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Thread: TV Stand

  1. #1
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    TV Stand

    I am building a simple stand for a flat panel TV for some clients and I need a little advice. This unit is being designed to fit into an existing shelf unit that was built to surround a large projection TV. I am using black melamine, primarily because they want this quick and black. The unit will be 59" wide and 21" tall. It will also have smoked glass, full overlay doors. The gray piece is what I'm building and will roll in flush with the existing unit.


    My first question is will a lock miter joint be sufficient on the end panels? I want to minimize edge banding if possible except for the face. I'd have to get one of these bits.


    I plan to use at least 4 and probably 6 (4 on the front) of these casters.


    The TV will stand on the front edge and weighs approx 150lbs. I think with the cabinet being 30" deep it should be balanced ok.

    Thoughts and advise is appreciated.
    Last edited by Ed Nelson; 01-21-2008 at 03:09 AM.

  2. #2
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    Hi Ed ,
    A couple questions if I may?.... .
    #1 What kind of edgebanding are you using and #2 can you use the black vinyl screw plugs, the kind that seat themselves in a phillips head with the blow of a hammer? #3 Will the nuts on the bolts from the caster be recessed into the floor or will it be sticking up?
    I have no answer to the locking router bit question but I am glad you are doing this project!
    Shaz
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  3. #3
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    Hey Shaz! I was hoping you'd see this.

    I would like for the only edge banding to be around the face. I will likely build a face frame, although it will be the same thickness as the melamine except for the bottom skirt. I may also extend the upper face down a little to add a little strength. With only 21" height, I don't want to close it in too much. I want to avoid having to band exposed edges on the ends, which is why I was thinking of the lock miter joint.

    The screw caps could be used, but I'd rather keep it as clean as possible. That being said the majority of the unit won't be seen, so that probably doesn't matter.

    I will probably have to cut down the caster bolts so they can be recessed into the floor of the unit. Still working on those details.

  4. #4
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    Ed,

    What material, thickness, are you using for the back of the unit?

  5. #5
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    Hi Ed ,
    Several more questions to help guide my answer.
    #1 Do you plan on using any iron on black vinyl edgebanding?
    #2 Will your face frame need painted
    #3 Can you insert a false back in the center section about 13" back to offer anti racking protection?
    #4 Are you responsible for the smoked glass doors also?
    #5 Answer to Greg's question?
    Exercise caution with that melomine, it is rather sharp Ouch!
    Shaz
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Cook View Post
    Ed,

    What material, thickness, are you using for the back of the unit?

    It will all be 3/4 material for both weight and stability.


    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Schaubhut View Post
    Hi Ed ,
    Several more questions to help guide my answer.
    #1 Do you plan on using any iron on black vinyl edgebanding?
    I'm trying to avoid it. I don't particularly like the stuff.
    #2 Will your face frame need painted
    Yes
    #3 Can you insert a false back in the center section about 13" back to offer anti racking protection?
    No reason why not that I can think of.
    #4 Are you responsible for the smoked glass doors also?
    Yep!
    #5 Answer to Greg's question?
    3/4" Throughout
    Exercise caution with that melomine, it is rather sharp Ouch!
    Yep, I have found that out the hard way in the past, yet I still managed to slit my finger on this!
    Shaz
    Hey guys, thanks for the help. Shaz, I was also thinking of the false back, but for a different reason. I was going to use it to add weight, but I don't think I'll need to do that.

    I got some input from a couple guys on the NCWW site and they think the lock miter with some glue blocks would work OK on the end panels.

    The other thing we were talking about is using some threaded inserts in the bottom of the unit for the casters to thread into. I can cut the stud down and won't have to worry about hiding the exposed bolt.

  7. #7
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    I'm not sure that the particle board that the melamine is adhered to is going to hold up to a profile such as a lock mitre....maybe they have different substrates now adays...it's been a few years....

    Doug

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douglas Jones View Post
    I'm not sure that the particle board that the melamine is adhered to is going to hold up to a profile such as a lock mitre....maybe they have different substrates now adays...it's been a few years....

    Doug
    That has been one of my concerns.

  9. #9
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    Hi Ed ,
    Were it my job, knowing nothing of events or participants involved 'cept you , and the "black and quick" comment I would...Consider making this piece only 24 1/2" deep. This would allow for maximum use of material and satisfy the needs, except maybe for weight.

    Rip 2-4x8 at 23 15/16"" then turn around and recut all four ripped pieces at 23 3/4" to get rid of the factory edge.

    Object now is to get 4 sides plus one extra (5 total), one back and one center section inset panel all the same height. How you do that is up to you.


    Next objective would be to cut top and bottom to the desired length and while you are at it cut the back to length (minus the thickness of the 2 sides).

    Cut 3/4" off the depth of the 2 center vertical dividers. This will allow for the back to be inset.

    Are you okay with this so far?
    Shaz
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  10. #10
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    I am. I am using 5x8 sheets of melamine. It's what was available in black. Works ok since I have the top and bottom close to finished length from the width of the piece. Since the TV will mount on the front edge, I wanted to make sure to have plenty of mass in back. This is the reason I went with 30". It will take 2 pieces of melamine and since 5x8 is the smallest available, I will have plenty of material to work with. Sorry for leaving that tidbit out.

    I am somewhat concerned with going with a mitered edge on the end corners since they will be quite sharp. I will be actively working on this starting Thursday. I have a couple meetings I have to attend tomorrow and Wednesday, so I have a little time to think about it.

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