(part 2 of 3)
Later in the week I attached a partial a solid oak face frame to the plywood carcass. 32 dowels spread over 13 feet had to be in the right place for a single glue-up. They were in the right place and the face frame fit very well.
I have a couple things to say about the face frame shown in the earlier photo. First of all it is not a complete face frame because both the top and bottom rails are missing. I was too much of a wimp to attempt to attach those as well as the stiles to the carcass in one BIG glue-up. So, I added them later. This necessitated connecting the rails to the styles with something other than dowels. Hidden pocket holes proved to handle this job very well, as shown in a photo below of the back side of a rail drilled with both pocket holes and dowel holes.
The other thing is that the plans did not call for the middle cross-piece. I felt it was needed in order to keep cabinet sides in alignment. The cross piece attaches to the stiles with two dowels at each joint. That appears to be very strong and has convinced me to construct the door frame using dowels rather than mortise and tenons.
Another change that I made was to add a couple of extra pieces at the bottom back to sit on the floor and distribute the weight better. The photo below shows then being glued into place.
Of course, they were later screwed as well.
2008 Jan 13:
The hall cabinet, without a door, is now in the hall. Finishing it to this stage took less time than I expected it to but changing electrical outlets and circuits took a LOT more time than I expected it to. I inserted
Brass sleeves (116 of them) into all the shelf support holes (as shown in the picture below). This adds to the professional look of the cabinet and makes it much easier remove and insert the support paddles.
The picture below shows three 12 volt lights being installed at the top of the cabinet.
An electrical receptacle was needed behind the cabinet. The closest source of electricity was above the washing machine. The hall light switch was in the position where the receptacle was needed and, since it would be blocked, it had to be moved. All this required a work on three different circuits and the installation of wire and boxes. So here was the ‘game’ plan:
-Move the switch in the hall to the Laundry Room just inside the doorway (as one of a gang of 3 switches),It sounds easy and it would have been except that I needed to cut into the walls to access wire and install boxes. This made a below shows holes in the Laundry Room wall part way through the work. The second one shows that some progress has been made. Things are operational again, but there are still holes to be dealt with. I will probably make a small shelf to cover them.
-Tap into the receptacle behind the washing machine and run a line to the previous location of the switch in the hall,
-Connect a switch to the new receptacle in the hall (as one of the gang),
-While I am at it, pigtail all the aluminum wiring in the boxes.
Attachment 17613 Attachment 17611
There was a really big hole around the new receptacle in the hall, so I made this big plate to cover it out of plywood.
It looks very strange but will be hidden by the cabinet.