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Triton plunge in router table question

Hi Norman,

OK you got to me. I shall go forth and seek a foot switch for the DP. I will also wire it serries with the switch on the DP head.

Translation to the above..."I had a bit of a scarry one with the DP last night." I was able to hold on to the object while the DP pulley was slipping in the belt and get to the regular DP switch. I really do not want to do that again!!!

Thanks and Enjoy,

Jim
 
Jim C Bradley said:
Hi Norman,

OK you got to me. I shall go forth and seek a foot switch for the DP. I will also wire it serries with the switch on the DP head.

Translation to the above..."I had a bit of a scarry one with the DP last night." I was able to hold on to the object while the DP pulley was slipping in the belt and get to the regular DP switch. I really do not want to do that again!!!

Thanks and Enjoy,

Jim
Click to expand...

Yeah Jim, things like that can certainly get your attention. Just as a further tidbit of how I used the foot switch on mine, I Didn't hard wire it into the DP, because the one I had, had a cord from the footswitch to plug into a wall outlet, and then had a shorter cord from the Footswitch to an outlet recepticle, so I just plugged the FS into the wall and then plugged the DP into it's outlet. It was a nice arrangement, because I could quickly unhook it from the DP and use it on another machine when I wanted to, (like when I was still using that Miniature Mickey Mouse Sears Benchtop Router table I had back then). I even used it on an old Craftsman 10" TS that only had an on/off toggle switch built into the motor.

I think you will like using one.
 
Hmm...I really like the drill press footswitch idea. I've been known to turn one off with my nose before. :eek: I think I'd like it to also be capable of starting the DP with my foot, too. I'm picturing a push on-push off arrangement that would only work with the main switch was also on. Maybe even with an LED or two to tell you what state it was in at a glance. I think I'd also do it like Norman's and put in on the main power cord to the machine, so I could use it on other machines as well.

Just what I needed...another project. Then again, there's this:

http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20340

;)
 
Vaughn, I believe that switch from Woodcraft is of the "momentary ON" type. (The page doesn't really say, but I have one very similar hooked up to my scrollsaw and that's how it works. :dunno:)

I wonder how hard it would be to make a decent push-ON, push-OFF footswitch from scratch? (Nudge you into an extra project? Me? Naawww.... :rofl:)
 
Kerry Burton said:
...I wonder how hard it would be to make a decent push-ON, push-OFF footswitch from scratch? (Nudge you into an extra project? Me? Naawww.... :rofl:)
Click to expand...

It'd take about 10 minutes with the right switch, an extension cord, a metal box, and a few pieces of miscellaneous electrical hardware. ;) I need to do some checking on switches. I used a lot of heavy-duty push on-push off switches back when I was building footpedals for my guitar rig years ago. I don't recall what type of voltage and amperage ratings those had, but if they're capable of 15 amps at 110v, it's be pretty easy to make one. I wonder if an automotive dimmer switch is rated high enough?
 
When I was teaching the vacuum systems class, we looked for foot switches that were push-on push-off. Man, were they expensive. The momentary on push switch is relatively cheap. Got to investigating why. Liability reasons. The cost is to discourage their use as they can be turned on accidentally too easily.

Well, I guess I didn't want a switch on my dirty floor anyway!

So, we got push-on push off switches correctly rated from Ace hardware. We put them into a box with a paddle hanging off the top and fastened the box where we could bump it with a knee. Worked real well, so I made one for the drill press as well. Cost was about $5 per switch, plus a cover (use a blank metal cover and drill a hole for the switch about 3/4's of the way below center), plus a plastic box.

Screw a short piece of wood to the top of the box that allows the hinged paddle to hang straight down almost touching the switch button, so it takes a definitive push to activate the switch.
 
Triton's Answer

Hi,

A man from Triton answered my message. It was short, not so sweet, and direct. "That feature is safety feature of the Router and we can not authorized and will void warranty if any alterations are done to the router".

That is a direct quote---including the unusual English and punctuation.

The product is an excellent product. However, I have 3 other routers and purchased this one to do a specific job. I waited over 6 months for delivery because of one back order after another, because I wanted to do all router work from above the table. Now they tell me it is immoral, illegal and fattening to use the product that way.

Freud just came out with three routers designed to be operated entirely above the table. Guess I will have to pursue them and return the Triton or say bye bye to the warranty and use the Triton.

It is not just the cost of the triton, which has had somewhere between two and three minutes use, it is the time and effort to get a router table built the way I want in order to use the Triton. It is also the $40.00 for a blank router plate for the table. It is also the $75.00 for precision drilling of holes with recessed areas for bolt heads to fit the Triton. Somehow I feel like a piece of cabinet wood---I've been screwed.

Change of subject. I have made very good paddle switches for my equipment. Cost is about $5.00. I purchase a designer switch. Put it in an electric switch box. Put a hinge on top. Fasten paddle to the hinge so paddle hangs down over the switch. Hole in paddle so I can stick a finger in to turn it on. Machine runs. To turn off I touch paddle with knee or whatever. Paddle presses on bottom part of switch and power is removed.

Switches can be had in 110v, 15 or 20 amp. configurations. Switch costs less than $5.00 at BORG. Box costs less than $0.50. Scrap Masonite costs $0.00. Hinge can be almost any cheapie. Cover plate comes with the switch.

One disadvantage. If power goes off and you go to breaker box and flip the breaker THE MACHINE IS GOING TO COME BACK ON. That is unless you have turned it off. A magnetic switch (expensive) won't come back on after power removed unless you physically turn it on. Of course the switches that come on most equipment are NOT magnetic so they present the same potentially dangerous problem.

Sorry if I sound bitchy about a good product.

Enjoy

Jim
 
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