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Thread: wood plug question

  1. #1
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    wood plug question

    I cut the plugs, I use the identical pieces of wood.
    I turn the plugs into the holes with the grain running the same ways, I push it in, give it a good tap in, and when I cut off the plug and sand, most of the plugs seem to turn and the grain is always running a different way.
    What am I doing wrong?(do the plugs twist when I tap them with a mallet? Should I use a long nose pliers to hold them steady? Im afraid to scratch up the piece.) Is there a secret to something that seems so simple?IM sorry for asking such a simple question, but white oak is expensive in the north east, and I want the most out of my money. Thanx in advance for any help for such an easy question, I feel silly asking it here.

  2. #2
    Are you waiting for the glue to dry completely before you cut the plugs? If not then when you cut them they might turn. I know I've rushed to cut plugs myself and I've also noticed that the plugs I cut often are smaller than the hole I drilled. I think that's why commercial plugs are often tapered. I think it's a Levine thing to rush some things.

  3. #3
    Are you using tapered plugs? If not then you need to make certain that the glue is completely dry before you do anything about trimming them off. My advice - use tapered plugs and tap them firmly home with a 4-8oz plastic faced hammer.

    (I probably use about 20-30000 8mm plugs a year - can't say that I sweat desperately about grain alignment)

  4. #4
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    I used the plug cutter for mostly pretreated, which had no real grain showing, so I just matched the color, and before I had a cutter, I bought precut plugs for anything I did in pine or poplar.

    thanx for my answer, Id put in 15 plugs, maybe 20 minutes later, I cut them.
    Ill try waiting overnight to make sure the glue sets in.
    I do use a very hard rubber mallet to tap them in.

    Ian, I never saw the grain as a problem, but when I put 3 coats of varnish on white oak, without any other coloring or staining, it sticks out like a bad skin blemish on ones cheek.
    And its in the most visible spot usually, like on the arms of a chair, or the sides of a table.
    Ill just plug everything and let them all set overnight in the future.

  5. #5
    Allen,

    If you are using Titebond you probably don't have to wait overnight, a couple of hours should be enough.

  6. #6
    Bob Wiggins is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Quote Originally Posted by allen levine View Post
    I cut the plugs, I use the identical pieces of wood.
    I turn the plugs into the holes with the grain running the same ways, I push it in, give it a good tap in, and when I cut off the plug and sand, most of the plugs seem to turn and the grain is always running a different way.
    What am I doing wrong?(do the plugs twist when I tap them with a mallet? Should I use a long nose pliers to hold them steady? Im afraid to scratch up the piece.) Is there a secret to something that seems so simple?IM sorry for asking such a simple question, but white oak is expensive in the north east, and I want the most out of my money. Thanx in advance for any help for such an easy question, I feel silly asking it here.
    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>

    For those areas where perfection is top priority consider boring the hole a few thousandths small. Then using the shank of a sacrificed bit the correct size, swage and burnish the hole to the exact size. For a 3/8" burnished hole and plug a letter U bit works fairly well in hard woods and a 23/64" works most times in softer wood.

    If all the plugs are rotating the same direction the bored holes may be rifled and the burnish may prevent rotation.
    Last edited by Bob Wiggins; 05-18-2008 at 04:54 PM.

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