faceplate question

Square drive (Robertson) sheet metal screws are about the best, I would think.

If you want more holding power, then go with hex drive, lag bolts, but be sure to pre-drill for those.

NEVER use drywall screws, they are very hard, and thus brittle, they WILL break, which WILL wreak your day.

Cheers!
 
My latest favorite are relatively thin (#10 or #8, I don't remember offhand) hex head lag bolts, about 1 1/2" long. I drive them with my 14.4v impact driver and no pilot holes. (Green wood only. For dry wood I'd be drilling the holes.) Prior to that, I was using #10 or #8 pan head Phillips head sheet metal screws, also about 1 1/2" long. Robertson head sheet metals screw (as Stu mentioned) would also be good.
 
I have always used shanked Flathead Steel Wood screws. Reason is because the shank adds more shear resistance, But of late I have converted to Sheet metal screws (flathead) because woodscrews are getting harder to find and proper sized Sheet metal screws have enough mass to resist shear. Never less than a #10 or #12 screw. You need flathead screws to draw the faceplate snug and prevent any lateral movement.

Sorry Vaughn.... Always predrill pilot holes (even in green wood) driving screws into wood w/o pilot holes only starts the splitting process and has half the gripping strength (estimate w/o scientific study) as it opens/seperates the fiber structure to allow penetration of the screw similar to a nail, Remember that a screw is a coiled wedge and as such it pushes apart the fibers. Pilot holes allow for the threads to cut through individual fibers and create a secure holding surface.

Seldom use the same screw repeatedly as each time it is used metal fatique becomes more taxing and weakens the screw.
 
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