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Thread: Forrest WWII Review - GREAT Blade for cutting Aluminum

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up Forrest WWII Review - GREAT Blade for cutting Aluminum

    I know this because....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Not satisfied with just mitering some 8/4 purpleheart, I decided to really put the blade to a test, althought the purpleheart was probably harder. Now this wasn't a very fair test as half of the cut was made about 5 years ago with a Freud 80 tooth. But I think when my sub-conscious finally has me sawing the JDS in half so's I can get a Jessem or Incra, this WWII is going to work just fine. One of these days, I may just learn to slide that fence over when mitering.
    Last edited by Doug Shepard; 10-27-2007 at 07:43 PM.
    --------------------------------------------
    Link to my ongoing ClearVue DC Install on CV's site: http://www.gallery2.clearvuecyclones...s-Mini-CV1400/

  2. #2
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    Sometime "left tilt" NOT so good....

    But you gave me a good chuckle.. LOL

  3. #3
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    And you don't even need to file the edge of the cut - just look at that smooth finish. Forget about those TCG non-ferrous blades, you've found the way to go!

    Glad it was just a tool and not fingers.

  4. #4
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    Hmmmm........I guess I've been doing this wrong all these years, since I always use the fence and the mitre guage on the right side of the blade on a left tilt saw. 'Course, I've never been one to search for Excitement in the shop either. (Truth is, I guess I'm just chicken, when it comes to having my hands on the side a blade is tilted toward)

    Glad it was only the mitre guage you were testing the blade on since it cut so good.

  5. #5
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    I think there are less expensive blades than a WWII, for cutting aluminum out there....

    Glad you are OK!
    We create with our hands in wood what our mind sees in thought.
    Disclosure: Formerly was a part-time sales person & instructor at WoodCraft in Buffalo, NY.
    www.tinyurl.com/thewoodshoppe

  6. #6
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    Hmmmmm...... I think I'll file this in the "Misery loves company" drawer as my Rockler miter gauge bears a similar marking.
    Have no idea how it got there.
    Last edited by Rennie Heuer; 10-29-2007 at 01:17 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Norm
    I've cut miters on both sides of the blade but I've had this gauge for a long time and using it on the left side is a pretty ingrained habit. This particular miter gauge doesn't really translate all that well to the right side. I think it was probably designed before left-tilts saws were more common. There's about 24" of extrusion that could easily be slid over far enough, but there's also an inner extrusion that can be pulled out for longer cuts with a stop that's screwed to the end. I'm not positive if that inner one can be slid in from the other end or not. Cant recall if it travels on any non-symetrical ridges inside the bigger one or if it's just an open square inside. But the main drawback to right side use is the measuring scale on the top for setting the flip down stops would be backwards or just downright useless. So I'm just in the habit of using it on the left. Just have to remember to slide the durn fence about 2" to the left (about a 5 second tool-less operation) before mitering. I keep my fingers well away from the blade though.
    My rip fence is definitely on the right however.
    --------------------------------------------
    Link to my ongoing ClearVue DC Install on CV's site: http://www.gallery2.clearvuecyclones...s-Mini-CV1400/

  8. #8
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    Yeah Doug, from your description I can see where using that one in the right slot would be a PITB. With the "Teriffic Memory" I have any more, I sure don't need one of those, 'cause I KNOW what kinds of Terror I could cause with it. Just be careful now, 'n don't test anything but alminum.

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