Cutting Board

Pete Simmons

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546
Location
Melbourne, FL
We all know how busy Vaughn has been the last few weeks, Craft Shows - I mean Art Shows, New Compressor, jet setting and more. So I ask him to drop everything and make me 2 special cutting boards in a time frame that I can do some inlay work on them and deliver by May 30 th.

Well he did it! Thanks Vaughn.

These will be going into a very special vacation house. Here is a picture of one with a close up of the Villa.

I suggested the next one be named TED. To many tiny swirls in these inlays.
The thin lines are very difficult to cut and need to be expanded just a little such that you are left with something a little thicker than an ash line when the laser cuts.

All in time that I can deliver tomorrow.

Vaughn made the board. Me and my laser did the inlay work.
 

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ok pete those are sharp!!! now fer the questions. i understand that a lazer can burn away the wood to a predetermined depth and shape,, but how do you make the inlay fit that depression? the burn line must be pretty much uncontrollable in my eyes as for the diffent wood densitys,, can you explain your process without havin to shoot me after you tell me?:D:thumb:
 
Laser work

1. Raster the cutting board with the name.

Raster engraving is just like an ink jet printer except I spit out photons. You can vary power and speed to control depth of cut. I cut down about 0.080 for these inlays. At this point it would be very easy to smear some kinda filler in there. Let dry and sand. But I have not found any fillers that I like. Some shrink when they cure othere bleed into the wood grain. I like to stick to wood inlays. Other laser people do a very shallow raster cut and stick in self stick veneers. I do not like that method either. You cannot sand the very thin veneer and you can always tell it is just stuck on.


2. Vector cut the inlays from thin contrasting wood. For these I used 0.125 walnut.

Vector cutting is much like a CNC router. You set up the outline cut line of the letters and use the laser to cut them out. Kinda like a scrool saw with a 0.005 dia blade. Problems are some over burn on the thin lines. segments larger than about 0.200 are very easy to cut and fit perfect. Thin lines need to be expanded some to compensate for the over burn.

My 35 watt laser cuts 0.125 wood very easily. I can cut up to about 0.375 wood but I get some charing and the cut line is somewhat hourglass shaped. Add lotza $$$ for more laser power and you can easily cut 0.75 wood.
 
That looks sweet, Pete. I only glued and sanded some boards...you did the tricky bits. ;) Glad we were able to get it done in time. (Talk about delivering close to the deadline.) :rolleyes: I'm sure it'll go over well.
 
thanks pete for the info i understand the vector terms we use the same methode in printing,, you give the piece a heavier stroke to make it trap into the next color or in your case be touch big because of over burn..thanks for the explanation..
 
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