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Thread: Finishing stages

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
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    Finishing stages

    I am working on a corner tv stand, and it is made from white oak, and 3/4 oak plywood. I would like to stain it with the miwax I have as it matches the rst of the furniture in the room ( golden oak ) . I have limited experience with finishes, and would appreciate any help I could get. I have tried researching sanding sealers, but have received conflicting information. I do not have a spray gun so I will be doing it all by hand.

    Thanks in advance,

    Doug
    Master creator of precision sawdust and slivers.

  2. #2
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    is the white oak gtr sawn? if so then you shuld try some shellac to make the rays do ther thing!! love white oak and golden oak stain does comeout well done akitchen with it.. be sure to check your glue area with mineral spirts b4 you stain.
    Last edited by larry merlau; 01-03-2008 at 07:57 PM.
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
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  3. #3
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    Uaslly ply and real wood take stains differently. I would get a few scraps and ply around with it to see if you can find good balance. Some times I end up putting a coat of shellac on the ply to slow down how much stain it soaks up. Alos you could try sanding the oak boards to around 150 grit and the ply to 180 grit. Let us know how you make out with your test panels.

  4. #4
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    The oak is flat sawn.. I inherited approx. 200 bd ft of it so I am using it up.
    I have been able to pick through it and get some nice grain match so it should turn out not bad..

    So I should put a coat of shellac on before the stain.. then one coat of stain and a bunch of coats of poly.. no sanding sealer..??

    I am making the top solid oak, with the sides, and shelves out of ply, with oak trim on the front and the shelf fronts.

    I never checked for glue on a jewely box I made, just scraped and sanded, and got bit .. so I will rub down the glue joints with mineral spirits before doing anything..
    I Thank you for the tips..

    D.
    Master creator of precision sawdust and slivers.

  5. #5
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    Snading sealer is usally a dewaxed shellac.I know this does'nt answer your question, but it depends on if I am trying to match a color or not. Normally I just put on the stain let it set a few minutes and wipe it off. Then let it dry over nigth then start applying the poly.

  6. #6
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    I'm experimenting with some Waterlox on my router table. It wipes on and seems to work very well. You might pop in and see the posts at SMC on finishing. This one in particular had some very good information: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=72541
    So far, I'm happy with the way the Waterlox is going on. It is easy to apply. I've used Formby's tung oil before on the kitchen cabinets I built at the previous house, and did an ok job. Cabinets (Ash) held up well. Waterlox should be a better product. Jim.
    Coolmeadow Setters...
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  7. #7
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    listen to the elders here

    and i just look old i aint one of them but to help you clarify what i have read here i dont think they want you to shellac the hard wood as much as they are after the plywood..ply does take stain darker usually that is why they suggest to sand the ply more 180grit the higher you sand to the less it will hold the pigments.. get your self a book on finishing from homestead fnish guy??? or flexner is real good too! they willanswer alot of your questions.. but not trying to say dont ask here thats a great place too!
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
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    I have actually ordered a couple of books to try and learn a little bit about it.
    I do appreciate all the advice, as most often than not.. "tried and true" is usually better teacher than the books..

    Thanks again,

    Doug
    Master creator of precision sawdust and slivers.

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