All the idea is actually a "feather board" but instead of the "feathers", I'm using rollers (or wheels) that are spring loaded by a metal bar and keeps the workpiece pressed to the fence before entering the blade.
Because of the distance between the wheels, the workpiece is held firmly pressed to the fence from the beginning of the fence till almost the blade.
To make it even more effective, I tilted the wheels down and the result is that the workpiece is also pushed and held down to the table.
As you will see, it's very easy and fast to install/adjust/remove (I replaced the wing nuts with knobs) and I almost don't make any rip cut without those wheels.
When the workpiece is passing the table edge, I just grab the push block or lately, long push stick (I can use any long scrap because I need only to push forward) so, my body and hand are far away from the "war zone".
A word about push sticks...I've seen on the Internet that people are pushing the workpiece at a point close to the fence...I think that it's much better to push at a point that is closer to the blade because we create another vector that tends to push the workpiece toward the fence and not toward the blade back teeth...