Very Very Newbie

[Kane Wilson]

Well, I've been trolling for a little while now and for my first post, I'll request some help. Hopefully in the future I can contribute something to the site.
I recently purchased an old craftsman table saw and jointer. Got some hand tools and a small bandsaw.
I have learned quite a bit from just reading the forums and appreciate this site immensley. However, my first project is to finish a cedar chest that I made back in high school, 30 years ago It's been sitting in my Mom and Dad's basement all these years. My question's for you is, what finish should I put on it? Can I even put a finish on it after all these years? I'll be picking it up tomorrow and I'll post a pic of it then. Thanks for the help.

[Don Taylor]

Hi there Kane!

Welcome to the Family!

Where are you located?

DT

[Ad de Crom]

Hi Kane, wellcome to this great family, have fun

[Kane Wilson]

Hi there Kane!

Welcome to the Family!

Where are you located?

DT

Sorry 'bout that, I updated my profile.
Thanks for the welcome guys.

[Al killian]

Do you know what is on there now? Maybe give it a good sanding and then wipe it down with minerail spirts. After that a nice coat of oil will look nice.

[Stuart Ablett]

Welcome to the Family Kane!

Look forward to seeing you 30 year old project, I think you have most of us beat on the "I will get it finished....." time clock for projects

Does the wood have any finish on it at all?

If not, a good cleanings and some light sanding should set you up for any finish you like.

Oh yeah, let's see some pics of the old C-man tools, the old ones were usually fairly good, to real good!

Cheers!

[glenn bradley]

First off, welcome. Second, if your cedar has no finish you are pretty free to do as you like. Cedar comes in many flavors but I'm going to bet you have eastern red cedar. If you are after a warm natural look, get yourself some good sandpaper (Norton 3X or better quality) about 220 grit and give your piece a "cleaning off". This assumes it may be a bit weathered and was not stored in a plastic bag inside a box for the last 30 years.

I prefer a 1 pound cut of shellac as a pre-stain treatment if I am going to oil softwoods. If shellac will be the final finish, use a 2 pound cut. As a point of reference; Zinsser's Seal Coat is a 2 pound cut right out of the can (about $7 a quart at the big box stores). This can be hit 1:1 with denatured alcohol if it is to be a sealer as opposed to a final coat.

You could also go straight to an oil with no sealer. This can sometimes give a blotchy finish on softer woods depending on the wood itself. Boiled Linseed Oil will darken more than a Tung or Walnut oil and take longer to dry (as in days). Tung oil 'blends' offer a warm look and a good drying time (Waterlox is popular).

All this info is given with no idea as to the type or condition of the cedar. If you would like to post a pic once you have the box in your hot little hands we can probably help more-better ;-)

[Drew Watson]

Welcome to the family Kane, If you are going to be sanding the cedar make sure that you use a good dust mask as cedar is toxic. Look forward to seeing this 30 yr old project.

[Norman Hitt]

Welcome, Kane. Look forward to seeing your project, (and the old tools). I still have the old Craftsman TS and Jointer I gave my dad back in the 50's, (along with my newer High dollar tools), and wouldn't think of getting rid of them. (Shouldn't have traded off the Lathe that went with them that I made a lot of Lamps on when I was in HS).

[Bob Spare]

Welcome Kane
Was at one time a neighbor of yours. Born raised in Howell.
Now live in Fort Wayne,

PS
"The coffee Pot is on"