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Thread: Leaking Pen

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Independence Ky
    Posts
    117

    Leaking Pen

    I decided to check out this pen making that seems to popular and fun. So I go to my not so local, (not sure I can say the name) pen/blank/kits/rock store. Spend $325.00 on all the cool pen blanks and polishing stuff and 7mm pen kits.
    I make 3 nice pens to show off at the family Easter gathering thinking I would get some feedback as to who I should consider making one as a gift. Well of course I put them in my shirt pocket ($75.00 shirt) Sorry I did not have a pocket protector. Of coarse 1 leaks leaving a nice black ink blob on my shirt (now a shop rag). I did not get the response I was hoping for because who wants a pen that leaks? They look nice but they LEAK.
    Unbelievable, that I went to this store thinking they only sell the best product on the market.
    I contacted the manager at the store and told him of my shall we say my (unfortunate experience). He is going to refund me for the kits I bought and see what he can do to make my unfortunate experience better.
    I am hoping that he will make me an offer equal to the $75 shirt.

    Has this leaking ink thing happened to anyone else? The manager told me he has had similar problems with the 8mm pen kits.
    I will update the offer made by manager when I recieve it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Melbourne, FL
    Posts
    472
    Get some rollerball kits from CraftSupplies.


    They sell quality pen kits.

    A Jr Gentleman would be a good start.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    Posts
    11,833
    What kind of kits were they? No pen should leak. Glad he took them back. Advice to purchase from a reputable supplier, like CS is good. Several of us here do pens. Ask for help anytime.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Independence Ky
    Posts
    117
    Thanks Pete, I will check them out.
    Frank, I got my kits at Rockler so I thought they would be high quality. They are 7mm pen kits stock #61263 streamline ball point. They are $3.69 for one, but I bought 10 to try them out.
    I'm hoping I just got 1 bad one and it was just bad luck?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ NM
    Posts
    30,020
    Brad, I haven't had any leakage problems with any of the pen kits I've used, including those from Rockler. I'm guessing yours was a rare exception. Just so you know though, the Rocker pen kits are really not all that high of quality. Servicable, but there are better kits available. Also keep in mind that the 7mm slimline kits (regardless of brand) are generally the lowest-quality kits a manufacturer offers.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Independence Ky
    Posts
    117
    Hello Vaughn,
    I dont know anything about the quality of pens available out there. I kinda got what was least expensive to get started until I improve my skill level.
    Thanks for your info.
    It's funny, when I first loggod on and said I had got a lathe everyone said "open wallet and take a picture of money" I didnt think to take it literlly. WOW by the time I get a few gagets and what-nots my lathe turned out to be the cheap part of this hobby.
    After I practice a bit on these pens I will buy a higher quality. I just need to research the best places to get them.
    Does anyone prefer wood or acrylic, or both?
    I have a deer antler I'm trying to work into a pen, drilling it out is like being at the dentist. (drillind thru bone)
    Thanks for the advise.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    University Place, WA
    Posts
    101
    Brad, never had a leaking pen, or a pocket protector, ! I have gotten a LOT of kits from http://www.woodturningz.com/SlimlinePenKits.aspx and never had a problem with their slimlines. At 1.70 per kit and about 1.00 per blank, IMOP it is a great way to learn, and cheap. Have also used a number of their other kits with only one problem and they made it right with a phone call.
    ,
    Last edited by Scott Donley; 03-24-2008 at 09:10 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Independence Ky
    Posts
    117
    Thanks Scott,
    That is a much better price than what I paid (about $7.50) per pen x 10,so it looks like I've pretty much blown $75 . Oh yeah plus $75 for the shirt. Man this is killen me.

    Not to mention the 90 mile round trip in a Ford Expedition at maybe 20 mi. per gallon. OUCH
    $200 lesson the hard way.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Melbourne, FL
    Posts
    472

    extra tubes

    Buy a few extra brass tubes when you buy a better kit.

    Glue it up, turn it and if you do not like it - toss it. You are then out $0.50 for the tube set plus the blank.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ NM
    Posts
    30,020
    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Hungler View Post
    Hello Vaughn,
    I dont know anything about the quality of pens available out there. I kinda got what was least expensive to get started until I improve my skill level.
    Thanks for your info.
    It's funny, when I first loggod on and said I had got a lathe everyone said "open wallet and take a picture of money" I didnt think to take it literlly. WOW by the time I get a few gagets and what-nots my lathe turned out to be the cheap part of this hobby.
    After I practice a bit on these pens I will buy a higher quality. I just need to research the best places to get them.
    Does anyone prefer wood or acrylic, or both?
    I have a deer antler I'm trying to work into a pen, drilling it out is like being at the dentist. (drillind thru bone)
    Thanks for the advise.
    Brad, you did fine with the Rockler kits. Slimlines (regardless of brand) are a good way to start out. We've all had similar lessons at one point or another. Pete's advice about getting some extra tubes is spot on, too. It becomes more important as you start turning more expensive kits.

    Regarding wood vs. acrylic...I'd say I've turned about 50-50 of each. I like the acrylics because they are faster to finish - no finish per se, just wet sand to 400 or 600 grit, then buff with tripoli then white diamond. Of course, that requires yet another tool...a buffer with various buffing wheels.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

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