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Thread: Installing roof eaves

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    24

    Installing roof eaves

    I removed about 50 contiguous feet of roof eaves when I did the demo for a new patio I built. A portion of the eaves were damaged by termites. I believe the eaves are 2x10, maybe 2x12 and sold in 16 foot lengths. Originally they were secured by nails thru the face into the roof joints tails and also from the top thru the roof substrate before the singles were installed.
    Any suggestions on how to reinstall these long and heavy eaves? Will nails thru the face of the eave be enough support? Any tips on holding the eaves in place as I only have my son helping me? Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Are the ends of the rafter tails sound wood? If not, it will be hard to get any thing to hold into old poor condition end grain. If they are in bad condltion, you can shoot on some pieces of new wood into the side of each rafter tail. It is called "sistering".
    That way you will have new good solid wood to fasten into.

    I believe what you are talking about is what I would call the Fascia Board. Normally a 2X6 or 2X8. Those then can be covered by standard decorative.Aluminum Fascia sold off the shelf at lumber yards.

    As to fastening the new wood fascia boards on. The simplest and securest method would be screws, my prefered screw of choice are 3 1/4" star or square drive coated deck screws.

    Another, and faster way would be 3" - 3 1/4" coated 16D sinker nails fired in with a framing nailer. You can rent a compressor and framing nailer very inexpensively.

    Here is an article that seems to cover the task.

    http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projec...e/garage_7.htm

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    535
    Hey Robert, you might also consider using cedar for the facia board - termites no likey....

  4. #4
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    If you think it it termite damage, get that looked at before you button it up. If it is termites, then you also have damage to the structure back toward the ground where these little buggers live. They only travel away from home to dine on the wood the house is made out of. Jim.
    Coolmeadow Setters...
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    Home of Irish Setter Rescue of North Texas
    When Irish Eyes are smiling, they're usually up to something!!
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  5. #5
    Absolutely... sub Terranian Teremites must return to the colony "underground" each day, so there has to have been or is active a major highway for their passage. Check it out professionally.

  6. #6
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    First get a bug guy out there to check to see if they are active. If not find out if the rest of the structer is soild.

    For the facia, you only need 1x materail, as it is only to seal up the ends.

  7. #7
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    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Simpson View Post
    Absolutely... sub Terranian Teremites must return to the colony "underground" each day, so there has to have been or is active a major highway for their passage. Check it out professionally.
    In SoCal, it's more likely to be Dry Wood termites. They fly in in swarms - like bees - and the nest is actually in the wood they're eating. Exterminators will tell you that they can treat them, but can't guarantee re-infestation, because another swarm can fly in the very next day and start eating another part of the house.

    In Tustin, I had the termite guy out about every six months, and he often found new ones.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  8. #8
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    Termites in SoCal is a given. Jim is right-by getting rid of one eating swarm doesn't guarantee that another swarm won't re-infest right behind them. I'm a little leery about the termite extermination industry. Ever heard of a termite guy not finding evidence of termites? I have been spot treating them when I find them or removing and replacing eaten wood.
    BTW John, termites also eat cedar and redwood. They infested about 90 feet of cedar fence around my property. They ate completely through several 4x4 posts. I also had a beautiful redwood deck that they infested also. My theory-if it's wood termites will eat it.
    Al- I need to stick with 2x material to match the rest of the eaves.
    Tom- I'll use your "sistering" concept where appropriate. Good idea. Thanks

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    535
    Quote Originally Posted by robert dewinter View Post
    BTW John, termites also eat cedar and redwood. They infested about 90 feet of cedar fence around my property. They ate completely through several 4x4 posts. I also had a beautiful redwood deck that they infested also. My theory-if it's wood termites will eat it.
    True enough, and you guys do have more aggressive termites than we do in the desert. Both examples you mention are likely to be in contact with the ground You've got several varieties of termite in So. Cal., at least two of them subterranean. Your theory holds for these types, less so for flying drywood and dampwood types.

    Whether you use a resistent species or PT (with spot treated ends) you're less likely to have to repeat the work later than if you just use stock 2x material. Whether the increased materials cost is more or less than your potential repair time is worth is your call.

    Getting back to the original question though, you don't mention if its a shingle roof, tile roof, rolled roof, etc. If it's shingle, you may be able to peel the bottom course back to nail through the plywood into the facia material. Then again, you may not. Something I'd look into though, if you have a shingle roof. You could also toe screw up into the plywood from the back side of the facia board. If you drilled pocket holes and were very careful with the screw length, you wouldn't pierce the roofing material. If its an old tile roof, that would of course be less of a concern, there being quite a bit of space under the tiles. New tiles I've no experience with, they may well have more contact area.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Rob as for getting the material up there while you do what you do depends on the age of your son and his weight. If he is too young or able to hold the board in place. You will want to enlist the help of someone who will be able to work with you. I have found most lumber is not straight and will need some coxing to get it straight. Lifting it up and pulling it down ( this is where the weight thing comes into play) while you work it along from one end nailing it as you go to keep it straight is the only way of doing it. Sistering the rafters is pretty much a given when doing this and I am not sure how they build things where you are but here we have a rough facia board (2x material )that is covered with a finished facia board (1x material). Hope this helps in some way.

    Drew
    Daily Thought: SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES..... NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS...............

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