TLC, TS version

Ned Bulken

Member
Messages
5,529
Location
Lakeport NY and/or the nearest hotel
Well,
no pics cause I'm embarassed to admit it, but my TS did not fare the off season well. I've got to go pick up some T-9 this week, along with some 4-ought steel wool. This isn't surprising, just unfortunate. I thought I had it pretty well sealed up, but evidently not. OH well, time for some TLC.

Any other products that would help me de-rust the cast iron top?
 
Yep coke, believe it or not, we had an old cast iron papercutter at work that we refurbished for display in our lobby, coke cut the rust on that at least, give it a try, at least its cheep.
 
Ned, I think it's the phosphoric acid in the Coke that does the rust removal.

On rusted flat surfaces, I've had pretty good luck using a green Scotch Brite on a random orbital sander, with a little WD-40 to speed things along. The Scotch Brite sticks just fine to the hook & loop on the ROS.
 
My personal favorite is Green Scotch brite pad, rubber sanding block and Kerosene or Mineral Spirits. some elbow grease and before you know it, after you clean up the mess, there is a perfectly good looking top. Also if it is minor rust I have taken a ROS and a pad of Scotbrite and applied allitle gentile rubbing via Elec. Power in lieu of elbow grease. Have been known to use a lottle mineral spirits as well with the ROS. :thumb:
 
Boeshield's Rust Remover is phosporic acid....it's cheaper to buy straight phosphoric acid if you can find it. It works well for very rusted surfaces. WD-40 and 150 grit sandpaper are fine for light rust.
 
T-9 has never really done much for me that paste wax won't. Boeshield's Rust Free works great for me though. It's an acid so read the directions. It will even pull out those 'shadows' you thought were there for good.
 
Ned,
If you've got a heavy coat of rust, use a single edge razor blade. It takes most of it off and doesn't gouge the surface like you might think. I used this technique on a free BS table that was left outside for years. When done with the fine scotchbrite pad, you could still see the original grind marks.

Just look at this experience as the "first scratch" on a new car. Once that's done now, you can move onto enjoying the TS without the worry.

Good luck ,

Wes
 
Ned,

I have no personal experience, but David Eisan over on SMC has reported about using a product called "Top Saver" to polish rust from Cast Iron. Here is the thread. (with photos)

...art


I've used WD40 and steel wool for years and it works pretty good. But I bought my first bottle of that Empire Topsaver a while back and trust me - Its Better.
 
WD-40 with stainless steel scrubbing pad works for me. Johnsons paste wax as a protectant.
Naval jelly and phosphoric acid have always darkened the steel/iron when I used it, much like gun blueing. I do not like for tools.
 
Couple of years ago the kitchen sink overflowed (long nasty story) but it also dripped down into my shop and on to a joiner. Was several days before I saw it. :eek:

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Here is an example of what a green scotchbrite, sanding block, & Kerosene can do in about 5 minutes.
 
top saver, scotch brite pad and ROS.

Never thought about the phosphoric acid.... I have about 5 gallons of the stuff at work.

joe
 
top saver, scotch brite pad and ROS.

Never thought about the phosphoric acid.... I have about 5 gallons of the stuff at work.

joe

I know it is used as a rust remover. But, it is also an ingredient in many bluing solutions. Depending on the steel/iron it is applied to, you may get a darkening. Test a small area first. But, then, you might like having blued tool surfaces. ;)
 
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