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Thread: How to prep jointer surface?

  1. #1

    How to prep jointer surface?

    Hi everyone, I've had my 6 inch jointer for about 1.5 years and it is time for some upkeep. It feels very clean but it has become increasingly difficult to slide the wood across the intake and outtake surfaces. I used to be able to easily glide the pieces across the tool but now I have to apply a lot of pressure to keep it moving. Like it's made of molasses.

    I'm a maintenance rookie. Does it need a waxing or something?

    Thanks for any insight!
    -dan

  2. #2
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    Wax it up! Johnson's Paste Wax works wonders!

  3. #3
    Thanks for confirming my suspicions and I apologize for such a newbie question.

    Any special tips for applying the wax?

    Thanks,
    -dan

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Birnbaum View Post
    Thanks for confirming my suspicions and I apologize for such a newbie question.

    Any special tips for applying the wax?

    Thanks,
    -dan
    ahhhh Grasshopper wax on , wax off, Buff rots
    Daily Thought: SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES..... NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS...............

  5. #5
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    Make darn sure the sharp blades are turned so you can't slice your fingers while putting the wax on, turn them, and then clamp the belt on the pulley to make sure they do not move!

    Cheers!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Birnbaum View Post
    Thanks for confirming my suspicions and I apologize for such a newbie question.

    Any special tips for applying the wax?

    Thanks,
    -dan
    No apologies necessary for newbie questions. We've all had 'em at one point or another.

    I've found if the table is gunked up, I like to apply the wax with 0000 steel wool. It seems to help loosen the crud. I also sometimes don't buff the surface afterwards, if I want to leave a thicker wax coating. (Like on my lathe beds before and after turning wet wood.) You can try it both ways and see which you like better. If you get it on thicker than you want, it comes off real easily with mineral spirits.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
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    workingwoods.com

  7. #7
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    Definitely wax the tables, but what about the blades? Are they sharp?

    Dull blades can make the workpiece harder to push across the machine - mainly because they're working harder to make the cut. If you've had the jointer for 1˝ years, and haven't changed the blades yet then they're likely dull, and a significant part of your problem.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  8. #8
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    Sounds like your tables need more than just wax. They should never get sticky. Sounds like they need a good cleaning and perhaps polishing.

    Here is how to restore a table that has gone to pot. Probably will not apply to your situation but ..... Polishing Rusty Cast Iron.
    God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway,
    the good fortune to run into the ones I do,
    and the eyesight to tell the difference.


    Kudzu Craft Lightweight Skin on frame Kayaks.
    Custom built boats and Kits

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Birnbaum View Post
    Thanks for confirming my suspicions and I apologize for such a newbie question.

    Any special tips for applying the wax?

    Thanks,
    -dan
    Remove your guard and wedge your knives in a safe position (not exposed) before you begin. If I'm going after a surface that hasn't had attention in awhile (I usually wax about once a month whether it needs it or not) I will clean the surface first with mineral spirits on a synthetic pad. I mount the pad to a palm sander if things are really bad.

    After cleaning just wipe it down with paper towels till they come away clean and then wax it up. When the wax just starts to fog wipe it off like the Karate-Kid. Repeat as desired and don't skimp on the fence.

    Now that everything is all waxed up, check those knives. Are they razor sharp? If not pick up a new set to use while your old set is at the sharpeners. ;-)
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 02-18-2008 at 09:59 PM.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    I keep a green scotchbrite pad in the can of Johnsons Paste Wax I use for my machine tables. The wax has some ammonia or other cleaning solvent in it so I scrub the table as I'm applying the wax. Places where the pad wants to bite in, I scrub a bit more till it doesn't bite anymore. Give it a minute or three to dry just a bit, then buff it with a clean terrycloth shop towel. No need to let it dry and get crustee before buffing, it'll leave enough wax on the surface to suffice.
    Jerry

    http://www.sawdustersplace.com

    "If politics wasn't built on careful deception it wouldn't need its own word and techniques. It would just be called honesty, education, and leadership."
    Bob "Phydeaux" Stewart one day on Woodnet

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