Nice choice Vaughn...
If I had to buy a new saw I think I would go with the MS360. I have the older version of a MS460...and while I like the power, it's a touch heavy. I think the MS360 would be the right combination between power and weight...at least for what I do.
As for the brand, you could not have picked a better one in my opinion. There really are only two professional brands, Stihl and Husquvarna. The Husky turns up faster with more rpms, so it tends to take a smaller bite, but more of them per minute so the cutting speed is the same. The Stihl turns slower, but can take more of a bite because of the increase in torque it has. Which one is better depends on your style of cutting.
Myself I like to file my chain so it takes out noodles (long strands of wood) rather then smaller chips. I like torque to do that so the Stihl works better for me. I also like the saw to really churn through the wood, with the HuskyI have pictured in my Avatar, I was constantly cutting, then backing off, being careful to feed the saw at the right rate to keep it from bogging down in the cut, or stopping the chain altogether.
So by now Stihl and Husky end up being a preference thing. The reason Stihl are better then the Husky's are because of the piston rings. Stihl has two,while Husky has one. Since Stihl are retaining more of the explosions via the better seal, they turn slower,but have more torque. They also run, much, much cooler and this is where the longevity comes in. The double seal keeps a lot of the gases out of the lower crankcase area. This is where you seize chainsaw motors up. I have had my Stihl for 15 years and done some hard logging with it. My 272 Husky...in the same environment, seized up in 9 months. Both saws are about the same cc size and professional class, but there is a reason Husky's are a lot cheaper then Stihl.
One thing EVERYONE can do...no matter the make, size or brand...is to keep the saw sharp. A dull saw makes YOU work and being tired and chainsaws don't mix. Another reason is heat. A dull saw heats the chain up. You can see this when the chain slackens up a lot...heat is expanding the links on the sawchain and making it "loosen up". This heat also goes into the saw bar which is bolted onto the chassis of the saw. This transfers heat right where you don't want it. Right in the lower crankcase area of the saw. Again heat here causes crankshaft seizures.
Anyone can take this advice and toss it out the window if they will. When I became a Certified Logger I thought a full day spent on chainsaws was a bit excessive. 20 minutes into the class I was taking notes. Oh I had so much to learn, and still do, but chainsaws are simple machines with very complicated saw teeth. Simple little things make a huge difference in performance and longevity.
I have no intention of traveling from birth to the grave in a manicured and well preserved body; but rather I will skid in sideways, totally beat up, completely worn out, utterly exhausted and jump off my tractor and loudly yell, "Wow, this is what it took to feed a nation!"