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Thread: Cutting mitered frame on table saw

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007

    Cutting mitered frame on table saw

    Good day

    Before I post another WIP, I would like to share with you my way of cutting 45 frames.

    To cut mitered frame that all the 4 corners will fit, we need 3 conditions:
    1. every two opposite members must be exactly the same length.
    2. The miters must be cut exactly at 45.
    3. The cuts must be at 90.

    The above conditions are for a perfect world but...not always the blade is at "dead" 90 and the sled is not always cutting "dead" 45...

    Another problem is, when the members are 4~5 feet (or more) long....we have to add a long fence, just to clamp the "stop" somewhere behind us and not only but, the stop must be wide at list as the member width and must be at 90 to the fence.

    So, I tilted my head to the left (to concentrate all the IQ in one spot ) and:

    Instead of messing up with angles and protractors, I'm using a big, dedicated triangle.

    The cutting method is “Left” and “Right” to overcome any small deviations from 45 and 90.

    The "stop" (or "limiter") is positioned at the front and that eliminates the need for a long fence or any fence...

    One important point....
    I'm cutting the frame members to “final dimensions”, before cutting the 45.
    As you will see on the pictures, the triangle vertex is positioned at the center of the kerf, which means that, every cut will shorten the member by a kerf width and, because we are cutting each member from both sides, each member will be shortened by 1 kerf width.

    In simple words...if you are using an 1/8" kerf blade, add 1/8" to the “final dimension” of each member to get your planned dimensions after cutting.

    On the last two pics, you can see the latest version of the sled.


    Attachment 15756Attachment 15757Attachment 15758Attachment 15759Attachment 15760

    Attachment 15761Attachment 15762Attachment 15763Attachment 15764Attachment 15765
    Last edited by Niki Avrahami; 12-28-2007 at 05:25 PM.

  2. #2
    brilliant....and I like the corner clamp blocks as well
    daiku woodworking

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    San Antonio, Texas
    Niki, I really like the way this jig allows for slight variations and still gives nice tight miters. This one is on my "must build" list. Even better, it gave me some ideas for a jig for cutting the pieces for segmented turnings.

  4. #4

    Miter Jig

    Excellent post. All I need now is a source for those hold downs on the last picture.

    Thanks, DKT

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Thank you so much for you kind replies

    It makes me to feel good that you like it

    You don't have to go far for those "Poor man hold down clamps"....

    Just buy $1 clamp (this one is 4")....a few "bangs" on the fixed jaw till it comes out....weld it to a 5/32" iron angle....drill two holes and...screw it on whatever you want...

    Attachment 15294

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Delton, Michigan
    niki are you a teacher for a profession? if not you sure would make a good one you can get threw my thick head every time.. where are you from? must be some real good minerals in the water in your area thanks for this and the other posts you have shown us, picture too.
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Thank you so much Larry

    No, I'm not a teacher but looong time ago I was an instructor in the aviation industry.

    I live in Poland (before - Israel and Japan) and you are correct, we have a lot of "minerals" in the water.....I have to clean the hot water kettle every 3 days


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