First Impression: Monster Articulated Arm Hollowing System

Vaughn McMillan

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When I ordered my lathe recently, I knew I needed to get a new base for the captive rear rest on my Monster hollowing rig, to accommodate the extra swing capacity. I decided while I was getting a new base, I should get something cool to put in it, so I splurged and got one of Randy Privett's Monster articulated hollowing arms, Since I already had the compatible boring bars and cutters, I was able to save a few bucks off the price of the full rig. (Still, the full rig is a bargain, IMHO.) The end result is that I now have a choice of two hollowing systems: The captive D-handle and the articulated arm.

I finally got a chance to test drive the articulated arm rig tonight, and I suspect the captive D-handle won't be getting a lot of use anymore. :D If I had to use one word to describe this thing, it'd be smoooooooooth. I realize it helps to have a very smooth lathe, but this seemed to have much less vibration and chatter than the D-handle rig. If you push it too hard, or the wrong way, you can get this one to chatter pretty badly too, but it's much easier (for me, at least) to control the tool and get smooth cuts. Also, compared to the D-handle setup, the articulated arm can enter the opening at a more acute angle without the need for re-adjustment. This makes it easier to get the hard to reach areas such as inside the rim.

Here are a few pics, but before anyone gets on my case about the screw holes in the rim of the hollow form, I should explain that I started out planning to make a bowl out of this piece of ambrosia maple, but once I got into it a bit I decided to go with a hollow form instead. I can show off more of the pretty figure that way. ;) I'll cover up the screw holes with a collar later.

Here's the rig, with the straight boring bar and a swivel cutter:

Articulating Arm Hollowing Rig 01 - 800.jpg

This shot shows the swan neck bar and a scraper head:

Articulating Arm Hollowing Rig 02 - 800.jpg

And here's one with the straight bar again, but with a bent cutter I got from Randy a while back:

Articulating Arm Hollowing Rig 03 - 800.jpg

And here's a little something I added to the rig at the recommendation of some guitar player guy I know. :rofl: It's the Hunter carbide cutter, mounted in the Monster swivel head. It has a different feel to it, and I had to adjust my technique a bit, but man this thing can cut clean.

Articulating Arm Hollowing Rig 04 - 800.jpg

The cutter head is angled, and you don't sharpen it. When the edge gets dull, you loosen the cutter and rotate it a little bit. Then after a LOT of turning, you replace it for about $22.

Articulating Arm Hollowing Rig 05 - 800.jpg

And since I've not really posted any action shots of the new Mustard, here are a few obligatory pics. I have some others from the first piece I turned on it (a few days ago), but unfortunately those pics are in limbo on a hard drive that I'm unable to access right now. :crash:

I should start by saying I love this lathe. Very quiet, and very smooth. I had never even seen a PM 3520B in person until I assembled this one. It is everything all the other folks say it is. :D I've not yet turned anything that was very out of balance, but it's nickel test smooth when spinning and cutting round blanks. Tons of torque in the low end, too.

Also, to anyone who has doubts about the wheels I put on it, put those doubts to rest. When the feet are down, I can't budge it. At all. The rubber pads are a lot stickier than the nylon feet that come from the factory, or the bare cast iron of the legs. But when it's on the wheels, I can move it one-handed.

Here's proof that I'm getting it a bit dirty. By the way, the magnetic remote switch is very handy. I really like being able to mount it in a lot of different places (including the metal cabinet at the end of the lathe). While I was hollowing tonight, I set it right on the bed, so I could easily shut off the lathe while still holding the hollowing tool in place.

Articulating Arm Hollowing Rig 06 - 800.jpg

More dirtiness...

Articulating Arm Hollowing Rig 07 - 800.jpg

And I guess this is a rite of passage, but tonight I also got the first rust on the bed. (Musta not had it waxed enough.)

Articulating Arm Hollowing Rig 08 - 800.jpg

Nothing a little steel wool and Johnson Paste Wax couldn't solve:

Articulating Arm Hollowing Rig 09 - 800.jpg

So...in a nutshell, the articulated arm hollowing system kicks tail, and so does the Mustard. I'd buy either again in a heartbeat. I'm a happy camper. :D
 
Hey Vaughn, did you not notice the screw holes in that rim? Maybe you can cover it up with some sort of collar.......... :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Nice rig, sure does look smooth!

BTW, I ordered a set of those wheels, the VERY helpful people at Zambus.com arranged it so the maker, in Korea, will drop ship the wheels to me, and I pay the guys in the US, saves me a LOT in shipping and time.

Cheers!
 
Nah, those are just very symmetrical worm holes. I think I'll fill them with drywall mud and call it good. :p

Ahhhh, I don't believe that for a second, after all, you HIRED someone to do that little bit of plastering around your new electric works......so you will have to hire out the drywall mud work as well :D:rofl:
 
Congrats on your new hollowing system Vaughn! My wife and I had the pleasure of visiting with Randy back in October and got to see the mini-articulating arm system. Very smooth! I have the D-handle captured system and love it but have to admit there are times you have to get a little creative when undercutting the rim and deep shoulder areas. Will have to give getting the articulating arm some thought - like you I would only have to get the arm - already have the bars and cutters.

Nice looking lathe! Glad it is turning out to be everything you hoped it would be! Smooth is the key! Have fun with!
 
Thanks for the review Vaughn! Looks like a nice setup.

Being cheap...I didn't get the remote shutoff. Sometime in the future I'll bet I wished I had.
 
Hey Vaughn did you know you have screw holes in the rim????:rofl::rofl:

Great gloat and thanks for the tutorial. I am also thinking of getting one of those. I think it would be a nice addition to the Nova. I have two of the Hunter tools and man once you get used to the cut it is so smooth. I did a bowl the other day and used it for the finial cuts. I started sanding at 180 instead of 80 grit.

Does all of your accessories from the captured unit fit this one??? Thanks.
 
Looks good,,
The torque on the tool doesn't effect the tools performance? With the captive ring style setup I can see where the torque is countered, but with this outfit I don't see where it is countered at all. The swivils aren't put into a bind or anything of the sort?
 
I'm impressed even though I still do double-takes at that dropped section of lathe bed. The extra switch looks like a good idea. Does it just plug into the existing plugs?
Frank, I took some pictures especially for you to show how the dropped bed works. Those are some of the pics I can't access right now due to computer problems. For now, just picture moving the headstock to the edge of the upper bed, and using an extra tall tool rest sitting on the lower bed. No tailstock in this configuration. It's very simple.

Hey Vaughn did you know you have screw holes in the rim????:rofl::rofl:
Don't make me go over there to Kansas and smack you, Bernie. :rofl:

...Does all of your accessories from the captured unit fit this one??? Thanks.
Yeppers, and I have an adaptor to fit the smaller Don Pencil Stinger bars.
Looks good,,
The torque on the tool doesn't effect the tools performance? With the captive ring style setup I can see where the torque is countered, but with this outfit I don't see where it is countered at all. The swivils aren't put into a bind or anything of the sort?
Doug, I believe the joints are all on ball bearings (Randy could maybe provide more specifics), so there was no binding at all that I could tell. I think it's countering the torque with beefiness. This one feels less prone to binding that the D-handle rig I've used. With the other rig, I used to spread paraffin wax on the rear captive rest to keep it sliding smoothly.
 
Hey Vaughn coffee is on and beer in the frig your choice. :rolleyes:;)

Thanks for the info. I have been eyeballing that thing since he put it on his website. I watched his video on it and it looks slick.
 
Doug, I believe the joints are all on ball bearings (Randy could maybe provide more specifics), so there was no binding at all that I could tell. I think it's countering the torque with beefiness. This one feels less prone to binding that the D-handle rig I've used. With the other rig, I used to spread paraffin wax on the rear captive rest to keep it sliding smoothly.

There's a total of 6 bearings, 2 bearings in each joint, that's what keeps it smooth. After some time using it, the bearings might need to be tightened up a little bit.
 
Thanks for jumping in, Randy. And thanks for such a sweet addition to my tool arsenal. :thumb:

Did I mention this thing is smoooooooooth? :D
 
Vaughn,

I noticed that you had the base rotated towards the rear of the lathe. Don't get me wrong, you're doing a great job, but it has been my experience with this tool that if you rotate the base at a 45 degree angle to the front and rear of the lathe, it will help you get out of the vessel easier, allowing for clearance down the center of the lathe and for some reason, seems to cut down the vibration. Don't ask me why. Try it and see what you think.

Great job.
 
Hey as long as you're not using that D-handle anymore just send it my way. ;) I'd like to upgrade my Monster hand held stuff, it just beats me up too much doing hollowing. I'm not sure how these systems will work on my DVR though, the bed seems a little short for some of the rigs.
 
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