Tapering jig

Hey Warren,
Here's my tapering jig. There was an article in the other FWW (the magazine) a couple years ago that showed how. The basics are a platform with a slider on the bottom that fits into your miter slot, a fence/stop at the rear to hold the leg, and another fence at the taper angle. You also need some way to clamp the workpiece to the two fences. If this is a one shot need, I would just glue/screw everything together at the desired angle and screw on one of those lever clamps.

The good thing about this jig is that your fingers are far away from the action:D :rolleyes:

PM me if you are interested and have questions.
 

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hey jesse was you takin nap when you attached that pic its 90 degrees off:wave:

another idea would be to have the bottom staionary and the top move to the desired angle i saw it in a popular wood working mag dont have a pic it kinda worked like a zero cleance insert thtought pater you setup the parent peice to be cut off as it went along the fence then you could use that edge as aguid fo rthe desired angle. with a clamp sytem the parent piece was 1/2 ply witha solid backer piece and then pivoting side piece.
 
I did the same thing as Don, was going to make one, and got almost the same one for $5.

FWIW, I have started using the jointer to do them more than the tablesaw. If I were going to make a jig, Jesse's is the way to go.
 
Thank you all!

I really appreciate the suggestions. I have one of the Rockler jigs and have been 'feared to use it. Just doesn't seem to instill confidence, but it might just be me.

I think I will go with a modification of FWW's jig.

Thanks again!
Warren
 
warren, whenever i`ve needed to taper on the tablesaw i`ve just used a sacrificial piece of mdf with stops shot to it and a couple of clamps.....throw away when done.....tod
 
I have always intended to build a jig similar to the Rockler's shown but just never have. Last ones I cut I freehanded on the bandsaw and then hand planed to the line.

I had to make repeat cuts for some taper columns so I made a simple sled like Tod spoke of. I had to make a Right and Left handed one. I just used some Luann I had and laid it out on there. Then just added some stop blocks to hold the blanks in place.
 
I've used some fairly simple homemade jigs, but what was the most satisfying was what Jeff said. Bandsaw near and finish with my No. 5. That was a pleasure.

No disrespect to that fine jig intended.
Ken
 
This is a little late but I thought I would post it for the sake of the archives. I needed a taper jig that did three things my current one did not.

1. hold the piece.
2. be able to do four sided taper
3. be able to do a taper with the top of leg facing me or away from me.

My current jig is one of the V-style jigs that is hinged on one end. I never liked it because it couldn't do the above. Most of all my fingers were always too close for comfort. So I made a jig from FWW realizing later that Jesse already mentioned it. In the article there is also an attachment brace for holding the end of the leg supported in the air so you can do a four sided taper. A through nail sticks into the end of the leg supporting it in the air. You can see the brace in the third pic.
 

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Alex,

It wasn't to late for me. Thanks! I don't have FWW magazines to find the plan but I did find this video to see how it works. http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt115.asp
I tried to save the video but their site would not let me.

From the video and looking at your pictures I can wing the rest---I think. If you have a left tilt saw should it be made to operate on the left side of the blade or does it not matter. I do not know if you would ever need to make a taper/angled cut or not.

Allen
 
Allen,

Left tilt or right tilt it doesn't matter. The sled is made oversize and then trimmed to size. I don't know if you would want to tilt the blade though as it would make the edge of the sled angled as well. If you want to make the jig though send me an e-mail and I can send you a blow-up picture with dimensions.
 
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