Kitchen Benchtop

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57
Location
Hamilton, New Zealand
As I mentioned in my other thread (Proof!) I am going to make a new set of bench tops for the kitchen, as the old ones are failing.

Water under the Formica around the bowl has made the top swell. Its chipboard so its sucking up water like a sponge.

I went out to my good friends workshop to pick up some left over roughsawn 4 x 2 Rimu. Google New Zealand Rimu if you want to know more about the wood or have a look at this site
http://www.treeworkx.co.nz/timber.htm.

Cost = $0.00

Below are some photos of the raw material stacked in the van. I had to cut the pieces to fit in the van as most of them were 16 to 18 feet in length. So what you see are boards that are all between 7 to 9 feet in length. I have included some photos of my friends planer and thicknesser as its old. WWI era I think or maybe earlier? Not sure about the exact age, and some shots of the Rimu machined up and ready for construction, as well as proof that I do get my workshop dirty from time to time:laugh2:

I will do a running commentary on this project as it progresses.
 

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Now THAT's a jointer! :eek: :D Forget the aircraft carrier analogy...I've see towns smaller than that thing.

The wood is looking promising. I'll be looking forward to following along on the build, Ralph. :lurk:
 
Over the past few days I have machined up the wood and re-sawn it into smaller strips for laminating.

This exercise was made a lot easier now I have the 6" jointer in the shop.

I assembled and glued the top in two halves, ran them both through the thicknesser to get even sized pieces and then glued the halves together.

There is still a surround strip to be put on but this will be done later.

There is a slight upwards hump running the length of the top in the middle. I was hoping to avoid this with clamping both under and over. But recycled rimu has a mind of its own it would seem.

Once dry I sanded the top relatively smooth up to 150 grit and applied a sealer coat of poly. This is just to protect the top from any stray grease and oil and it helps pop the grain to see of the color will look good.

Next week I will take it to a local cabinet maker and smooth it off so thats its level. Then it will be just a matter of cutting out the opening and putting on the edging.
 

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Looks great Ralph, too bad about the "bump" it certainly looks like you did everything you could to get the glueup flat. Good thing you've got some alternatives for flattening that beast, I wouldn't want to do it with a plane

Looking forward to shots of the finished job

Jay
 
I have sanded the initial sealer layer back with some 240 and the color and grain is looking excellent. Should be even better with 3 or 4 coats on it. No stain used on this , just clear poly and the timber.
 

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Ralph,

That is going to be a very nice kitchen counter top. When we had our house built 4 years ago I wanted to do the counter tops like you are doing. Too many things on the plate at the time (and now) and never got it done. Seeing your project is once again kindling the fire. Oh and nice score on the wood.
 
More Progress.

Today I shaped and glued on the front and side edge strips. These strips have a 7 degree bevel on them so that fluids are maintained on the bench and not the floor. Once again my trusty jointer was put to work. I am loving the extra things I can easily do now that I have this machine.

The strips were sanded and stained a dark Kauri Stain to offset and highlight the bench color.

After allowing the glue to set I cut out the inserts hole and the proceeded to sand to 150 grit.


This was followed but a filler coat of 75% poly. The next 4 coats will also be thinned to 75% as this improves the eveness of the drying and gives a smoother satin look to the top.

Between each coat of poly I will sand @ 400 grit until the final two coats which will be sanded @ 800 grit.

To finish I will steel wool and buff the final coat. This should build up a very smooth and satin lustre that will look nice. I prefer this finish to a full gloss as it looks more natural (closer to a buffed danish oil finish).

Once this is done I will cut the piece from the insert into 2 cutting boards. These will be finished with a food safe oil. If I can find some I will mount these boards on stainless rubber based feet. Should look kinda smart too. On of these boards will be routed on the underside so that it will fit over the sink bowl snugly for doing the veges.

Once all thats done I will make the servery section as well. This will presents so challenges as its going to have either rounded corners or will be l shaped and semi circular as well.

I am taking suggestions on the best oils for cutting boards. I would like to try walnut oil, but to date have been unable to find a shop that has it.

The photos I have included should explain things reasonbly well.

Any questions just yell ( I might be using the machines:D )
 

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