TV Stand

Ed Nelson

Member
Messages
1,486
Location
Charlotte, NC
I am building a simple stand for a flat panel TV for some clients and I need a little advice. This unit is being designed to fit into an existing shelf unit that was built to surround a large projection TV. I am using black melamine, primarily because they want this quick and black. The unit will be 59" wide and 21" tall. It will also have smoked glass, full overlay doors. The gray piece is what I'm building and will roll in flush with the existing unit.
TV_Base.jpg


My first question is will a lock miter joint be sufficient on the end panels? I want to minimize edge banding if possible except for the face. I'd have to get one of these bits.
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I plan to use at least 4 and probably 6 (4 on the front) of these casters.
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The TV will stand on the front edge and weighs approx 150lbs. I think with the cabinet being 30" deep it should be balanced ok.

Thoughts and advise is appreciated.
 
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Hi Ed :wave:,
A couple questions if I may?.... .
#1 What kind of edgebanding are you using and #2 can you use the black vinyl screw plugs, the kind that seat themselves in a phillips head with the blow of a hammer? #3 Will the nuts on the bolts from the caster be recessed into the floor or will it be sticking up?
I have no answer to the locking router bit question but I am glad you are doing this project!:thumb:
Shaz :)
 
Hey Shaz! I was hoping you'd see this.

I would like for the only edge banding to be around the face. I will likely build a face frame, although it will be the same thickness as the melamine except for the bottom skirt. I may also extend the upper face down a little to add a little strength. With only 21" height, I don't want to close it in too much. I want to avoid having to band exposed edges on the ends, which is why I was thinking of the lock miter joint.

The screw caps could be used, but I'd rather keep it as clean as possible. That being said the majority of the unit won't be seen, so that probably doesn't matter.

I will probably have to cut down the caster bolts so they can be recessed into the floor of the unit. Still working on those details.
 
Hi Ed :wave:,
Several more questions to help guide my answer.
#1 Do you plan on using any iron on black vinyl edgebanding?
#2 Will your face frame need painted
#3 Can you insert a false back in the center section about 13" back to offer anti racking protection?
#4 Are you responsible for the smoked glass doors also?
#5 Answer to Greg's question?:D
Exercise caution with that melomine, it is rather sharp:eek: Ouch!:rolleyes:
Shaz :)
 
Ed,

What material, thickness, are you using for the back of the unit?

It will all be 3/4 material for both weight and stability.


Hi Ed :wave:,
Several more questions to help guide my answer.
#1 Do you plan on using any iron on black vinyl edgebanding?
I'm trying to avoid it. I don't particularly like the stuff.
#2 Will your face frame need painted
Yes
#3 Can you insert a false back in the center section about 13" back to offer anti racking protection?
No reason why not that I can think of.
#4 Are you responsible for the smoked glass doors also?
Yep!
#5 Answer to Greg's question?:D
3/4" Throughout
Exercise caution with that melomine, it is rather sharp:eek: Ouch!:rolleyes:
Yep, I have found that out the hard way in the past, yet I still managed to slit my finger on this!:doh:
Shaz :)

Hey guys, thanks for the help. Shaz, I was also thinking of the false back, but for a different reason. I was going to use it to add weight, but I don't think I'll need to do that.

I got some input from a couple guys on the NCWW site and they think the lock miter with some glue blocks would work OK on the end panels.

The other thing we were talking about is using some threaded inserts in the bottom of the unit for the casters to thread into. I can cut the stud down and won't have to worry about hiding the exposed bolt.
 
I'm not sure that the particle board that the melamine is adhered to is going to hold up to a profile such as a lock mitre....maybe they have different substrates now adays...it's been a few years....

Doug
 
Hi Ed :wave:,
Were it my job:rolleyes:, knowing nothing of events or participants involved 'cept you:D :thumb:, and the "black and quick" comment I would...Consider making this piece only 24 1/2" deep. This would allow for maximum use of material and satisfy the needs, except maybe for weight.

Rip 2-4x8 at 23 15/16"" then turn around and recut all four ripped pieces at 23 3/4" to get rid of the factory edge.

Object now is to get 4 sides plus one extra (5 total), one back and one center section inset panel all the same height. How you do that is up to you.


Next objective would be to cut top and bottom to the desired length and while you are at it cut the back to length (minus the thickness of the 2 sides).

Cut 3/4" off the depth of the 2 center vertical dividers. This will allow for the back to be inset.

Are you okay with this so far?
Shaz:)
 
I am. I am using 5x8 sheets of melamine. It's what was available in black. Works ok since I have the top and bottom close to finished length from the width of the piece. Since the TV will mount on the front edge, I wanted to make sure to have plenty of mass in back. This is the reason I went with 30". It will take 2 pieces of melamine and since 5x8 is the smallest available, I will have plenty of material to work with. Sorry for leaving that tidbit out.

I am somewhat concerned with going with a mitered edge on the end corners since they will be quite sharp. I will be actively working on this starting Thursday. I have a couple meetings I have to attend tomorrow and Wednesday, so I have a little time to think about it.
 
Hi Ed :wave:,
From the projects you have gotten involved in and the results you have produced, this project will just be different but turn out great as with your other work.:thumb:

I would cut the top and bottom to size and use the iron on banding to cap the edges only. (2-29 1/4"x 60") The stuff I used for my black melomine projects was not too bad at all. I will send you 40' if you send me you address.:D

Cut material for; (All the same height)

#1 the 4 vertical walls, (two outside 29 1/4" deep, the center pieces will be 28 1/2" deep to allow for the inset of back.
#2 the back, (length of top minus the thickness of 2 sides)
#3 (in the center section), the anti racking, false back, and
#4 2 other pieces, same height but 14" wide (as spacers off the back wall, attached to the inner side within the center compartment, left and right, to align(distance from the back wall) and attach the false back to).

I would pilot and use 2" phillips head screws and cap them in securing the box together using butt joints, all pieces sitting on the floor of the cabinet and resting under the top.
Good luck with your meetings.
Shaz.
 
Hi Ed Just a quick question and comment in regards to your project. Why make the base mobile? I mean I own a projection TV and though mine weighs only 40 lbs I still have no need to access the back of it. It just seems a lot of extra unnecessary work to make it mobile.
 
Hi Ed Just a quick question and comment in regards to your project. Why make the base mobile? I mean I own a projection TV and though mine weighs only 40 lbs I still have no need to access the back of it. It just seems a lot of extra unnecessary work to make it mobile.

Basically, because that is what was requested! The TV actually weighs about 150~160lbs and they want access if it is ever necessary.

Shaz, thanks for the help and advice! I appreciate the offer for the edge banding!
 
Ed, I'm not following the details on how you are going to achieve this job, but, if you find yourself gluing and melamine surfaces, to melamine or wood...I've found that Roo Glue Melamine glue is wonderful stuff. We did some tests, melamine to melamine and were unable to seperate the results.
 
Hi Doug :wave:,
That tip on Roo glue or melomine glue is a good one to throw in, after all things said and done melomine is not porous.
Hi Ed :wave:,
Hope all is well and moving in the right direction. Focus on your plan and your prep.

Shaz :)
 
Well I decided not to go with the lock miter corners. Here are some pics of the project so far. Working with melamine is not one of my favorites, but it is what works best for this project!

Here's the layout for the dados
IMG_03061.JPG
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Jig clamped up
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Route dado
IMG_03101.JPG


Perfect Fit!
IMG_03121.JPG


Here's a shot of the false back panels I put in to help prevent racking. Thanks to Shaz for the recommendation!
IMG_0313.JPG
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I picked up a neat new gadget today for this project. It is a recess cutter and cap cutter kit from Fastcap.

Here is the cutter
IMG_0314.JPG
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Here are the recesses it cuts
IMG_0321.JPG
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The cap cutter
IMG_0322.JPG
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The capped screw holes. These need to be cleaned up, but they blend real nice and fit perfectly!
IMG_03252.JPG


I have the carcass assembled and will post more pics later!
 
Hi Ed :wave:,
You are really cookin' on this project!:thumb:
I had heard of the plug system you purchased and thought it to be a good idea. Glad you got it. I will bug you for info as it seems like a good system.
Your router mortising worked like a charm too as you predicted earlier in the other thread. Look forward to your progress up dates when you see fit.
Thanks for the pics too!
Shaz :)
 
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