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Thread: Poor Man's Infill Plane

  1. #1
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    Poor Man's Infill Plane

    I made this one using a generic #4 plane body, and stuffed it with an infill of my own design. It took me about three months to get it right, and I made the tote portion of the infill over several times. I kept messing around with different tote shapes and angles until I got what is comfortable for me.

    The LN blade and chipbreaker are bedded directly onto the wood at a 52.5 angle - just a bit higher than the 'typical' high angle blade setting.

    The wood is Honduras Mahogany, which was fairly easy to carve. Other than using a bandsaw for the initial rough cutting out, this plane was made using all hand tools - mostly carving knives and chisels, and oh yeah, quite a bit of work with Nicholson #49 and #50 rasps.

    I'm pretty happy with it overall, and as you can see from the shavings, it does a pretty good job, too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails infill 2.jpg   infill 3.jpg   infill-shavings 1.jpg   infill 1.jpg   infill 4.jpg  

    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  2. #2
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    Nice looking design and, judging by the shavings, works great too.

  3. #3
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    That looks sweet, Jim. Very nicely done. Aren't rasps wonderful tools for things like this?
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  4. #4
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    That's COOL Jim!

    Jim,
    Not a bad way to convert otherwise "standard" No4 into something truly special and unique. I love the proof-in-the-pudding shot with the whispy shavings!

    Well done!
    See ya around,
    Dominic

  5. #5
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    Very good Jim I like the shape of the tote very much and it gives the plane a complete different "speedy" look.

    I'm thinking about sort of "Krenovizing" a #3 that I got on Ebay that has both the tote and the know missing but the rest is in pretty good condition.

    By Krenovizing I mean to pretend to infill the plane with wood inserts but instead of making a tote/handle giving it the shape of Krenov's planes. We'll see it is another thing in my "to do " list
    Best regards,
    Toni

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    I also dream of a shop with north light where my hands can be busy, my soul rest and my mind wander...

  6. #6
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    nice job jim thats a sweet looking plane after you customized it
    what are you building today ??

    GRIZZLY

  7. #7
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    Jim,

    Great job. I may have to search out a #4 just for this type conversion. How did you attach the bun and the tote?
    Lee Laird
    Austin TX

  8. #8
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    It' beautiful. But, I have a question: What is an infill plane? e.g. how is it different than other planes?
    I tried Googling the subject but got mixed, and not very useful, results.
    One English site said they were made with bronze and wood. Other sites inferred the difference was that they were made with an eye to beauty plus better precision and performance.
    I find that unlikely. If it were true, then all other planes would give inferior performance.
    Color me puzzled.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Laird View Post
    Jim,

    Great job. I may have to search out a #4 just for this type conversion. How did you attach the bun and the tote?
    SInce the metal sides are too low to allow cross drilling and brass rivets - which I would have preferred - I ended up using a thick, putty-like filled epoxy to attach the wood to the metal.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Fusco View Post
    It' beautiful. But, I have a question: What is an infill plane? e.g. how is it different than other planes? Color me puzzled.
    Frank,
    I don't think there is a 'formal' definition.

    Loosely, an infill has the wood 'stuffed' (fitted) into the metal portion. Many of the English ones have the metal body made from three parts: a sole - sometimes brass, but usually steel; and the two sides - usually brass, but sometimes steel.

    The purists fit the sole and sides together by cutting dovetails, and hammering - or sometimes soldering - them together to form a "U" shaped channel, which is then stuffed with the wood.

    Others are built by milling out a "U" shaped channel form a solid piece, then stuffing it.

    Many (like mine) have no blade adjustment mechanism. Some of the more famous (and more common) commercially made ones, like Norris, have a very fine, double threaded, depth adjuster that also serves as a lateral adjuster.

    Norris and Spiers are two of the most prolific makers, and are therefore the most commonly encountered, but there were many makers in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. A few makers still exist. St. James Bay comes to mind. Shepherd was around for a while, but went OB a couple years ago. Holtey is still around, I think, and there are probably others as well.

    Probably more than you wanted to know, eh?
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

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