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Thread: First Time Trying Rattle-Can Laquer

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Red Deer, Alberta, Canada

    First Time Trying Rattle-Can Laquer

    I'm about to try using rattle-can laquer for the first time and would like some information.
    After I have a few coats on it I want to know how long I should let it cure before I apply a coat of wax and buff it.
    Also, is Shellawax Cream a good wax to put on it and if so, can I also use the Beall Buffing Wheel with Carnauba Wax on top of that? Or is that overkill?
    Some other method I should try?
    Any info would be appreciated.
    Why has common sense
    become so uncommon?

    My Woodwork Site

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Tokyo Japan
    Good old Rattle Can Lacquer

    Make sure you have enough ventilation, if you spray too much of that stuff in a confined space, I hear you grow long blonde hair, and move to a burb of LA, and take up the guitar

    One quick point, if it is at all cool or cold in your workshop, warm the can of lacquer up a bit, I use my heat gun on it's lowest setting, takes a few minutes, but the finish comes out of the can with much more vigor, and is atomized a lot better.

    >> DON'T use a blow torch to warm up your can of spray finish <<

    You can also do this with a pan of warm water, not HOT, or if you are a real smart thinking ahead kind of person, you can bring the can into the warmth of your home the night before.

    OK, on to your question, I like to wait at least a couple of days, but if I can put it off for a week, that is even better, especially if I'm power buffing the work.

    Oh........... what........... no pictures
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    ABQ NM
    Gord, I'm still trying to find my own favorite steps for rattle can lacquer (which is a misnomer, since the clear lacquer doesn't have a mixing ball to rattle). In most cases, if I'm trying to get a very smooth, high gloss 'grand piano' finish, I'll build up 3 to 6 light coats, hitting it lightly between each coat with 3M synthetic steel wool (white Scotch-Brite pad) to remove any dust nibs.

    After letting it sit for a few days, I'll wet sand lightly with 400 and/or 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper to remove any 'orange peel' in the finish surface, then go to the three-wheel buff. I use tripoli, white diamond, then usually instead of the carnauba wax, I'll apply Renaissance Wax by hand, let it dry, when buff it with the 'wax' buffing wheel.

    I don't know anything about the Shellawax cream, but if it has shellac in it, I'd not use it over lacquer. The carnauba that came with your Beall setup should be fine, though.

    I'm sure there are better ways, but that's the way that has been working pretty well for me lately.

    Oh...and for a more satin finish (like on a root ball that I don't want to try to buff), I'll build up a few coats of clear gloss lacquer, then top it with just one or two light coats of satin spray lacquer.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
    Thanks guys! I'll give it a try starting this afternoon and post pictures in a week or two when I'm finished.
    Finished! Get it? Finished?
    Oh man, I need more sleep!
    Why has common sense
    become so uncommon?

    My Woodwork Site

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