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Thread: DADO blades for dummies

  1. #1
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    DADO blades for dummies

    Having overcome most of my fear of power tools, and having knocked out 10 out of the 12 chairs I needed to make, I decided its time to unwrap the dado blades and see if I can figure them out.
    After reading extensively, the instructions, which were almost non existant, I had to find the ryobi table saw booklet and figure out how to attach them.
    Easy for you guys, not easy for someone who is mechanically challenged, and is working on the fear of machinery with blades.
    I didnt know there were 2 spacers on the arbor of the ts.
    I actually installed them easily enough, and decided I want to get working next week on some drawers for my work area, cause I cant take the hand tools constantly in my way, all over the bench. I figured one large drawer under the work bench will hold all the wrenchs, screwdrivers, hammers, pliers, etc...and a few pull out drawers in the cabinets will be very helpful in organizing my hardware.

    I tried my best to make the easiest fingerjoint jig known to mankind.
    Ofcourse, within 2 minutes, while using my little trim saw, I gave myself a nice hit.
    It woke me up, and I was a bit more careful.(it was nothing compared to when I cleaned the varnish brushes later on and spilled some thinner into the cut)
    Grabbed some scrap plywood not even the same size exactly, and decided to give it a shot, one adjustment on the height of the blade and I was satisfied with the result.

    I dont know how I lived for so long with a TS and didnt use a set of dado blades.
    I just have to remember the jig allows the blade to pass through it and theres an open blade near my hands......almost didnt realize this the first pass through.

    Thought I take a picture of the cut, just for fun.

    If anyone has a better idea for a finger joint jig that they think I can handle, point me in the right direction.
    btw, Id love to use a zero clearance for the dado set, but the plate is only liek1/16th of ainch thick where it attaches to the saw,, and I cant find any for the ryobi ts, is there a material 1/16th that I might be able to cut?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tiki 306 (Medium).jpg   Tiki 305 (Medium).jpg   Tiki 307 (Medium).jpg  
    Last edited by allen levine; 06-19-2008 at 10:54 PM.

  2. #2
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    alot of my enthusiasm stems from reading this board.
    I just read about dado's and how helpful and easy they are, and it convinced me.
    Same with a router table.

    I wont be turning pens anytime soon, but each new item I buy just makes my life that much easier, and opens up alot of new paths for me to try new things.

    Im sorry if my posting of such simple things wastes space, its very exciting for me, an old man in my 50s, to actually get excited over a tool or a new set of blades.

  3. #3
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    Allen,

    Make your own zero clearance insert for your table saw. DO IT NOW!

    I'm serious. You must do it. Do not make another cut without an insert, and with a dado blade mounted. Those things are scary enough with an insert, without one, they're deadly.

    I promise to look for finger joint jig plans, but ONLY if you promise to make that insert. You're too promising a woodworker to have you losing fingers.

    Seriously!

    Thanks,

    Bill

  4. #4
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    Allen,

    I can't tell from the pictures what brand of saw you're using? Is it a ryobi? What's the model?

    Thanks,

    Bill

  5. #5
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    Allen,

    http://www.ptreeusa.com/zero_clearance.htm

    It looks like the ryobi is the same as the ridgid:

    http://www.amazon.com/ACC-RIDGID-DAD.../dp/B000P8LKBU , but it's cheaper and better at peachtree. or...

    You can use your existing one as a model:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8AQVx8M50E

    http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...arance-insert/

    http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip020419sn.html

    Do NOT put this off. I walked away from my last table saw over exactly this issue, and was just plain lucky I didn't walk away spurting blood!

    Thanks,

    Bill

  6. #6
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    just spent 2 hours cleaning up everything, shutting down the shop and letting it become a garage again till sometime late next week.
    Im going to go measure the blade insert, and order 2, one for the regular blade, and one for the dado set.
    The plate I have now is sheet metal/steel? very thin, and it mounts at very thin points.
    Ill give it a go before I start making finger joints for the drawers.

  7. #7
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    Allen,
    another idea, which you might want to consider, if you can't make/fit an insert to fit the saw, would be a sacrificial table/cover for your saw. Take a sheet of hardboard and clamp or tape it down with double sided tape, raise blade through it and you've got a ZCI that covers that gap. Trim the board so your miter guage would fit.

    darn, the more I think of it, the more I agree you need to make a ZCI that mounts where your stock unit goes.
    -Ned

  8. #8
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    ryobi is closed already, I just called.
    They make a dado plate, but I might as well go for both zero clearance with both dado and single blade.its ryobi BTS20R-1

    I just cant seem to find anywhere that has a plate 1/16th thickness.

    I cant run my shopvac that I use to collect dust, and without the plate, the sawdust is ridiculous.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tiki 310 (Medium).jpg  
    Last edited by allen levine; 06-19-2008 at 10:57 PM.

  9. #9
    Allen,

    Take heed of Bill's warning! I was lucky - I still have my fingers, though two are not quite in OEM condition.
    I was making picture frames from some rock hard maple - making the final pass on depth, last piece. Luckily I was letting off pressure to grab a push stick when the wood shattered and dropped into the gap with my hand following into the blade. Got the ring and middle finger.
    Unfortunately, it was preventable and a stupid mistake. Ned's suggestion is a good one if you can't find an appropriate insert.

    Otherwise, have fun with the new capabilities!
    Good luck,
    Wes

  10. #10
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    I cant calibrate it, I dont own anything that precise, but its either 2 or 3 /32nd, thick, and Ive only found one 3/32 that fits a different machine, but if I can get some of that material, I can attempt to cut it down to size.

    Im thinking I could pick up some polymer of plastic 1/16th thick somewhere, maybe a sheet of a lucite type, or something stronger, and figure out a way to trim it down. I dont have a router table, but Ill find someone who might be able to help me.
    If it was just a 1/4inch thick, it would make life easy.

    Ive grown attached to my fingers, or should I say they have grown attached to me, and Id prefer to keep all of them.
    Last edited by allen levine; 06-20-2008 at 02:47 AM.

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