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steve mackay

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El Paso, TX
Broken nose re-shaped, entierly stripped and re-japaned ( asphaultum, of course ! ), polished and waxed. Even more fun to use when its look'n good ! Yes, yes, feel'n pleased with myself !
 

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You bet !

Over the years, people have asked me for the best way to use my japanning, and I have been responding with the basic “textbook” version. Now, a master refinisher has shared with me what he does, and I am passing along his wisdom. His method is described below. This is not a recommendation—the official method is to air dry, but that does not impart a hard finish.
WAG Japanning, LLC
Bill Gustafson
oldtools@taconic.net
518.392.2845

BLACK JAPANNING CURING SCHEDULE
Set Up
Set the items on a cookie sheet that will not be used for cookies—ever. That makes it very easy to transfer the parts to the oven.

Some parts may need additional support. With a bit of thought, various jigs can be made using kiln dried hard wood and nails and wire—no resinous wood at all.

Applying Black Japanning
Apply japanning in smooth, even strokes, being attentive to cover all necessary surfaces. Don’t be overly concerned about getting it where it shouldn’t be.*

On occasion it may be necessary to coat a surface while it is in a horizontal position and to allow the japanning to set before proceeding to other surfaces.*

When the part is covered, set it aside for several hours at room temperature (70 - 80ºF).
This will allow the japanning to flow and smooth out. Any cooler and it won’t flow properly;
very much warmer and it will set before flowing.*

After setting, examine each part and carefully touch up any areas that may need it.**The japanning is very soft, so be careful not to touch painted surfaces.*If the touch up was very minor, proceed to curing; otherwise let it set.
Curing The Japanning
If you intend to do this in the kitchen oven, it is best that your significant other is not at home as they seem to take offense to the odor even when the exhaust fan is on.
*
1. Place the cookie tray with parts on a middle rack in the oven.
Set the oven to about 125ºF.
Cure one to two hours at this setting—longer times won’t hurt; less time will.
2. Raise temperature to about 225ºF.
Cure one to two hours at this setting.
*
3. Remove parts from oven and allow to cool.
At this point the japanning is quite firm but can be removed with lacquer thinner.
Using Exacto knives or single a edge razor blade, shave excess japanning from edges, etc.
Q-tips dipped in lacquer thinner will remove all trace of japanning where desired. Any grossly uneven areas of japanning can be shaved or scraped carefully, and even smoothed out with a bit of thinner. Small touch ups are also possible at this time.
This is the point where you want to be certain you are satisfied with the appearance.
Any dull areas resulting from scraping will become glossy with further curing.

4. Return parts to oven, and set temperature to 325ºF.
Cure one to two hours at this setting.

5. Raise temperature to about 425ºF.
*** Cure one to two hours at this setting.
*
6. Remove parts from oven. WATCH OUT, —this stuff is hot.
You could just turn the oven off and let things cool off; sometimes letting it set overnight in the oven is just peachy.*

More Info of Interest
When using a gas oven, there is considerable moisture given off from the burning gas;
this will actually aid in producing a nice brown patina on uncoated surfaces.*
The cure times are approximate. A longer time at any given temperature will only make things better. If the curing time at any step is too short, out-gassing will cause bubbles, and pits
will occur.
*
This is a bit of an art, so results can vary.

CAUTION!
When working with paints, solvents, and heat there is always some risk involved,
so I am not recommending that you try any of the above, and I ain’t liable if you do. The above is just what I do to get a historic, accurate finish.
I’m what they call judgment proof anyhow.
*
Jack Zimmerman**
395 Flat Rock Road
Port Matilda, PA* 16870
814-692-7691
jack3zim@adelphia.net
 
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