Norman Hitt
Member
- Messages
- 1,810
- Location
- Odessa, Tx
Unfortunately I have no Pics, because the LOML still can't remember where she hid the camera.
Due to having to store a lot of construction mat'l (and other junk for the time being) in my shop besides the tools, and the rolling scaffold I'm using while working on the walls, I can hardly move around in there. Needless to say this does not allow the necessary room to use the Factory Mobility Kit on my MM-20 which needs to be moved from time to time as the work on the shop progresses to different areas. After seeing the posts by others here, (and another forum or two about the Great Lakes Castors, (which fit my present budget much better than the Higher Dollar Brand), I ordered the LV-1710-NYP-S-M12 Castors, (which according to their description are rated at 220 lbs capacity in motion, and 550 lbs capacity when the stabilizer leg is extended). They actually arrived 2 days sooner than the "Tracking" said they would. (That was a surprise)
It took less than 30 min to install them and remove the Factory Mobility kit, (after discovering the supplied mounting bolts were too short, but that the leveling bolts supplied with the MM-20 would work).
Note: Although the MM leveling bolts will work, a 2 3/8" long Allen bolt, or a (2 1/2" max) would be better).
Note 2: When using an alternate mounting bolt, it will NOT have the little "HOLLOW" in the end that goes into the castor assy like the Great Lakes supplied bolts do, so you want MAKE SURE that the mounting bolt stops just short of the screw head that is down inside that holds the stabilizer adjusting assy in place. """If you jam the mounting bolt against that screw, I don't think you will be able to turn the stabilizer adjuster""".
To lift the saw, I merely placed a 12" x 12" piece of 3/4" ply on the floor for the mobility kit Johnson Bar wheels to ride on to get the front to lift high enough to place a short length of 2 x 4 on edge under the front, (the end of the saw the foot brake is on) , and then assembled the Castors by screwing the mounting bolt into the castor and then screwing the supplied nut onto the mounting bolt and locking it against the castor assy).
Note: The lock nut will go up inside the slightly larger hole in the metal channel of the Saw's Base structure and will not keep the main castor assy from fitting flush against that piece for a solid connection.
I installed the Castors by holding the castor's mounting bolt up under the saw against the threaded hole in the MM baseplate and inserted a "T" handle 6mm Allen wrench through that hole from the top and into the mounting bolt and then turned it counter clockwise until it screwed the assembly up tight against the baseplate. I finished tightening the castor assy to the saw with a large Channel lock from below.
To lift the other end of the saw was easy since the base was already off the floor because of the Factory mobility kit, so I just used a 3' long bar and a block of 2 x 4 and lifted that end enough to place the 2 x 4 scraps on edge under it and the rest of the install was the same as the other end. Although it wasn't necessary, I then removed the two mounting Bolts, Bar and wheels of the Factory mobility kit and stored them away.
Although lengthy, I hope this may make it easier for others who may be considering installing these castors on their saw.
The wheels on these castors are quite small, and the corresponding clearance from the floor to the metal of the castor's wheel axle housing is also quite short, (which COULD possibly create a problem to roll on very rough concrete floors or over debris on the floor), but they seem to roll OK on my floor and appear to be strong/stable enough to handle the MM-20 very well.
Would I have preferred a little larger diameter wheels, .....of course, but for the price difference, I think these will work quite well.
Due to having to store a lot of construction mat'l (and other junk for the time being) in my shop besides the tools, and the rolling scaffold I'm using while working on the walls, I can hardly move around in there. Needless to say this does not allow the necessary room to use the Factory Mobility Kit on my MM-20 which needs to be moved from time to time as the work on the shop progresses to different areas. After seeing the posts by others here, (and another forum or two about the Great Lakes Castors, (which fit my present budget much better than the Higher Dollar Brand)
, I ordered the LV-1710-NYP-S-M12 Castors, (which according to their description are rated at 220 lbs capacity in motion, and 550 lbs capacity when the stabilizer leg is extended). They actually arrived 2 days sooner than the "Tracking" said they would. (That was a surprise)It took less than 30 min to install them and remove the Factory Mobility kit, (after discovering the supplied mounting bolts were too short, but that the leveling bolts supplied with the MM-20 would work).
Note: Although the MM leveling bolts will work, a 2 3/8" long Allen bolt, or a (2 1/2" max) would be better).
Note 2: When using an alternate mounting bolt, it will NOT have the little "HOLLOW" in the end that goes into the castor assy like the Great Lakes supplied bolts do, so you want MAKE SURE that the mounting bolt stops just short of the screw head that is down inside that holds the stabilizer adjusting assy in place. """If you jam the mounting bolt against that screw, I don't think you will be able to turn the stabilizer adjuster""".
To lift the saw, I merely placed a 12" x 12" piece of 3/4" ply on the floor for the mobility kit Johnson Bar wheels to ride on to get the front to lift high enough to place a short length of 2 x 4 on edge under the front, (the end of the saw the foot brake is on) , and then assembled the Castors by screwing the mounting bolt into the castor and then screwing the supplied nut onto the mounting bolt and locking it against the castor assy).
Note: The lock nut will go up inside the slightly larger hole in the metal channel of the Saw's Base structure and will not keep the main castor assy from fitting flush against that piece for a solid connection.
I installed the Castors by holding the castor's mounting bolt up under the saw against the threaded hole in the MM baseplate and inserted a "T" handle 6mm Allen wrench through that hole from the top and into the mounting bolt and then turned it counter clockwise until it screwed the assembly up tight against the baseplate. I finished tightening the castor assy to the saw with a large Channel lock from below.
To lift the other end of the saw was easy since the base was already off the floor because of the Factory mobility kit, so I just used a 3' long bar and a block of 2 x 4 and lifted that end enough to place the 2 x 4 scraps on edge under it and the rest of the install was the same as the other end. Although it wasn't necessary, I then removed the two mounting Bolts, Bar and wheels of the Factory mobility kit and stored them away.
Although lengthy, I hope this may make it easier for others who may be considering installing these castors on their saw.
The wheels on these castors are quite small, and the corresponding clearance from the floor to the metal of the castor's wheel axle housing is also quite short, (which COULD possibly create a problem to roll on very rough concrete floors or over debris on the floor), but they seem to roll OK on my floor and appear to be strong/stable enough to handle the MM-20 very well.
Would I have preferred a little larger diameter wheels, .....of course, but for the price difference, I think these will work quite well.
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