering about how to best support the RH end of long pieces. I'll probably start adding the hardwood edging on my BB ply core benchtop this weekend. I've got one idea that I've loosely taken from a couple different things in the book. If I decide to go this route, I'll have to route for this before I start mounting anything else under the top. This is going on a Adjust-A-Bench leg set, so I wont be able to do anything with a fixed bottom end like a regular board jack. So one idea goes something like this
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    Haven't totally figured out what the clamping or support mechanism on the front vertically sliding block would be, but I think that could be dealt with in a number of ways. But my idea is that the front block would be adjustable vertically and tightened to the back block with a fixture knob. The back block would slide right/left in the sliding dovetail with an open pocket on the RH end so the whole thing could be removed.

    Or... just put dog holes on the front edge of the bench and use one of these LV surface clamps ??
    http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...59&cat=51&ap=3

    Or.... just toss a parallel jaw clamp across the top of the bench and clamp a board in place??

    Any thoughts?
    --------------------------------------------
    Link to my ongoing ClearVue DC Install on CV's site: http://www.gallery2.clearvuecyclones...s-Mini-CV1400/

  2. #2
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    KISS method.

    I use a sliding deadman and added a series of holes in the face of the bench where I can put a dowel. Simple, effective and it works.

    God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway,
    the good fortune to run into the ones I do,
    and the eyesight to tell the difference.


    Kudzu Craft Lightweight Skin on frame Kayaks.
    Custom built boats and Kits

  3. #3
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    I like to keep it simple, too. I've got a block of wood screwed to the underside of my bench near the tail that I pivot out when needed. With adjustable height legs this seems to suffice for comfortable positions. If I need something lower then I pull up a small stool and let the piece sit on it, aided by a screw clamp.
    Mini Max Tool Acquisition Mediator.
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  4. #4
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    on the slightly more complicated side.. check out the nov issue of popular woodworking, there's an article on how to upgrade your workbench, and he shows a t-track jig which was pretty slick.

    there's even a video of his upgrades
    Last edited by Ned Bulken; 10-25-2007 at 05:13 PM.
    -Ned

  5. #5
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    Jeff - Nice bench! Thanks for the picture, lots of good ideas there. The more pictures I see of benches, the more I'm glad that my maple for benchmaking will be at least a year to dry - gives me more tim to ponder and drool while looking at other benches.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ned Bulken View Post
    there's even a video of his upgrades
    Oops - the URL had an extra "http://" in it. Here's the one that worked for me:

    Thanks for the link!

  7. #7
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    Jeff - That's a nice nutcracker you've got there. Holes in the bench face would certainly be easiest thing to do, which was why I was wondering about using that LV doohickey. Haven't run across any threads from anyone using one that way yet, but they show pics on LV's site used that way.
    But is there a relationship between the dowels and your sliding deadman? Are both used together for some things? Or is it dowel supports + the leg vise for narrower stuff, and deadman+leg vise for wider?
    A takeoff on your deadman might work too. It would eliminate the 2-block idea which would simplify things. It would also mean that my DT slot would be in the 1-7/8" thick hardwood edging instead of into the BB Ply core, which I think is a lot better idea anyway. So if I made something that was only suspended at the top end, maybe about 12" high with 4 to 6 holes for the movable support arm, do you think that would be effective? Or too much flex due to the free end at the bottom? I guesstimating about a 3/4" wide DT and would still probably want a wider pocket at the far end for removal.

    Sam
    Does your pivoting block mean you only get support for boards that are the full bench length? Or is there more than one spaced out along the length? I would think around 3' and less, the vise alone would be enough, but wonder about boards in the 3 ft to full bench area.

    I'll have to check out the video later. Cant seem to get around bandwidth issues we're having here at work today to watch it.
    --------------------------------------------
    Link to my ongoing ClearVue DC Install on CV's site: http://www.gallery2.clearvuecyclones...s-Mini-CV1400/

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Burton View Post
    Oops - the URL had an extra "http://" in it. Here's the one that worked for me:

    Thanks for the link!
    thanks for the fix... and i fixed the original too.

    I'm a long way from building a knuckledragger bench, but that's a pretty neat pair of modifications. I especially like that the vertical part is just a 'drop in'.
    -Ned

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Shepard View Post
    .... is there a relationship between the dowels and your sliding deadman? Are both used together for some things?
    Never used them together. The dowels are smaller board typically. Anything much wider than 3-4" gets to tall. I shift to the DeadMan then.

    I have clamped Doors in the vice using the deadman. It works well in most applications. The only thing and it's not a complaint, is that long boards are floppy sometimes on the loose end. The clamps might you showed might work there, but I haven't really had a need for them.

    If I made something that was only suspended at the top end, maybe about 12" high with 4 to 6 holes for the movable support arm, do you think that would be effective? Or too much flex due to the free end at the bottom?.
    Nope, it would be to floppy. If you going to put any pressure on it you want ti sturdy. Especially if you do any hand tool work. I just mounted to board with dados in them. Cut a tongue on the deadman and screwed it place. It's simple and effective.
    God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway,
    the good fortune to run into the ones I do,
    and the eyesight to tell the difference.


    Kudzu Craft Lightweight Skin on frame Kayaks.
    Custom built boats and Kits

  10. #10
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    Well I've decided to do the holes in the edge and the LV clamp. Seems about the fastest, easiest route and I discovered something this evening that is a bit of a setback. Looks like I need to take the top back to the wide belt sander outfit before I can attach the hardwood edging. I had two 2" thick layers glued together and had those run on their wide-belt then glued those together. Lost about 1/8" on each, but I pulled the dial calipers out tonight to figure out how wide I need to rip the hardwood. Ran the calipers all the way around the perimeter and watched the variations on the dial. I've got 3-9/16 at the thinnest location and 3-3/4 at the thickest. Crud. A couple of the highest spots have a miniscule gap at the corners between the 2 layers though 98% of the edges are nice and tight. Looks like I got some uneven clamping pressure during that last glue-up or more epoxy in the joint in some spots. Anyway, I think I need to get one last pass done on the completed glue-up first. Now I just need to find a pickup I can borrow Saturday morning and maybe a friend that's into hernias.
    --------------------------------------------
    Link to my ongoing ClearVue DC Install on CV's site: http://www.gallery2.clearvuecyclones...s-Mini-CV1400/

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