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A home theater

I've been quietly lurking on this thread, but figured it was about time to say it's looking good, Shaz. I'm guessing this is not going into a mobile home? :p

:lurk:
 
Ed Nelson said:
Looking good Shaz! 54' radius huh? I can't understand why you didn't use a trammel!:rofl:
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Hi Ed:wave:,
The cars in front of my shop kept running over my pencil! :rolleyes::rofl: And as far as the boxes I made 5, joined them up to make 3 and the joint you are correct, the joint is behind the columns or actually right at the inner ( nearer the center of the piece) edge.:thumb:.. S


Chris Mire said:
shaz,

as for the # of boxes, right off i would think three, (Hi Chris:wave:, Actually I made 5 ) if i can read the dim right the mid section is 6' approx (yes, 5' 9 1/2" ), and the sides are 5' approx ( actually only about 34 1/2" , so the optimal choice would be to hide the seams behind the smaller columns, ( you are absolutely correct on this matter :thumb: ) but if i know you then i'll be surprised at the way you were able to make the boxes smaller and still make it look good. ( Thanks! .. S)

as for the bead on the door, if i understand what you mean, then you are saying you'd have a bead similiar to the ones on the sides of the smaller columns on the inside of the door. ( yes, only the bead on the small columns are 3/4" diameter and the one on the door is only 1/4" diameter) 3 ways that i know to accomplish this.

1. make the rails and stile and run the bead on the edge. miter the joints and make the doors like picture frame. in my opinion probably the toughest way to get it done and have a tight strong joint. (This is a possibility I have used at times in the past)

2. make the doors like regular rail and stile paneled doors, and make a separate bead to be mitered and attached with glue and pins. ( This is also an option that would work)

3. run the bead on the rails and stiles like #1 but run the pieces like regular rail and stiles, then miter the bead section on the rails where it meets the stiles, ( I am with you to this point!) then use a 45 degree chamfer bit with no bearing to route the bead off the section of the stile that mates with the rail. this is similiar to what i see done on some exterior doors. ( you do express more than one way to do this and that I think is so important. It is that creative mind that takes you exciting places. One problem with the door plan you and Ed offer is shown in this sample I showed the client. There is more to the door than first imagined:eek:)
theater center sections 12 07 012_renamed_27031.jpg

hope half of that made some sense.

ok, so when do we get to hear how many cabs and how you're gonna do the doors??? huh huh huh

chris
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Ed Nelson said:
Yea Shaz, How'd we score on the test???
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Vaughn McMillan said:
I've been quietly lurking on this thread, but figured it was about time to say it's looking good, Shaz. I'm guessing this is not going into a mobile home? :p ( Always appreciate your input Vaughn, never a dull moment!:D)

:lurk:
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Okay Ed and Chris, Test scores are in:eek: !!!!!!
You both said 3, considering it not to be a well stated question you both get 100! I actually built 5 as seen in this rendition. The blue lines seperate the cabinets I built and the red lines show where they are to be connected at the final destination.
current plan with color divisions (600 x 453).jpg
Hopefully you can see the place where the red and blue lines are, this is the joint where I have used 1 1/2" machine bolts with washers into a "Lock nut?" so I can break it down and realign on site. The single blue lines nearer the center were cabinets screwed together with 1 1/4" deerwood screws:)thumb:) and intended to stay together from now on.
So in reality you were both right with the number and the joint position.
Now about those doors?:rolleyes:
Shaz :)
 
thanks shaz....

hmmm, that door sample creates more of a problem. i guess the best way to answer your question is to build them the way you built the sample :p

hanging out waiting to learn something new..:D

chris

ps. that sample looks great, it gives a better representation of what is to come!!
 
I like the second one with the crown molding! Gives a real interesting look. Don't know what the clients chose without knowing their tastes, but that's the one I'd choose.
 
When I do samples I do them so that I like them, that way whatever they choose I am happy with it.
They did choose the first photo. :rolleyes:
Today, ( job # 1) other than cutting a shelf, banding it with screen mold to match existing, lacquer primer and an alkyd top coat,... ( job #2 )building a box for a remote receiver and cable box, with holes for electrical outlets to be installed tomorrow, ( job #3, the theater) then starting the trim and prep work, s4s the stiles and rails for the theater doors and figuring the frieze detail to span about 156" unsupported with an 18" soffet, worked out okay. I had help, Ed came in.( Not Ed Nelson, he is my silent partner, well not really silent:rolleyes::rofl: my vicarious partner!:D:rofl:)
Since we have a curve front, with all walls perpendicular to the back, all the doors would be hung with a 3 to 5 degree angle. Thinking it best to add wedges, I did that very thing.
On the very end of this cabinet the base of the next cabinet needs a place to die. Here I took time to cut a slot in the edge of the
column and the plinth so that the kill board ( for lack of a better term) could slide in behind and be wide enough to catch the return from the next cabinet. Make sense
 

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In one of these photos you can see the hexhead 1 1/2" bolt that will allow us to disassemble at that wall. There are others, just hidden.
base cab through dental blocking (3) (450 x 600).jpg

This pic shows the end cabinet on the left. See the kill block in position, finishing off the left side of the cabinet and allowing an easy return for the next cabinet's base to return into the kill block. Reason being the next cabinet is out about 30" and the kill block is at 24"
base cab through dental blocking (1) (450 x 600).jpg
Here is a photo of the front with our progress so far. See the facets where the doors will fit?
base cab through dental blocking (450 x 600).jpg
 
Wow - that's a major project. You're really moving along on that, also, but I guess that's the difference between a professional like you and a hobbyist like me. It'd take me a year to build that.

Looking good!!

Mike
 
Ed Nelson said:
Looks good Shaz! You move a lot quicker than I do on these big projects!
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Hi Ed :wave:,
That is a compliment, thank you. I have made so many mistakes over the years and tried to remember them as I hate it when they happen, kinda feel like somebody or some thing got the best of you.:eek: ...S

Mike Henderson said:
Wow - that's a major project. You're really moving along on that, also, but I guess that's the difference between a professional like you and a hobbyist like me. It'd take me a year to build that.
Hi Mike :wave:,
It is a large project but consider working 8-9-10 hours a day and 4-5-6 on Saturday. Problem solving is a challenge for drive time or when you can't sleep. It may seem big but "divide and conquer" and each part is not so bad.:rolleyes:..It is the kind of job you could do if you decided to. I believe that, in less than a year!:D ...S
Looking good!!

Mike
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Vaughn McMillan said:
:lurk:

I really enjoy watching someone who knows what they're doing.
Hi Vaughn,
Thanks for your input and your vote of confidence. I sometimes seems that without input like this that I am writing a rather shoddy tutorial to an uninterested mass. :dunno:...Shaz

Oh...and I would have picked frieze #1, too.
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I need to download some photos using pixresizer ( thanks Vaughn )
and I will be back.
S
 
Today, Friday was a day to work on loose ends. every so often you need to go in and tighten up some of the little details that don't show much. There are somethings that were left in the heat of cutting and building that needed worked out, like the supports for the screen, a cabinet back or two, the actual decktop plan and some of the parts for the doors. It will be slow for the next few days as a gift or two need finished up.
Here Ed is building the support for the screen.
ed makes screen supports.jpg
They were needed as the screen is 67" tall and the surround has to be all painted before the screen goes into its final resting place. 3" at the top and 3" at the bottom of the screen are hidden therefore, since the cabinets will be set with the frieze in place and a 6" void at the back of the soffit ( to accept the 5 1/2'' deep screen, I needed to figure out a way to get the screen in behind the cabinet and the soffit. Thus it becomes an "insert into hole A straighten, bench press through holes A, C and E, then while hoisted slide supports into position.:doh: ( hate things when they are not a one man job!:rofl::rofl:)
Shaz:)
If you don't understand and want to, let me know.
 

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hey shaz, i actually wondered earlier what the big notches were in the backs of the partitions, now i think i understand a little better.

this is going to be a nice piece.

question. in this home, is it new construction? i ask because i wonder why the designer wouldn't get the cabinet maker who did the kitchen and bath cabinets to do this as well. although, in the end, i am glad you got the job :D

chris
 
Chris Mire said:
hey shaz, i actually wondered earlier what the big notches were in the backs of the partitions, now i think i understand a little better.
( Hi Chris :wave:,
I needed a large notch like that as the frieze is out away from the wall about 24" so the screen has to be inserted diagonally, bottom first. The deck top will be a 4 piece unit. #1 will be the front piece, curved to match the front profile on the front edge yet flat on it's back side. It will run the full length. #2 and 3 are small short pieces that will fill the space under the fixed side mounted pillars which will help determine the open width for the screen. Clear as mud? The 4th piece will be a drop in once the screen is set in place....S Hopefully it will become clear as we progress. :D)

this is going to be a nice piece.

question. in this home, is it new construction? ( This was a spec home that has been done over by the decorator, once purchased by the client as their new home. ) i ask because i wonder why the designer wouldn't get the cabinet maker who did the kitchen and bath cabinets to do this as well. although, in the end, i am glad you got the job :D ( Thank you Chris, I too am happy with this job.)

chris
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Well Chris, you raise an interesting question, Why not let the already there cabinet makers, who were doing the kitchens, vanities, and closet built-ins do the theater, same question if it were an entertainment center?

I can only give you the feed back I have gotten from the gentleman who sells the audio visual equipment and does the pre wiring, programming and the works. "They just don't realize that it comes down to 1/8". Most of the kitchen/ bathroom guys just think it is another set of boxes, which is basically true.

In the end it is the little things like holes for wiring holes, and heat, access to the wiring and plugs, stops for short shelves in deep cabinets ( so that pushing in a dvd does not push the component and the shelf off the adjustable clips), determining the right sizes for needed cavities for speakers ( considering that they get doors+ another inner frame wrapped with grillle cloth which decreases the open space in the door for the drivers to play through) etc.
I think alot of guys look at it like it is a kitchen with box box 24" diswasher box, sink box box corner fill return box box box. Screw that together and give me the money:D:rofl:. OH, 36" for the refridgerator! :thumb:.
To do it right, I am like "Columbo" annoying people with question after question about driver sizes, heat issues, age and health related problems ( inconsiderate to plan a dvd player chest high if the person has a shoulder problem or a vhs too low if they are getting older) , storage needs, and their desire for photographs and nic nacs. I really believe this is a niche market. just my opinion, of course. ...("pearls" :) )...:rofl:
Shaz:)
 
I'm watching and....learning...

For me, it looks like something from the "Fantasy world"...:eek:

Thanks for taking the time to post

Regards
niki
 
Robert Schaubhut said:
Well Chris, you raise an interesting question, Why not let the already there cabinet makers, who were doing the kitchens, vanities, and closet built-ins do the theater, same question if it were an entertainment center?

I can only give you the feed back I have gotten from the gentleman who sells the audio visual equipment and does the pre wiring, programming and the works. "They just don't realize that it comes down to 1/8". Most of the kitchen/ bathroom guys just think it is another set of boxes, which is basically true.

In the end it is the little things like holes for wiring holes, and heat, access to the wiring and plugs, stops for short shelves in deep cabinets ( so that pushing in a dvd does not push the component and the shelf off the adjustable clips), determining the right sizes for needed cavities for speakers ( considering that they get doors+ another inner frame wrapped with grillle cloth which decreases the open space in the door for the drivers to play through) etc.
I think alot of guys look at it like it is a kitchen with box box 24" diswasher box, sink box box corner fill return box box box. Screw that together and give me the money:D:rofl:. OH, 36" for the refridgerator! :thumb:.
To do it right, I am like "Columbo" annoying people with question after question about driver sizes, heat issues, age and health related problems ( inconsiderate to plan a dvd player chest high if the person has a shoulder problem or a vhs too low if they are getting older) , storage needs, and their desire for photographs and nic nacs. I really believe this is a niche market. just my opinion, of course. ...("pearls" :) )...:rofl:
Shaz:)
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I'm glad Chris asked the question and really like the response! Thanks. It really is the details that make the difference between a good piece of work and a great piece of work! I'm still learning the questions to ask!:eek:
 
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