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bandsaw help round 2

jim capozzi

jim capozzi

Member
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280
Location
oswego county , upstate n.y.
hi all

ok i am working on a project for mom for mothers day . i set up my bandsaw with an 1/8th blade , readjusted everything to use this small of a blade . my problem is that the blade doesn't stay in between the blade guides (cool blocks) and i can't bring them any further foward . the blade is centered on the tires . any other ideas ? :dunno:

thanks in advance for the help

p.s. oops almost forgot its a 14" jet with a riser block ...:doh:
 
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I have experienced similar and resorted to making guides from Hard wood and letting them engulf the blade. But wait, you say you can't bring the guides forward? Something isn't right? :huh: Most problems are that the guides won't set back far enough and eat the set. Begin again and relieve the bottom guides as well as the top guides, (And especially the thrust bearings) remove them from the picture. Work on the tracking and tension till the blade is to your liking. Next move the thrust bearings into play, both top and bottom. Now the guides... I bet the bottom thrust bearing is keeping the blade ahead of the guides. Often we forget to make criticle adjustments below deck, (I know I have :eek:) Follow basics in setup and that should solve your delima :thumb:
 
Jim:

Ever since my organic chem professor spent half a class period changing an overhead projector bulb because it wasn't plugged in, I like to try to rule out stupid things.

Is there any chance one of your thrust bearings got moved too far forward?
 
Mark Kosmowski said:
...Ever since my organic chem professor spent half a class period changing an overhead projector bulb because it wasn't plugged in, I like to try to rule out stupid things...
Click to expand...
OT, but that reminds me of the time I spent several hours replacing the electronic ignition on a Jeep Wrangler...only to find it was simply out of gas. :doh:
 
1/8" blade:eek:.......3/4" radiused cuts?
whenever i need to use a blade smaller than 1/4" i`ll completely burry it in the guides......cool blocks will work well for this (they`ll sand back smooth when you`re done) or make sacrificial ones from wood. the thrust bearings are totally removed from the equation.
the way i set the blocks is to jamb them into the running blade so the teeth cut their own path in the blocks then lock down the blocks.
sam blasco showed a method tought to him by his grandfather that accomplishes the same thing using euro-style guides but i don`t have the link handy:eek:
 
tod evans said:
1/8" blade:eek:.......3/4" radiused cuts?
whenever i need to use a blade smaller than 1/4" i`ll completely burry it in the guides......cool blocks will work well for this (they`ll sand back smooth when you`re done) or make sacrificial ones from wood. the thrust bearings are totally removed from the equation.
the way i set the blocks is to jamb them into the running blade so the teeth cut their own path in the blocks then lock down the blocks.
sam blasco showed a method tought to him by his grandfather that accomplishes the same thing using euro-style guides but i don`t have the link handy:eek:
Click to expand...

hi todd , thats the problem i cant bring the guides foward far enough to burry the blade in them. i cant even hit the edge of the blade . this is only on the top guide , the bottom is fine .

i appreciate all the replies from everyone. everything else is set right like it should be ....... any other ideas :huh::dunno:
 
Got to pages 19 & 20 of your owner's manual, If you don't have one click on this pdf file and print one... http://content.jettools.com/manuals/M_708115K.pdf

Problem has to be coming from something holding the blade proud of the guides. If you have no problem with other blades then I suspect there is adjustment that has been moved.

Did you have this problem before the riser block? Has the assembly slipped and kicke the top wheel out of plane?

I still believe you need to back all guides out of the picture and start tracking anew. then move the guide into play.
 
updated info and another question

hello all ,

i hope this weekend finds you all well and in the shop making lotsa sawdust :wave:

ok i backed everything off on the bandsaw and started from scratch . i took away anything to do with blade guides , thrust beaings , and the like ... so it now just 2 cast iron wheels with urethane tires and the blade. i found that i couldn't keep the blade centered on the tires , or keep it from wandering around on the tires . it seems i have a bad bearing on the bottom wheel. i first noticed a small wobble while the saw is running, so i tried first to tighten the bolt in the center hub of the wheel . the only thing i found out by doing this is the bolt is reversed thread , it was already tight .

just how long should those bearings last ?? while i have had this saw for 4 years or so , i have done very little cutting with it overall . maybe a couple hundred feet of resawing and the occasional curve. really not much at all , i use my tablesaw for everything most of the time . could this bearing be shot already as it appears to be :dunno:

TIA grizzz
 
Failure after only four years is unfortunate. Methinks they should last much longer. (at this point, most are groaning "Frank is going to talk about his Grizzly now..." :( ) Yep, I am. :rolleyes: My Grizzly G0555 and the Jet 14" are said by some to be clones. My Griz is my #1 'go to' tool in my shop for all kinds of cutting. It is used daily, sometimes for only a couple small cuts, sometimes for several hours without stop. I have had it seven years. No problems. You may be just having bad luck. Methinks new bearings. Let us know how it goes.
 
Bearings SHOULD last longer but hey, things go wrong. Bearings go bad, you just got one that did. Doesn't matter if it is Grizzly, Jet or Laguna. They buy the bearings from a bearing manufactures and some small percentage fail early. You just got one out of that 1 percent. :dunno:

I have 50 year old machines in my shop with original bearings. I have had year old ones fail too. Such is life.
 
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