Starting big

Alfredo Alamo

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]Hey you guys, First of all I want to thank Jeff Bower for inviting to this forum. It looks like is a big one. I am a metal sculptor but I am trying to add some natural power to my pieces and wood is one of my main options. So even when I am going to take my first class on wood turning tomorrow, I am already planning to build my own lathe. I already read other threads about it and I am prety sure that I am going to go with a bowl lathe like this. So I found on the internet the Delta Rockwell Headstock on the pictures and I would like to see what do you guys think about it. Thank you so much

Alfredo Alamo
 

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Alfredo,

Welcome to the forum.

Looks like it should be a fun project, might consider making the rest where it will allow more adjustment, but it looks sturdy enough.

Post some pics when you get it done. Would like to see some of your metal work as well.
 
Welcome to the Family Alfredo! :wave:

I saw that homemade lathe a while back, it is a great design and I'm sure it works well too!

One thing that I would add, that might be overkill, is I'd fill the webs of the "I" beams with concrete, as I've found that there is a surprising amount of flex in those "I" beams, I understand they are supposed to be somewhat flexible :dunno:

You would leave space for the banjo clamp block under the top, in the center. I'd also not finish the tops, leave them, or grind/sand them to bear metal.

OK, a third thing I'd add would be a linked belt, this will really cut down on any vibration from the motor.

Nice to have another guy who knows his way around working steel, can't wait to pick your brain! :thumb:

Cheers!
 
Hey guy thank you for welcoming me and for your answers.

Stuart, I already thought about the concrete part even when the length of the "I" beams is to short to flex but I am going to do it anyways. The idea of leaving the top of the bed clean is fantastic, I can see what you mean. Now, the rest of your answer is in chinese:rofl: what does banjo clamp block under the top, in the center mean:dunno: Also, I was googling "linked belt" and all I came up with was "fashion belts" Remember that I know next to nothing about turning and lathes:eek::eek::eek:...BTW do you think that that headstok would be a good thing to have?
 
Hey guy thank you for welcoming me and for your answers.

Stuart, I already thought about the concrete part even when the length of the "I" beams is to short to flex but I am going to do it anyways. The idea of leaving the top of the bed clean is fantastic, I can see what you mean. Now, the rest of your answer is in chinese:rofl: what does banjo clamp block under the top, in the center mean:dunno: Also, I was googling "linked belt" and all I came up with was "fashion belts" Remember that I know next to nothing about turning and lathes:eek::eek::eek:...BTW do you think that that headstok would be a good thing to have?

If you put concrete in the webs, make darn sure you have a good spot picked out for that beast, as you will NOT be wanting to have to move it :D

The "Banjo" is the part of the lathe that slides on the bed (the thing on your lathe that is made up from the "I" beams) this holds the tool rest.

The clamp block is the part that goes below the webs, when you tighten the banjo, the clamp block is below the bed and is drawn upwards against the I-beam web, to clamp the banjo in place.

here is a pic............

banjo.jpg
Of the underside of the banjo, you can see the round clamp block. When you fill the space between the two I-beams, you would need to leave space on the underside of the bed for this to slide back and forth.

About the headstock, the only thing I'd be at all concerned about is that it is straight and the pulleys are not bent at all, bearings can be replaced, also, what is the thread size on the spindle? This type of lathe was designed for spindle turning between centers, so the headstock spindle may not be that rugged..........:dunno:

I guess it would depend on how cheap it was too.

The linked belts are like this..........
power_twist_linked_belt.jpg
I think they are actually called "Power Twist Linked Belts"

Cheers!
 
If I might butt in here, when talking about stiffening up machine mountings do you ever considerer which part of the lathe is subjected to the greatest destructive shock loads if the whole assembly cannot 'give' a little.

I would have though it results in the spindle bearings microscopic grease or oil film taking a lot more punishment than necessary.
 
Chas, I'd say the wood would give a lot too :D

You are correct in that too much stiffness can be a bad thing, I think back to the GP bikes of the 80's, their quest for chassis stiffness led them down the road to frames so stiff, the bikes were un-ride-able, and they had to engineer some flex into the systems.

I'd build it, and then if needed, you could just add the concrete.

I'd still be looking for a bit beefier headstock.

Where are you at Alfredo?

Cheers!
 
Your headstock is from a Delta 1460 heavy duty lathe, probably about a 1950 vintage or so. It will work fine for your project, it's actually the same one the guy used to build the one in the FWW article. Well, except for the bright yellow paint job:D

The 1460 headstock uses a spindle that is right on line with many of the larger modern lathes such as the PM90. Take a look at the various spindles for yourself and decide if it's stout enough.
3721-C.jpg

A VFD and 2-3hp 3ph motor would be a nice addition to get down to the slow speeds needed to rough out big blanks. I restored a 1950's 1460 and added a VFD and 2hp/3ph. The ability to control the speed from zero to 100% with the flick of the wrist and the ability to reverse is well worth the effort. If I were to do it again I would definitely go the same route.

Stay away from the link belts. A belt transfers power via friction, link belts by there very design have a whole lot of surface area missing. That translates into reduced power transmission ability, in short, it'll slip under much less load than a regular belt. The other issue is link belts are not reversible, if you want the ability to reverse then take that into consideration also.

Mike
 
Great info Mike!

Some would argue over the power transfer thing of linked belts, but the reverse thing, I'd not thought of that, great catch! :thumb:
 
Jeff I am ecstatic to be here, thank you for the invitation to come here.

Stuart... I am in Tampa, Florida.

Mike, Thank you for the information and the picture. Actually I did not buy the headstock because I want to see other options first. So what you are saying gives me a whole new perspective because I have seen that many of you guys have made your own headstock. I am thinking at that option too, but my major concern is aligning the two bearings so the spindle does not wobble. Regarding the ability to change speed and reverse the motor. I have found that motor with variable speed are very expensive and my knowledge about electricity is very poor:(. The reverse part I can handle. I already build a sculpting stand tha goes up and down using a reverse mode.

Bill, thank you for that information because speed was something that I was asking myself. As Mike said it definitely is a good feature to have. Great link but I got lost in the middle of it. It is to technical. I think I ma going to print it and read it over and over until it sinks in. I can handle maechanical stuf, but electrical:dunno::dunno::dunno:
 
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You can definitely make your own headstock if you have access to metalworking machines. If you don't, then a pre made headstock will put you well on your way to success. The headstock is the most important part of the lathe, everything else is just part of the supporting cast so you need to do it right.

A VFD and 3ph motor is the easiest way to get variable speed and reverse. There is only 1 moving part, the motor, and no additional alignment problems with reeves drives, jack shafts etc. Despite the outrageous prices you hear on the internet, the reality is you can pick up a 220v single phase input, 220v 3 phase output, 2 hp VFD for $145, or a 3 hp unit will run $185. Used 3 phase motors are dirt cheap. for example, I paid $25 for the "used" 2hp/3ph motor I used on my lathe. For less than $200 for the VFD, motor and controls, I powered my lathe with variable speed and reverse.

http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showpost.php?p=63196&postcount=13

Don't get wrapped around the axle with the "inverter duty", open, closed, TEFC motor arguments. You'll hear all sorts of arguments, and yes, there is the "perfect" solution, but any quality motor will serve you well. I always smile a little when I hear the predictions that only a "inverter duty, TEFC" motor will work or you'll die a slow and painful death. Apparently nobody told all those old, open case motors still running in many shops. Need proof? If you look close at this pic of Jeff's sweet vintage jointer and motor, there's actually shavings inside the motor. Reality trumps theory every time.
101_1253.JPG
In short, have fun and built it, there's really nothing mysterious about building a lathe.

Mike
 
Mike thank you for the encouragement and information. I am going to definitely find a headstock already made to avoid a major pain latter on. Also, I am going to definitely take the motor that you are describing route. It sounds like that with these two elements I will be set to go in no time. A couple of more question though, can I do the same thing with 115volts instead of 220? I do have 220 connections but are devoted to another equipments and hate the rigid 220 extention cords. And, if I get this type of motor system what headstock will I need? because I suppose that I will not need the pulley system any more, will I not?

Bill, your thread is going to help me a lot with all this process that mike is sharing with me

Thanks again


Alfredo
 
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I believe that what I am going to say is the stupidest idea you have ever heard but I am going to say it anyways:rofl: What about if I take an old heavy duty bench grinder, attach a pulley to one end of the spindle and a customized threaded adaptor (to attach the lathe accessories) on the other end, then attached this to a 1 or 1.5 hp VFD motor. Would I not have a headstock right there?:huh:
 
I don't have an answer...but there are no stupd ideas here :)...sometimes ideas turn out to be bad or even crazy, but you can't find out if it's a bad idea without asking first...that's cheaper(sometimes safer) than doing first. :p
 
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