Like Bill, I was surprised that joint tests under controlled conditions proved some assumed joints to not be what I expected. It only seems logical that dovetails would be stronger or pegged joints would be stronger. It just didn't prove out in the lab. The pegged M&T were only a little bit weaker than the non-pegged in FWW's test and Wood mags test also showed them to be very close.
To quote FWW magazines article:
"So what does all of this mean? I think some woodworkers may need to rethink commonly held beliefs regarding mortise-and tenon and dovetail joinery—both in terms of strength, as well as in how the joints fail."
I use bridle joints now and again for door frame and panel construction. I also use them on web frames for drawers. I have had no problems with them but I've only been doing this for a few years so none of my pieces has 'stood the test of time'. If you can sub bridles for the laps, I would. If you decide to go pegs but don't want them to show, sink them from the back (or the unobserved) side without going all the way through the front face (?). Just an idea.
Last edited by glenn bradley; 03-20-2008 at 04:01 AM.
Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
- Arthur C. Clarke