The whole DNA thing?

Paul Downes

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Westphalia, Michigan
O.k. I have read several posts about DNA soaking bowls and such, but......I haven't done it yet. Some questions answered all in one place is in order.

Where is the cheapest place to get 5 gallons?

How long do you let a wrapped bowl dry?

How long do you soak a bowl?

And do you guys actually boil some of them in DNA?

I have used the LDD method but have not sold any of those bowls because they warp a lot and I want to avoid that issue. I realize that warping adds character and so forth, but I want to sell round bowls because I think most customers would respond more positively. (It just doesn't look right to have a premo birdseye maple bowl turn into a taco)
 
O.k. I have read several posts about DNA soaking bowls and such, but......I haven't done it yet. Some questions answered all in one place is in order.

Where is the cheapest place to get 5 gallons?
I've been buying a gallon at a time at the local Borg or hardware store. I'll let others chime in on where they've found 5-gallon quantities.

How long do you let a wrapped bowl dry?
About 3 weeks to a months...I just wait until it feels dry, and not cool to the touch. (Not very scientific, I know, but it seems to work.)

How long do you soak a bowl?
I usually shoot for about 24 hours, but if I leave i an extra day or so I don't worry about it.

And do you guys actually boil some of them in DNA?
I've heard of heard that one...seems like it could get real dangerous real quick.

I have used the LDD method but have not sold any of those bowls because they warp a lot and I want to avoid that issue. I realize that warping adds character and so forth, but I want to sell round bowls because I think most customers would respond more positively. (It just doesn't look right to have a premo birdseye maple bowl turn into a taco)

I think regardless of the drying method you use, the wood is gonna warp - some more, and some less. For that reason, a lot of folks leave the walls thicker when they rough turn, then after the piece is dry, the put it back on the lathe and re-turn it round. If you don't leave the walls thick enough, there's not enough wood left to do so.
 
I am starting to sound like a broken record but go to Dave Smith's information that was posted in the threads. I weigh the bowls as was described in the information. I got my scale at Sams Club (not very expensive). Everything is addressed there-soaking time, wrapping, etc.

I got my denatured alcohol in 5 gal. pails from a local paint shop that gave me a great deal.

Don't boil denatured alcohol!
 
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Boiling DNA? :eek:
Methinks applying heat to alcohol to boil it could be a very risky venture.
Jim King boils blanks and roughed bowls in water. He has the process down pat. He is a member but doesn't spend much time here. Write him and ask. Nice guy.
 
You have gotten lots of great info. I rough turn the walls to 10% of the bowl diameter. I soak my bowls for 24 to 72 hrs. I then take them out to flash dry. I wrap mine in a brown grocery sack and cut a opening in the bowl part. Place them upside down on a Wal-Mart cooling rack in a cool, dry place without much air flow. I let them dry from 2 to 4 weeks.

Boiling wood in DNA seems like a death wish to me. :eek::eek:
 
I always assumed when someone said they put a bowl or what ever in the DNA to "boil" that was just a type of "slang" for placing in the solution :dunno:

Boy, if someone is saying that it could cause some real problems for someone who does not know any better than to try to boil alcohol. Are you sure they were not talking about boiling it in water? Steve Russell presented that method many years ago.
 
Thanks for the info.

Thanks for your pointers. Oh yah, Boiling alcohol sounded about like trying to smoke gun powder to me. :eek: I just thought I'd throw that question in there 'cause I've heard people talking about boiling bowls.

I was under the impression that the alcohal soak resulted in less warpage than some of the other methods. The most concentric bowls I've turned had come out of 3" thick birdseye maple boards that had been air drying for 10+ years. I'm not that patient anymore. (I wasn't a woodworker nor turner when I got those planks)

I just picked up some premo blank material in the last week or two. A friend of mine bought 20 yards of butt cut offs from a high falootan sawmill that processes veneers and figured woods, as well as general hardwoods and sawlogs. Anyway, there was curly cherry, curley maple, walnut, etc. I charged him a sawing tax and got a huge curl maple crotch butt, and a 20" square cherry crotch block. He doesn't have a chainsaw right now and I was just helping him out.:D I don't wish any of these bowls to warp. Please, please, please. I'll try to post some pictures.
 
Another note

I am fortunate to have several industrial vacuum pumps. It would seem that pulling a vacuum on a bowl in alcohol would considerably speed up the soak time and ensure complete penetration. I just might have to put a charcol filter in line to keep the alcohol out of the pump. (maybe a worthless precaution)

Maybe a few experiments of soaking, and vacuum drying are in order?
 
...Maybe a few experiments of soaking, and vacuum drying are in order?
Hmmm...sounds interesting. I've not heard of anyone doing it, but it seems it would be worth a shot. (Maybe not on the big blanks you just got, at least until you've tried it and seen it work on more "expendible" pieces.) ;)
 
Vaughn, I have had the experiance of looking at a vacuum kiln up close. It's basicly a vacuum chamber that opens like a clam shell in which you stack up wood with heat tape sandwiched in between each layer. The tape (Nicad flat wire) is heated cyclicly and the water is removed by vacuum. The advantage of a vacuum kiln is that you can dry thick stock pretty quickly. I understand that it is the only way to dry 3"+ thick white oak and not get honeycombing or cracks.

All that being said, I wonder if the wife will miss the toaster? Actually, I'll think about something rather primitive like a light bulb on a timer to provide heat. Maybe stick the bulb inside the bowl? Thar might do the inside out drying thing.

It will be a while before I get to play with this idea. I've got to build a workbench and several cabinets first. Also, our stainless steel dish washer just gave up the ghost and I'm thinking pen blank kiln. Never a lack of stuff to do.

Thanks Barbara, for the paint store tip. I was a bit sceered of the $18-20/gallon price of alcohol at the big box stores.
 
Initial purchaseof Alcohol is the only cost problem as you can re-use repeatedly. Just add a bit to the mix. 5 gal????:eek: Geeze I would say a gallon should fill all your needs. A way to assure small amunts needed would be to soak larger bowls in a plastic bag, that way the bag forms to the size and shap and allows total contact with the alcohol, without filling the large open space of a big container.

After soaking, save the liquid for another soak with another piece, there will natural depetion of the volume which you can increase over time and the potency may depleat as well but even at a severly diluted state, it is still effective, Natural adding of alcohol to the solution keeps the strength up. Been using mine for a couple of years and still have the same effect. Albet it is somewhat stained or soiled it still functions If I leave it soaking overnight.

My slant on the conversations
 
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