Cleat Mounted Clamp Rack

glenn bradley

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After a few variations over the years I have settled on this assembly as a 'standard' cleat mounted clamp rack. The width and depth of the slots will hold K-Body to 4" F-clamps. Eight clamps per 15 3/8" wide fixture. Thought this might help keep some folks from reinventing the wheel. The wall mounted cleat is shown in the pic and in the file.
 

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Well, here's a lot to say about a little bit. I wanted the spacing consistent so here's what I did:

Cut up some blanks for the piece that will actually hold the clamps and laminated some hardboard on top to take the abuse. I used some old pegboard that I had laying around. Hey, they're just clamp racks.

1-Blanks.jpg

I made some setup blocks to perform the offset and tried them out, shimming till I got consistent spacing without an accumulated error.

2-Slot-setup-2.jpg

Now that I'm ready I place the edge of the first blank against the blade to determine my zero position.

3-Slot-1st-pos.jpg

Clamp the blank and use the setup blocks to position my stop block.

4-Blocks-1st-pos.jpg

Slide the blank over and make the first cut (I'm using the dummy here to give you a better idea of where I'm headed).

5-First-cut.jpg

Clamping the blank I use a setup block to reposition my stop block.

6-First-block.jpg

Remove the block, slide the blank over and make the second cut.

7-Second-cut.jpg

Now just do that a whole bunch.

8-Continue-cuts.jpg

Man I can be a long winded son of a gun about nothing, can't I? Cont'd ===>
 
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I wanted the back of the slots rounded so to same some effort I drilled them.

9-Setup-DP.jpg

I use the same setup blocks to shift the blank across the DP table.

A-Same-blocks-DP.jpg

Then choose your weapon to finish the cuts. I used the BS but a handsaw would work fine. I used this sequence so the little cutouts wouldn't become projectiles if suddenly set free by the last cut on the TS.

B-Finish-cuts.jpg

Over to the router table for a little chamfering. I used a small chamfer bit that is normally used in the Colt because the bearing would fit down the slots. The chamfers, of course, keep the edges from getting beat.

C-Chamfer.jpg

I used a 2 degree slant and this seems more than adequate.

D-Angle-cut.jpg

I used 2 1/2" screws in 3 spots. This is a dry-fit and the parts will be glued if this works out OK.

E-Screws-1.jpg

Looks pretty much like the SU drawing at the start of this thread. All dimensions remained as designed in the drawing if that will help out.

F-Like-SU.jpg

And I'll just hang it here for a photo. I can put this and his five soon-to-be-completed buddies anywhere along the cleats. I plan to drill a hole for a pin that will go through the main board and protrude just under the wall mounted cleat. This will prevent the rack from getting lifted up off the cleat and spilling clamps all over the floor (or on my foot). The weight of the clamps holds the rack securely but I do empty my current racks as I'm working and I just want to be safe.

G-That-works.jpg

I'll take this guy apart, finish the rest of the other parts and glue them up and seal them. The six units will take care of 48 clamps.
 
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Man, that's gonna be slick, Glenn. Nice job on the pictorial, too. Thanks for going to the trouble to post it.

I considered French cleats for my clamp rack, but I've got limited wall space, so there was really only one logical place for the rack to go. I ended up just lag-screwing it to the wall.
 
I ended up just lag-screwing it to the wall.

Thanks Vaughn. My current racks are lagged to the wall just as you describe. That and poor lighting were part of what drove me to re-do the one wall and mount the cleats. I plan to do the opposite wall as well but something will have to force me into it ;-)
 
Glenn,

Great idea, thanks for posting. Looks like the wall cleat is about 5' off the floor?

Thanks. One at about 7', one just shy of 5' and one to go at a height that will allow "floor" standing cabinet height surfaces. I pre-made all the cleats and stand-off blocks so I could add them to the opposite wall once I get to it as well. I've already found it very convenient to be able to move things around quickly and easily as I settle in to the new layout.
 
Just kind of an update as to how this system is working out. I needed a little more room on the opposite wall so I just tossed a couple more fixtures on this wall and loaded the stuff there. It should get more organized and static once the opposite wall is done. I still have to put the lower cleat on this wall and I'm already talking about the other one??? Dreamer.
 

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Hi Glenn :wave:,
Just noticed this tutorial on your clamp rack. Well done, both the walk through and the final product. It is a very nice and practical way of organizing the clamps.
Thanks,
Shaz :)
 
I just noticed this thread as well, how'd I miss it before :huh: :dunno:

Great job Glenn, and timely, as I've got to build a clamp rack similar to what you have done for my modest collection of Bessey clamps

I have ask a question or two, first, why did you not use a dado blade do make the cut?

Just thinking off the cuff here, but if you drilled the holes first, and then used a dado stack, there would be no pieces to become projectiles........:dunno:

Second, could you not use a finger joint type of jig to do this, without all the spacer blocks?

Like I said, I'm just noodling this a bit, no one can argue with how well your racks have turned out.

Cheers! :wave:
 
I have ask a question or two, first, why did you not use a dado blade do make the cut?

The slots are 3" deep and with the sled base thickness I couldn't get the cut; therefor, the projectile issue.

Second, could you not use a finger joint type of jig to do this, without all the spacer blocks?

Absolutely, that is how I made the predecessors to these. The slots were only 2" deep though.

There is probably a flaw somewhere in my thinking (usually is :doh:) but in the past I have made racks of a certain size to fit a certain class of clamps. Then I would have to add another one because I bought two more of that size or whatever. I eventually had a bunch of non-similar shapes and sizes screwed all over the walls. My goal here was to build a repeatable 'thing' that would handle 90% of the clamp types I have.

Now what happens of course is I have an almost-tight fit on the Bessy's and an almost-loose fit on the little 4" guys. The width is very good on the larger clamps but a little wasteful on the smaller ones. On the upside I have a fixture that I could duplicate and manufacture pretty quick and I can make more of them just as quick if (or when) the need pops up. :thumb:
 
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Great post Glenn. I did something similar sans cleat for my bessy’s.

Bruce you have a nice rack! :eek:

Glenn, i do like the cleat idea. WTG!

joe

p.s. i built one similar to Bruce's a few years ago, only I chickened out using Al and used wood instead. I still have your rack drawings pinned up in my garage. Like I said, you have a nice rack Bruce.
 
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