Sharpening also depends on the saw. Stihl's have more torque due to their second piston ring but also have lower RPM's. In that case you have to knock your rakers down to get a bigger chip. Don't try that with the Husky saws though. They turn faster but have less torque so a smaller chip is better. They both cut the same, as in going from point a to point b, they just use different methods to achieve that goal.
The problem with all those guides and gizmo's is that it does not let you adjust the angle very good, nor does it let you file down the throat of the tooth so that your chainsaw tooth is taking a bigger bite (required if you run a Stihl and want to make the saw cut fast). Its like anything, it takes practice.
Travis, unfortunately you're misinformed about the piston rings. Many husqvarnas run 2 piston rings; mine does, and I'm under the impression most of the XP series do. Also, my 394XP has more torque than the 066/ms660 which is a comparable displacement saw. Also, there are definitely some Stihls that run just one ring. Each manufacturer makes homeowner models, and pro models. my MS361 has 2 rings, but some of the older stihls, especially top handle saws, have only 1 piston ring. Also, some of the older husqvarna saws, which are torque MONSTERS---like the 2100XP, it has only 1 ring. Many old homelites had 1 ring. Sounds like someone used that as a sales gimmick. Don't get me wrong. I love my Stihls, but I like my big Husqvarna too.
Also, in regards to filing, its funny that you mention filing the gullet of the chain; I use my jig once in a while, or even hand file, because the grinder I have does leave that annoying hump that will get in the way of taking a big chip. Its a PITA on a long chain. Every 3-4 sharpenings I have to hand file the hump away. People who run hotsaws will also file the back end of the cutter, so that the chip ejects the cutter as fast and as smooth as it went in. Talk about some powerful saws! Dangerous stuff. For most people, unless you really know what you're doing, you should follow the sharpening angles that the chain came with, as modifying them can change the way the saw handles in the cut. If I bury a 32" bar in wood while running a ripping chain, (filed at 15deg. or less--I personally run 5 deg. for smooth slabs), it will potentially grab and kick much more than a 30-35deg. chain for "crosscutting", no matter whether it is flat filed, semichisel, chisel, square ground, or whatever. Just be careful. Wear your kevlar chaps and steel toed boots.