Serving Tray DONE!

Stuart Ablett

Member
Messages
15,917
Location
Tokyo Japan
I saw some serving trays a guy over at TWW made, Jeff, in Vancouver, I was showing them to my lovely wife, and she suggested that I make one as a present for our friends the Kajimotos to bring them to the New Year Party they have every January 2nd. I got busy, and I'm making one now.

I got the wood from my rooftop stash of board I harvested myself in my Logging in Tokyo adventure, nearly two years ago!

I'm double posting some pics here, from the other thread about opening my stack of wood, but here goes!


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The stack opened and some boards removed!

I cut the boards in half, as I'll not need any thing that long, and I checked the moisture content........

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Looks like 8% to me!

I then ripped the edges off using the Festool saw, and the new ripping blade......

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Worked really well! :thumb:

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I cut all the pieces into bits that I'll now have to joint and then thickness plane to give me some usable stock.

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here are some of the Blue Keyaki boards

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and some more, I think these might be Akagashi, or Japanese Evergreen Oak, they are certainly NOT keyaki.

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A shot of the Dungeon in production mode, Big Blue, my resaw bandsaw in the background, the Makita thickness planer on the workbench, and my 10" "Green Meanie" jointer right up front. Yep, I still remember how to do this flatwork stuff :D

cont.........
 
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I want to make the tray 22" x 14" so I needed to put a strip in the center of the bottom board of the tray, I have some Walnut, so I picked that for the contrast with the Blue Keyaki. I'll also use Walnut for the keys in the corners.

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one coat of lacquer sanding sealer on this piece, sanded to #320.

More to come! :wave:
 
Well, I got it done, right under the wire too.......

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The only real WIP pic I have, I was just too darn busy to stop and take pics!

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Here it is with a good coat of sanding sealer on it, I've since put four coats of rattle can lacquer on it, should be good.

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Corner detail.

Guess who now wants one, after she suggested I make one for our friends as a present....... :D

BTW, I hope I don't get too big a fine from the turners, I know that this really, and truly is flatwork, the only thing I used the lathe for on this one was to stack the wood on as it was coming out of the thickness planer....... :eek:

Cheers!
 
Stu, great work:thumb:, I'm sure they will be greatly appreciated by the party hosts. I'm trying to picture you using your lathe to stack ****work on.:eek:

BTW, I think it is already the new year there, right? Happy New Year!!
 
Hi Stu

Beautiful work

But...you are not going to get out of it so easy....:)

How did you make the corner splines...

How you made the "handles" sides...

Sorry for the beginners questions but, I never did it...:eek:

Happy new year
Shin nen akemashite omedeto gozaimasu

niki
 
Well, we got back from Costco, safe and sound, but they were sold out of apple pie :eek: oh well....... :rolleyes:

Nikki, I'll try to post some pics later showing you how I did it, not difficult, or complex at all, just a few simple jigs to make.

Mike, the wood is somewhat like Ash, but a LOT more toothy, maybe you can't see that in the pics, but it really is.

Don, sssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhh I've not yet been dinged with a ticket from the spinny world, so keep it down would you! ;) :D :rofl:

Cheers!
 
Velly nice, Stu! :thumb:
:rofl:

What wood for your sweetheart's version? :D

Is that the Panther blade on your TS55? I have one still in it's box, but most guys say the standard blade does just as well....but maybe the Panther is better for ripping thick boards? Remember, the Panther blade has a wider kerf than the standard blade, so your rubber splinter strip along the edge of the guide rail will be narrower now...:doh:
 
Velly nice, Stu! :thumb:
:rofl:

What wood for your sweetheart's version? :D

Is that the Panther blade on your TS55? I have one still in it's box, but most guys say the standard blade does just as well....but maybe the Panther is better for ripping thick boards? Remember, the Panther blade has a wider kerf than the standard blade, so your rubber splinter strip along the edge of the guide rail will be narrower now...:doh:

Yeah, tell me about it, I had no idea :bang: in general I'm real impressed with Festool stuff, but that just does not make any sense to me:dunno:, as it is just wider, 2.5 mm compared to 2.2 mm for the standard blade, so 0.3mm difference or 0.015 on each side of the blade?:huh:

It sure cuts nice, WAY faster and easier than the standard blade. I'd certainly use it if I had a bunch of ripping to do, edging boards like I did here it was real nice.

Cheers!
 
I'd suspect the extra mass that the wider kerf would have is why it cuts better. Less vibration and more rotating mass to keep the momentum.

Nice job Stu and Happy New Year.

p.s. Have you given any thought to putting dovetailed splines in the corners? I think it would go well with that design.
 
Well done Stu! It was time to see something done out of the wood lot! Was it dry enough??

Two years already? man! time flyes faster and faster every year! I still remember watching your pics and video!
 
Thanks guys

I think the Festool ripping blade also cuts a rips a lot better than the normal blade because there are way less teeth, larger gullets too, which I guess comes down to the geometry of the blade, I would think it would suck at cross cuts.

I thought about dovetailed keys, but I've have to get a much smaller dovetail bit, the one I have it too big.

Yeah, Toni, two years :eek: :D The wood was measured at 8% moisture content, I think that will be more than dry enough here, as even in the winter it is humid in Japan.

Cheers! :wave:
 
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