walnut hall table

Messages
141
Location
smithville,tx.
when i started the thread on the quilted mahogany table i said i was working on two pieces for the texas furniture makers show-this is the other piece, it's a walnut hall table-it's tall 36" the top is one board 15 1/2" wide and 70" long with the bread board ends-the secondary wood is sapodilla.
yesterday it looked like this -the only thing glued at this point is the cross pieces between the stretcher- oh and use your imagination for the drawers (i do)four of them- anyway this is where i'm at .
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this is how i started -i get the design in my mind , as you can see i don't do a lot of drawing-
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i pick a piece of walnut from my stash - i would like it to finish out 1" thick but you can see where the saw dipped in- so i run it across the jointer to 7/8" and i have to give up 11" of length to even get 7/8" minus a little.




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then i make a real size drawing
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i trace the leg on parchment paper for a templet
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checking the templet
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i would like to get all four legs out of the same board
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i get all four from this piece-it had a few funny knots so i had to do some funny sawing
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after i band saw the legs i plane them close to where i want to end up
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i pick out these two book-matched board that have a nice whorl from a crotch
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taking a look
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more to come-rounding off the sharp corners
alex
 
some of the more to come
each leg has two mortises for a through and wedged tenon -because the legs are curved each of the four stretcher has a bevel cut down it's length so the top side of the stretchers will be plumb- this puts the mortises at a off angle -to cut them on my neat red-necked rigged mortiser i would have to think up some odd jig to hold them so i drill them and trim clean with chisels.
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i cut the tenons on the band saw after i trim each to fit its mortise then i clamp all the parts that are cut out together-so i can take a look see-
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more to come-rounding off the sharp corners
alex
 
Hi Alex :wave:,
This is a wonderful project and well put together for us in the step by step. Thanks you. So often we see pictures of the material , then we see pictures of the finished product. Your photo and explanation are very good. Appreciate your input.
Shaz :)
 
next i lay out for the panel to fit into the leg-the panel will be in a groove in the leg and be doweled inside the grooved-to get the right points where the groove starts and stops i lay the leg and the panel board in place on the real size drawing and mark where they part-then i mark for the dowels.
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boring the dowel holes
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to cut the groove i clamp the legs to a straight board
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i plane the panel boards down to 1/2' and put it together on the most level place in my shop-the big jointer
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you know i'm really way past this-i glued the base together and cut out the drawer fronts today.
more to come-rounding off the sharp corners
alex
 
oh al in japan-the chisels are iyoroi-iv'e had them for about 10 years-also the last pic of the stand on the jointer the panels have little sapodilla bread-board ends-if you have never used sapodilla it's a beautiful wood much prized down south where it grows but if there was ever a wood you should wear a filter to keep from breathing the dust this is it-run a piece through the saw and two hours later you still taste it - if you never tasted a sapodillo fruit well one of lives little pleasures.

rounding off the sharp corners
alex
 
after the side panels are fit i lay out the cross pieces -three between the top two stretchers-the up-rights that the top sets on will be laminated to these cross pieces-the one cross piece between the two bottom stretchers has the same crotch whorl as the end panels and the same whorl is on the top.
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cutting the top pieces on the #1 saw-
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cutting the bottom piece on the #3 saw-
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the cross pieces are doweled -
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gluing the cross pieces
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laying out the sapodilla uprights
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the uprights are made from three pieces-the top and bottom were cut from the same piece of wood the center has the grain running up and down and is doweled between the other two
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rounding off the sharp corners
alex
 
Will the drawers be going between the 3 pedestals in the topmost pic? Right now it looks a bit visually disturbing to me - in my mind the pedestals clash with the graceful curves of the four legs. The craftsmanship looks phenomenal nonetheless though.

I'd be interested in seeing an end picture of the table to see how the pedestal profiles look with the curved legs.

I agree - thank you for the "play by play" - very educational!
 
Will the drawers be going between the 3 pedestals in the topmost pic? Right now it looks a bit visually disturbing to me - in my mind the pedestals clash with the graceful curves of the four legs. The craftsmanship looks phenomenal nonetheless though.

I'd be interested in seeing an end picture of the table to see how the pedestal profiles look with the curved legs.

I agree - thank you for the "play by play" - very educational!

yes the drawers will be between the pedestals -four drawers -the two top drawers will be hung from the table top-and the two bottom drawers will set on the stretchers-the drawer face is 3" and there will be a 3" space between the bottom and the top drawer-the drawers i hope bring it more together-also when finished a view from the end you will see the side of the drawers witch will be sapodilla the fronts will be walnut- i'm getting close to making the drawers and will post pics as soon as done.

rounding off the sharp corners
alex
 
after the cross pieces are glued and dried i take the ends off-they look a little fat in the middle so i plane a 1/4" off from the center to nothing towards the ends
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i make a templet for the curve on the flat sides
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it all looks good fits good so i glue it up.

rounding off the sharp corners
alex
 
taking a little off the top
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now i'm ready to put on the up-rights, they will be glued and screwed
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the bread board ends will look like the ones i put on a table a few years back
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the dovetailed splines only go in 3" they are glued to the bread board end and are loose in the table top with the dovetailed groove cut in the top about a 1/4" longer so the table can move -
fitting the ends to the top
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-cutting for the dovetail in the top is a little harry
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to cut the slots in both the top and the ends i first use a straight bit then the dovetail bit-here i use my neat red-necked rigged mortiser to mill the slot in the ends
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beveling the ends on the #3 saw
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rounding off the sharp corners
alex
 
alex, i almost asked earlier what the drawing of the sliding dovetail was for in the 1st post, but i figured you'd let us know and now i see. very nice detail. i think that is the first breadboard end i have seen where the end piece is thicker, i kinda like the look, a little unexpected, but nice

keep it comin, i'm enjoying this
 
alex, i almost asked earlier what the drawing of the sliding dovetail was for in the 1st post, but i figured you'd let us know and now i see. very nice detail. i think that is the first breadboard end i have seen where the end piece is thicker, i kinda like the look, a little unexpected, but nice

keep it comin, i'm enjoying this
chris the dovetail in that drawing was an idea for the top cross pieces to be connected to the stretchers but i doweled them, the bread board end being thicker than the top-i saw krenov do that on one of his pieces-the dovetail spline well i've never seen anyone else do that (i'm sure someone has)-i rarely will make a piece more than once so the design is always changing-maybe it just doesn't fit together the way i thought it would-maybe i clamp the parts together to take a look and it don't look like i thought it would ,so it changes ;case in point the three sapodilla uprights that the top will be screwed to -the ones mark kosmowski found a bit disturbing-those now have been cut down from 9" to 6" i think it makes for better balance,though sam across the alley liked them taller and says i'm just reverting back to being conventional-anyway now instead of four drawers there will be only two - so i'm ready to start the drawers tomorrow.
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my dovetail jig
the table today
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rounding off the sharp corners
alex
 
well it's been awhile since i posted-last post i talked about my designs being flexible and until the piece is done somethings can always change-so i knocked the table top off the saw-horses where i had put it-luckily the bread board-ends were in place - not permanently - so the bread-board end protected the neat little dovetailed grooves cut in the table top corners-not so lucky was the bread board end-it split-anyway the bread board-ends have changed to goncolo-alves and also the drawer front will be goncolo-alves .

new ends-
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the table top has three cocobolo battens screwed to the underside;these have a inserts in both ends with machine threads-
by planing a little here and there off the battens the top will be leveled.

finding level
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planing a little here and there
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the screws are in slotted holes-for when the top has to move around a little-
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before i put the bread-board ends on for good i hollow out the center of the table top end just a little-
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rounding off the sharp corners
alex
 
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